Bought the P1 alittle over a month ago, was looking at a couple differnt bikes but seattled on the P1. As far as I can tell right now, I am not any slower on this rig then on my last bike(TTX). I have 13cm of drop with the new pads or 14.5 with original PD pads. I do feel I am in a more agressive position now. I only have had acouple rides outside but they have felt good. I did all the wrenching myself.
Cervelo P1 54cm
VT alum base bar (modified) with hed clip on, oval single bend alum extension and PD cups with ceegee pads. I cut the basebar down, going down the little hills around St. Louis didnt make me want to start praying.
Syntace F99 stem 90mm
Sram alum brake calipers
Shimano r700 172.5 with time pedals
Dura-ace derailers
Wired powertap laced into 30mm Velocity deep V with wheel cover
Pro-lite 50mm front wheel, both wheels have mich pr3 with latex tubes
I cleaned up the wireing to try to get all the free speed I can. Moved the cpu to between my extensions so when Im tucked down I wont have to move my head to see my power numbers. Drilled new holes in the bonte aero bottle cage to bring it closer to the frame. My “A” race is a 4/40/4 duathlon, I will have both bottles otherwise when racing I will take the cages off.
**“EDIT” **I need to give credit to a few people on ST for build ideas. Mostly ideas from the **PIC request: Tricked out Cervelo P2-SL **thread. Especially ShowPony, Bman, and Tom. A(aero brakes).
Also I used a Cannon 40D to take the pictures, what a sweet camera!
Nice work! I have some similar upgrades on my P1 (R700, wired PT, different stem, new saddle) as well. Still need to order a wheel cover and watching for a cheaper used front race wheel.
Couple of questions:
I have been meaning to clean up all the extra cable in front. How did you shorten the cable housings? Did you pull the cables out of the frame and recut the housing?
Where are you running your PT wire? Did you run through the frame? Right now I have it up the seat stay and along to top of the top tube.
Sweet ride! I’m running almost the exact same setup but with a hed 3 up front. I really like how you have the power display in front of the bottle…what exactly is it mounted to and how secure does it feel up there?
Nice work! I have some similar upgrades on my P1 (R700, wired PT, different stem, new saddle) as well. Still need to order a wheel cover and watching for a cheaper used front race wheel.
Couple of questions:
I have been meaning to clean up all the extra cable in front. How did you shorten the cable housings? Did you pull the cables out of the frame and recut the housing?
Where are you running your PT wire? Did you run through the frame? Right now I have it up the seat stay and along to top of the top tube.
I had a cobb saddle but my hips are to narrow, started chaffing me. I watched ebay for 3 weeks, found the pro light for 200 bucks. 60mm hed/sram/flashpoint/hed 3’s were going for over 500. Didnt think it was worth it right now for me.
Answers
I bought the park tool cable cutter tool. Made cutting them ahole lot easier. I took out the cables since I was changing brakes and derailers, then cut them. Took hour or two. For the cabling and aero extensions I drilled new holes in the extensions closer to the base bar so less cabling was exposed. The only cable I see from the front is the rear brake cable which isnt much.
I decided to run my cable underneath the trailing edge of the frame. Used red electrical tape to hide the cable from the wind. Wrapped the cabble around the houseing then used tape around the aero bar again. I thought about going through the frame, but I havnt come up with a easy way to do it without voiding the warrenty. I thought about up the seat stay, but this way seems to hide it very well.
I’m running a Cobb V-flow Max on mine and love it.
OK, thanks. Not sure I want to drill any more holes in the frame, either, for the PT wire. I have the cable cutters (I think mine might be Pedro, but same diff). I’ll probably end up pulling the cables and rethreading. Any issues with getting the cables through the frame?
How did you mount the Cycleops computer in between your extensions? I have been trying to figure out a way to mount my Garmin 500 like the way you have it.
Very nice. Is there a way to get the PT wires into the same holes as the cables? Can you cut a slit in the cable housing and then thread the PT wire through?
Non-drive side. I guess if I wanted it prettier I could switch to black housing. Have a new wired mount that I need to pick up from the LBS then I will clean the tape up a bit more.
Its a simple profile design computer mount. Installation is a breeze. It is sturdy, I have the cpu zipp ties alittle loose so I can move the cup display a bit until I get it where I want it. We have some not so nice country roads and the vibration doesnt move it. It comes in short or long depending how far away you like your extensions
I think you could modify it. You would have to splice the wire, then re attach it. That would probably be a rainy day project. I am picking up a new wired mount after being on order for a month. Rappster had a pic of his old ttx that had that done to it.
