So what is the consensus: Zipp 1080 Front and Sub 9 Disc (@about $2,800) v HED 3 spoke and disc (about $1,800) - Recreational week ender looking to get all I can out of my bike splits
.
are you a 15mph, 20mph, 25mph, or 30mph kinda guy during your tris?
is there any wind where you race?
Neither: 808 front and 900 disc.
I live in South Georgia - Mostly flat coastal races - My best performances were 22.5 mph avg at Steelhead 70.3 and a short sprint average of 23.8 mph - I have been racing on a set of 404 clinchers for the past 2 years and now want to sell them and try a new toy
.
Why 808 v 1080?
Keep the 404s and buy a used disc off the ST classifieds. The 404 is a great all-around wheel of all conditions.
Hmmm, those are decent average speeds and suggest that you might be able to exploit the additional aero benefits of a rear disc and a deeper front. But coming off Zipp 404s you shouldn’t expect any tremendous difference, since the 404s are very fast wheels already… I would spend the money on something else!
That is decent speed, I would go with the 1080 or similar (808, Hed Jet90 etc) over the H3 in that case
play with the yaw angle calculator on HED’s website and have a look at their aero data to help decide
.
All the wheels mentioned are fast aero and light. The H-3 a very durable wheel. The most durable wheel arrives at the event true and ready to use.
Try www.bicycleDoctorUSA.com for a good price on the H-3 wheels during the winter sale, e-mail for the sale list.
You do realize you are talking about seconds saved, not minutes saved with that switch, right?
Steve
The 808 is lighter and not as susceptible to cross-winds.
I am a 170lb rider with very good to excellent bike handling skills. My experience is that the 808 front is deep enough to be a handful at times (unprotected stretches of road in slight wind and at speeds of 25mph+). In 10-15mph winds it is unstable at speeds over 30mph; I nearly got blown off the road by a gust during a fast descent this past fall. I had to get out of my aero position, sit up, and slow down, nullifying any aero advantages of the wheel. So 1080 is definitely not for me, or at least not until I am rich enough to buy it for the 1 or 2 days of racing per year when the air is perfectly still.
If you’re significantly lighter than me, the 606 combo may be the best (as one of the previous posters suggested).
That is decent speed, I would go with the 1080 or similar (808, Hed Jet90 etc) over the H3 in that case
play with the yaw angle calculator on HED’s website and have a look at their aero data to help decide
The trick here is to identify the best average yaw angle to use in the calculations because you generally don’t know ahead of time what courses and what wind conditions you’ll be racing in…you buy one very expensive pair of racing wheels and can’t buy them optimized for any particular race…
The idea did strike me once to go to the NOAA site (http://www.noaa.gov/) and try to get the average wind speeds in your area throughout the racing months…then assume a randomized wind direction and figure in your average speed and therefore the average wind-speed and yaw angle…
Even if this were done just once for all of America it would be helpful because it would suggest an industry standard yaw angle that could be used for comparing wheels/bikes.
Yeah, ultimately if you are real slow - use an H3
if you are real fast - use a deep spoked wheel
if you are medium, flip a coin
heh
That is decent speed, I would go with the 1080 or similar (808, Hed Jet90 etc) over the H3 in that case
play with the yaw angle calculator on HED’s website and have a look at their aero data to help decide
The trick here is to identify the best average yaw angle to use in the calculations because you generally don’t know ahead of time what courses and what wind conditions you’ll be racing in…you buy one very expensive pair of racing wheels and can’t buy them optimized for any particular race…
The idea did strike me once to go to the NOAA site (http://www.noaa.gov/) and try to get the average wind speeds in your area throughout the racing months…then assume a randomized wind direction and figure in your average speed and therefore the average wind-speed and yaw angle…
Even if this were done just once for all of America it would be helpful because it would suggest an industry standard yaw angle that could be used for comparing wheels/bikes.
Thanks for the feedback. I am about 180 lbs 6’4" when I am at my fighting weight and rarely find myself in excess of 30 mph. I realize this will only mean seconds - perhaps the way to go is the disc with what I have and see what difference it makes. Then the issue is whether the Sub 9 Disc is really worth it over the regular disc as the sub 9 is a tubular only meaning I would need to switch from clincher and replace the front wheel
My guess is the sub 9 would not be worth any additional cost over a regular disc.
And overall, no wheel change will help you more than switching to an aero helmet…have one yet?
You might be able to get those extra seconds just by putting a wheelcover on your 404s. Not as sexy as a disk, but…
So what is the consensus: Zipp 1080 Front and Sub 9 Disc (@about $2,800) v HED 3 spoke and disc (about $1,800) - Recreational week ender looking to get all I can out of my bike splits
Powermeter and a coach…
get the zipp clincher disc call it a day. the zipp clincher disc has a bulge too, albeit a smaller one. or else get a wheelcover for your rear 404. The weight difference will be about 300g max between a zipp clincher disc and a 404 clincher plus cover. At your size that should not even be a concern.
And overall, no wheel change will help you more than switching to an aero helmet…have one yet?
Only if you can wear one properly…and I would gander a guess that about 80% or so of the ones I see on MOP’ers are not properly worn.
And overall, no wheel change will help you more than switching to an aero helmet…have one yet?
Only if you can wear one properly…and I would gander a guess that about 80% or so of the ones I see on MOP’ers are not properly worn.
You are right. In fact I believe that a standard helmet is more aero when the head is down in swimming position than an aero helmet is in any position. I’m actually going to consciously think about keeping my head down this year in the situations where it’s safe…faster and less painful on the neck. Sounds like a win-win as long as I don’t veer off course or hit anything. 