Mountain bike shock question

Triathlon Forum
1

I’m hoping that some mtn bike types can chime in on this question.

I’m a (very) recreational rider with an older GT Tequesta that I’ve had for a while. I still have the original fork (rock shox Indy xc) which seems to be getting a little beat up. Performance Bike has a rock shox recon on sale for $170 that would fit the steerer tube, but would this be an ok replacement fork for my use? I plan to continue to ride recreationally and “may” try some races in 2012. I’m not looking to become a world champ … Simply going to look at some races for fun (Xterra, etc.).

Thanks in advance for any input.

Drn92

2

The Recon is a pretty decent fork. Not the best out there, but far from the worst.

That is a pretty good price for that fork.

3

As long as the travel is the same as your old one it should not be any problem. If the travel is more then geometry may impact ride quality and handling. If it’s only 10mm or so, not a big deal (100 vs 110) but over 20 it may cause a bit of twitchy handling or mushy ride.

4

That is what I am worried about. I think the forks I have are either 50mm or 63mm of travel and the Recon’s are 100mm.

Thanks, drn92

5

Yeah, I think 63 was the std back then, so the most I’d go is an 80, and those are not plentiful at this point…

6

I took some quick measurements. My current fork has some boots that cover approx 4.25" of “travel” potential. I cannot believe that all of that is for travel, but if 3" is travel then I have an 80mm fork. I think I’ll measure the length from the axle to the crown and if it is less than an inch or so give them a try.

Drn92

7

I don’t believe the Indy XC was ever available in a 80mm version. Judy’s were, but not Indy’s, IIRC.

8

Going longer will just slacken things up a bit. Worst case the handling will feel a little off, but you’ll still have a slacker head angle and more pedal clearance. Go for it, ride it until you get a new mtb.

9

I’d also talk to an LBS that knows suspension well. Most of them can regrease/replace the seals/rebuild it (most roadie shops don’t have this expertise in house).

Should be significantly cheaper than buying a new fork, assuming they can do it in-house and the replacement parts can still be purchased.

10

I think the recon would be nearly perfect for a rec’ or somewhat serious rider. The more serious the rider the more likely I am to suggest they get an air fork, I think the responsiveness and absorption is much higher on those. 100mm of travel is fairly standard for xc riding, 80mm might be ideal depending on what you’re riding on, if it’s a hard tail go 100mm if it’s fs go 80mm.

11

if it’s a hard tail go 100mm if it’s fs go 80mm.

I have to disagree with this for 2 reasons:
If you have that much travel in the front, you front end may end up putting you in trouble that the rear end can’t get you out of, especially if you don’t ride off-road a lot.Long travel forks put much more stress on frames than a 63 or even 80mm fork. Frames of the vintage that the Op was referring to were not designed to withstand those kinds for forces. I have seen more than a few frames fail where the user put a 100mm+ fork on.

12

First point depends on rider skill for sure. That’s a good point as the op called himself more of recreational.

I know most air forks have better dampening then a spring loaded fork, that’s obvious. I don’t have much experience with the specific fork mentioned but most newer rock shox forks have pretty good dampening as well, and since it is spring loaded full range of travel will be almost impossible. It may be listed as a 100mm fork but in my experience unless he’s taking 10 foot kickers he will probably get max of 70 or so out of it.

13

There was an Indy XC LT (Long Travel) that claimed to have 80 mm of travel versus the 63 mm on the regular Indy. I had this (LT) version on my Norco Nitro in 1997. I believe it was only available as an OEM part, although a ‘long travel’ kit was available to increase the travel in the regular XC from 63 mm to 80 mm. It was basically a longer piece of microcellular elastomer and a stiffer spring. I think the Judys of the day were sold in a similar fashion.

14

I would go for it. The Recon being a oil, coil and air shock is very smooth. You can always just dial in more sag to make it shorter.

15

I have an 80mm Recon out in the garage that I’ll sell you for $50 + shipping. It came with my wifes 2007 Zaskar and she used it for 2 years before I gave her my SID when I went to a 29er. If you are interested, I’ll measure the steerer and take some pictures.

16

That would probably be a great option. I’d imagine the OP’s fork is rim brake only, and another factor may be whether the OP wants to stay rim brake, and what forks are out now that even have the option.

17

Buy a carbon rigid fork, very few of the Xterra races are technical enough to require suspension.

18

I have a giant frame … 22" with a 10.5" steerer tube right now. If your fork will work I am interested.

19

Based on my measurements, there is an inch difference between my current fork and the new fork (axle to crown). Is this pretty close (close enough for government work)?

Thanks, drn92

20

If you have that much travel in the front, you front end may end up putting you in trouble that the rear end can’t get you out of, especially if you don’t ride off-road a lot.
By that logic, hard tails should all have rigid forks.