I have the dual sides Stages on my frame (Size XL) on 165 cranks, with 5mm of clearance between the sensor housing and the frame. Plenty of room.
Can anyone explain to this idiot what accounts for the roughly $5,000 difference between the SLR9 and SLR6? From what I understand, the frames are identical so itās just the parts. Looking at the specs, Iām not sure I see $5,000 more in parts on the SLR9 AXS than the SLR6.
Itās probably a lot more economical to buy a frameset and di2 components separately (someone on TR just built up di2 12 speed for 1400 ish) and get bars and seatpost.
$5000 frame *a guy on eBay is selling M and L frames for $3000 OBO and he seems legit.
So, 3k frame +$1500 group+ $1500 bars and seatpost = $6k.
I agree with you. No way DA is worth that much more, especially if frame is same carbon level.
A little late to the discussion, but the wheelset between the 6 and 9 is also different. If buying alone, the sets differ in price by 1300-1500 US I believe.
Anyone heard of trek coming out with some sort of adapter for these bars yet ? They are comfy enough just miles apart. My only gripe with it all. Would love to put the profile design 43 bars on these bad boys.
No word from Trek on an adapter for round poles. But PLENTY of previous posts on how to make it work with 3rd party products.
Anyone heard of trek coming out with some sort of adapter for these bars yet ? They are comfy enough just miles apart. My only gripe with it all. Would love to put the profile design 43 bars on these bad boys.
Nothing. Seems like trek is ignoring us.
No word from Trek on an adapter for round poles. But PLENTY of previous posts on how to make it work with 3rd party products.
True, I was just hoping for something a bit cheaper, more universal perhaps and something less complicated.
Is Mitch even around anymore ?
Got done with this one a few weeks ago. Now to dial in the fit a bit more after an extended time away my old fit definitely needs some work.
Your build looks great! I havenĆ¢ā¬ā¢t seen any other builds using standard bottle cages. Do you remember what bolt sizes were required? The speed bottle uses M5. But the upper DT and seat tube mounts are smaller diameter. M4 are too big. Were these M3? Thanks for any info!
I just put standard cages in mine too. Regular m5 screws. Try again carefully, maybe the first threads are tight or dirty or have a small burr?
I just put standard cages in mine too. Regular m5 screws. Try again carefully, maybe the first threads are tight or dirty or have a small burr?
Thank you for the info. IĆ¢ā¬ā¢m remote directing my wife on the cage install as sheĆ¢ā¬ā¢s training in warmer surroundings ATM. IĆ¢ā¬ā¢ll have to be careful having her force it too much.
I have a 2023 Speed Concept; love it! I am sure if I dig deep I might find it in the 51 pages, but hoping for a quicker answer; how do you ship your speed concept? Do you own a box (what brand) or do you use a company (which one.). I am planning to go from midwest to IMTX next year and looking for options.
How do you have the tubes and Co2 secured in the downtube storage area? Can you send pics of that?
I shipped mine in an Evoc Road Bike Pro bag, no dismantling of the bike required, didnāt even need to lower the seat. The bag has a soft bottom half with reinforcements and hard plastic top half. I used it for one flight that was less than two hours in duration and the hard plastic on the top completely shattered. I can only imagine how the baggage handlers managed to do that but the bike was safe!
Iāll never buy that bag again though, Evoc were awful to deal with and basically told me to pound sand, worst customer service Iāve ever experienced. The person I dealt with was rude and arrogant.
I just ordered a Bike Box Alan, pricey but from what I hear are very protective and durable. They are somewhat big and heavier though so some airlines may have issues with them.
In general (not SC specific) Iāve used Tri Bike Transport service a few times in the last decade, not cheap but usually quite convenient.
I also used the Bike Box Alan Easy Fit - with my Gen 2 SC medium and my aerobar setup, I could leave the front end alone. Just had to remove pedals and wheels. Box is huge (quite wide)
For the Gen 3 SC, travelling in a traditional box, look 2/3 down this page from Trek for how to remove the handlebar if neededā¦
https://www.trekbikes.com/au/en_AU/speed-concept-fit-travel/
Hope this helps!
I stuff one spare tube all the way down toward the bottom bracket, I slide one CO2 plus 2 tire levers rubber banded to another CO2 up the down-tube, then a second spare tube sits right below the access cover. Nothing is āsecuredā, but Iāve yet to hear a rattle.
-Scott
Got my new 2023 SC, and I have a weird issue.
Taking the back wheel On and Off does NOT seem right - it interferes bad with the top pulley wheel due to clearance issue
What am I missing, or is this a frame/derailleur hanger design issue (or manufacturing issue on a component)?
Details:
- Medium frame
- Shimano 12 speed (Ultegra derailleur)
- Standard Pro 51 Bontrager wheel, 25 mm Conti 5000 tire
I am going into the smallest cog in the back.
At first the wheel comes out niceā¦ Derailleur swings back smoothly till it reaches the end stop.
but you reach a point where the small cog with the chain binds completely to pass the top pulley wheel. Puts pressure on the derailleur (it canāt swing back further, hard stop) and it starts deflecting.
