Almost complete I still need to route the PT cables internally, get a front race wheel, cut and put the carbonfiber seatpost on it, and add small decal.
I really love how it rides. Yes, With the PT, CH aero cover, and the Rotors it is not a light bike. But I’m so much more aerodynamic than on my old tri bike that was way to big for me. It feels very fast to me and I am so excited. Over the next couple of weeks and month I’ll work on the position. I definitely have to move the saddle more foreward. Maybe lower the front another couple of centimeters, but I will have to see with the powermeter if that will be worth it.
edit. I also want to thank everyone that helped me when I had trouble with the internal cable routing. Also a big thank you to Rich at wheelbuilder.com for trimming the CH Aero covers and making them fit the Powertap SL and the velocity deep V rim.
I really like the white P3, but it wasn’t me that had it painted. One night I couldn’t fall asleep and deep inside of me something told me to go on the internet and look for a used P3, so I did. I found this frameset for a killer deal!. It used to be yellow and got repainted by Spectrum in Colorado.
How fast are you lookin’ to go on this thing over a flat 40K? From what I remember we have pretty similar wattage outputs, only I’ve never ridden a TT bike.
How did/will you end up routing the PT wires internally? I’d love to hide them away in my Klein as well.
I didn’t do the internal calbe routing on the P3 yet. But here’s the plan: You will have to cut the PT sensor cable (don’t know about the cadence sensor cable yet, because it is kind of narrow at the plug. maybe it is small enough in diameter.). The PT sensor cable consists of two wires. I got that information from Cycleops. So that shouldn’t be a problem to put back together. You will have to cut it in order to draw the cable through the hole. I have those internal cable stoppers on the P3. Already drilled a hole in it, but that was before I set up the shifting cable. Unfortunately, most of the hole is now covered by the shifting cable stopper. So I will have to drill again. And no, I wouldn’t drill into the frame. Just wish that bikes with internal cable routing would have another cable entry/exit. This wouldn’t hurt much from an aerodynamic perspective, definitely less than having to run a computer cable outside the frame. I just hate to have a beautiful internal cable job ruined by an exterior running computer cable (or two…). So that’s the plan. I’m only thinking of where to cut the PT cable.
How fast am I looking to go on that thing? As fast as I possibly can for a TT, fast BUT conservative for tris I just rode 92km today and it felt really fast to me, much faster than I could go on my old TT bike. For a 40km TT I don’t know. It’s difficult to say, but it seems like I need 290-300W in order to hold 40km/h on the flat. I could be wrong because it is difficult to ride on a completely flat surface without wind. Don’t have enough data yet, so this is just an estimate.
I still need to route the PT cables internally, get a front race wheel, cut and put the carbonfiber seatpost on it, and add small decal.