On the front, the 25 mm tire is jammed in the widest part of the opening (problem would be worse with a 28mm tire!)
Only way to remove is put more force, bends the derailleur assembly and what it is attached too slightly then it releasesā¦
Note: Normally I do hold the read derailleur w one hand, rotating it all the way back too to help, but in below picture I needed a hand to take the picture - still the RD is rotated as far back as it will, hard stop.
But in this process, the inside of the derailleur cage also gets stuck between 2 cogs, scratching it (paint all scratched up from taking the wheel off 2-3 times only!);
I checked the derailleur hanger - it had a little of play (maybe from taking the wheel OFF and On a couple of times!); I tightened again (and found out the 2 mini screws had the hex stripped or about toā¦
The problem would be avoided (or be less) if the Shimano bracket was not resting on the stopper of the hanger (green box above) and instead tightened while being rotated back a bit (yellow arrow) but checking the Shimano manual - and common sense) - the correct way to install is resting on the stop of the hanger.
Only other way I see, is deflating the tire every time - but if working with tubeless, I assuming that replacing the air each time would make the sealant go bad a lot quickerā¦ I originally thought I would run this bike w 28mm on the rear, at least in training - especially with the 23mm internal width stock wheels - but the situation above alone is a reason to not go higher than 23mm tires.
What am I misssing? Or am I not the only one? Canāt imagine it is supposed to be like that. I do not have this issue on my older 11 speed Madone with 8000 RD.
Hoping itās something stupidā¦
Got my new 2023 SC, and I have a weird issue.
Taking the back wheel On and Off does NOT seem right - it interferes bad with the top pulley wheel due to clearance issue
What am I missing, or is this a frame/derailleur hanger design issue (or manufacturing issue on a component)?
Details:
- Medium frame
- Shimano 12 speed (Ultegra derailleur)
- Standard Pro 51 Bontrager wheel, 25 mm Conti 5000 tire
I am going into the smallest cog in the back.
At first the wheel comes out niceā¦ Derailleur swings back smoothly till it reaches the end stop.
but you reach a point where the small cog with the chain binds completely to pass the top pulley wheel. Puts pressure on the derailleur (it canāt swing back further, hard stop) and it starts deflecting.
On the front, the 25 mm tire is jammed in the widest part of the opening (problem would be worse with a 28mm tire!)
Only way to remove is put more force, bends the derailleur assembly and what it is attached too slightly then it releasesā¦
But in this process, the inside of the derailleur cage also gets stuck between 2 cogs, scratching it (paint all scratched up from taking the wheel off 2-3 times only!);
I checked the derailleur hanger - it had a little of play (maybe from taking the wheel OFF and On a couple of times!); I tightened again (and found out the 2 mini screws had the hex stripped or about toā¦
The problem would be avoided (or less) if the Shimano bracket was not resting on the stopper of the hanger (green box above) and instead tightened while being rotated back a bit (yellow arrow) but checking the Shimano manual - and common sense) - the correct way to install is resting on the stop of the hanger.
Only other way I see, is deflating the tire every time - but if working with tubeless, I assuming that replacing the air each time would make the sealant go bad a lot quickerā¦
What am I misssing? Or am I not the only one? Canāt imagine it is supposed to be like that. I do not have this issue on my older 11 speed Madone with 8000 RD.
Hoping itās something stupidā¦
Check the B-Screw setting and pulley clearance? My wifeĆ¢ā¬ā¢s came from the shop without enough tension. Still have issues threading in the rear thru-axle which is something I havenĆ¢ā¬ā¢t run across before.
I have alignment issues on that rear dropout with screwing the rear thru axle in, too! ItĆ¢ā¬ā¢s pretty frustrating.
The B-screw alignment screw affects how far forward the derailleur can come (so affects the range of rotation in the other direction).
When the derailleur swings back āout of the wayā the end stop is given by the Shimano bracket that is required when the bike does not have a direct-mount hangerā¦
is the clearance just on the sides or do you have clearance on the downtube? On my current bike I can ride a 28mm front with fork side/top clearance but due do to the increase ādepthā of bigger tire the tire rubs on the on the downtube on certain road conditions.
thanks.
Well, for reference if someone else read the threads and have an issue with clearance removing the rear wheel such as my post aboveā¦
- Trek support was not useful
- Interestingly enough, the part number for the derailleur hanger says āimproved version for clearance with 12 speed drivetrainsā - but clearly the change was not large enough on some frames
I talked to a mechanic. He says heās seen that several times with the newer 12 speed drivetrains. Only 2 solutions, neither elegant:
-
When you remove the rear wheel, first losen up the screw holding the RD on the hanger, rotate the RD back a bit, then tighten again. Then proceed w normal removal, when re-installed, set back the RD in correct position. Actually not bad to do, only takes less than a minute more. Just a habit to take (must not forget to put back at the last step though!)
-
Or grind the Shimano knuckle a bit, to allow for more rotation range.(
I ended up grinding the knuckle a bit on the bench grinder and putting a layer of black spray paint back on it afterwards. I have good clearance now.
For the alignment of the skewer, see my next postā¦