Mechanical Dura Ace Vs Ultegra Di2

Have a chance to pick up a new bike and trying to decide between the two. They are roughly the same price. Any thoughts of which to go with? Pros or Cons?

I’d go with Di2. The weight savings of Dura Ace doesn’t matter and electronic shifting will be much for fun to use.

New 2017 DA, or 2016 (3yo) DA? If the latter, go w/ Di2.

Just made the switch from mech DA to ultegra Di2 myself. It’s awesome. It used to be, “stick with mech unless you have a good reason to go electronic.” Now I’d say, “Go electronic unless you have a good reason to stay mech.” Shifting out by the brakes is that useful.

On a TT bike Di2 no question. On a road bike DA9000 every time.

I struggled with the same question for months. After asking the same question here, and talking with folks, I decided to stay with mechanical.
Couple of reasons. First is you can fix, basically, by anyone, at any place, a mechanical setup. Not always so easy with Di2.

Second, 100% of the folks I asked who have Di2 said it did not make them faster, just less money in their wallet, and the risk of my first comment.

Made the same decision on 10 speed vs 11 speed. By staying 10, all my bike parts stay the same. Again, no one with 11 speed said it made them faster.

Very very tough call.

I struggled with the same question for months. After asking the same question here, and talking with folks, I decided to stay with mechanical.
Couple of reasons. First is you can fix, basically, by anyone, at any place, a mechanical setup. Not always so easy with Di2.

Second, 100% of the folks I asked who have Di2 said it did not make them faster, just less money in their wallet, and the risk of my first comment.

Made the same decision on 10 speed vs 11 speed. By staying 10, all my bike parts stay the same. Again, no one with 11 speed said it made them faster.

Very very tough call.

Except that as the OP said, it’s the same price. And except that 11 speed parts are now significantly cheaper than 10 speed parts. But I guess if you have all 10 spd wheelsets that may outweigh the cost of the lower wear item component costs.

Faced the same decision last year, went Di2, and have never looked back. Love it. I know about 10 people who’ve gone to Di2 over the past 2 years, and not a single one regrets it.

Road bike or TT/Tri bike? TT/Tri bike go Di2. Don’t even think about mechanical Dura Ace.

If it’s a road bike then there’s more to think about. I’d get eTap if possible. eTap is so good that once you use it you’ll realize you’ve seen the future. Second choice would be Di2. And I tend to be a weight weenie. Weight difference is small and mechanical just isn’t worth the trouble. Always needs TLC.

Another vote for Di2. I’ll never go back to mechanical.

I moved from DA mechanical to DA di2 when I bought my new bike. This is coming from one of the most particular dudes out there - go Di2. It’s so nice and it works perfectly. No cables, no stretching, no grinding of gears, just rapid perfect shifts. Only recommendation beyond that is to set yourself up with buttons on both bullhorns and aero bars. When you get into the hills, or riding with a group, it’s a luxury to be able to shift from both positions.

I have both- mechanical 9000 and Ultegra DI2- I like the DI2 better in every way.
DI2 is freedom from derailleur adjustments and no front derailleur rub!

I think this. I had Ultegra Di2 on last road bike and recently built a new one with mechanical DA. It shifts so well that I don’t miss electronic at all, which was a bit of a surprise. Perhaps my mind will change a little when shift cables wear out but until then I’d do it the same. And the brake calipers are far superior.

**I think this. I had Ultegra Di2 on last road bike and recently built a new one with mechanical DA. It shifts so well that I don’t miss electronic at all, which was a bit of a surprise. Perhaps my mind will change a little when shift cables wear out but until then I’d do it the same. And the brake calipers are far superior. **

I agree with Chris.

For a road-bike - Well set up DA Mechanical shifts amazing. I’ve ridden a lot on Di2 loaners - believe me- I think it’s awesome, but in terms of how it actually shifts, it’s a toss-up compered to optimally tuned mechanical. If you are not that mechanically inclined, Di2 might be the better choice. Ounce set up, and assuming proper users usage, you are good to go for a long time! HOWEVER, when there are problems with Di2 that no one can trouble-shoot on the spot, your ride/race may be done on-the-spot! With my Race Announcing work at many triathlons, gran-fondos and other cycling events each year, I would say there is on average 2 - 3 DNS’s due to Di2 problems that prevent athletes from starting each year.

Now for a TT bike or dedicated tri set up - I would go with Di2 all the way!

My OCD tendencies can’t handle the shifters pointing in different directions. Thus for me it would have to be Di2 or SRAM R2C.

HOWEVER, when there are problems with Di2 that no one can trouble-shoot on the spot, your ride/race may be done on-the-spot! With my Race Announcing work at many triathlons, gran-fondos and other cycling events each year, I would say there is on average 2 - 3 DNS’s due to Di2 problems that prevent athletes from starting.

In general I wouldn’t disagree with your logic. I’ve even been on the receiving end of Di2 pre-race and race failures (both Gen 1 DA Di2), but at IM 70.3 StG this year I met up with a group of folks after the race that had traveled there from the east coast. Friends of a friend. Out of a group of 4, all of them had some kind of issue with their tri-bikes after reassembly following air travel. A couple of them scrambled around StG prior to the race trying to find bike mechanic help. The expo bike support was so backed up they didn’t stand a chance. One of them found a shop to help with her issues and got things sorted out enough to start, but complained that shifting still didn’t work on race day.

The worst of the group couldn’t get his FD shifting properly and ended up riding the entire race w/o his big ring!

This brought to light an entirely unknown side of triathlon to me. I wrench my own bikes and had never given the availability of bike mechanic help serious consideration. So for many be it cables or Di2 a failure is a failure:(

I felt bad for these guys at StG knowing I probably could have helped them if we met before the race, but then again, that kind of help would break my rule about helping triathletes with their bike before the race and then owning any issues that come up;)

My OCD tendencies can’t handle the shifters pointing in different directions. Thus for me it would have to be Di2 or SRAM R2C.

Amazing. Only a triathlete could be this anal. I am plagued with equally absurd maladies, sadly

On a TT bike Di2 no question. On a road bike DA9000 every time.

Di2 always, have had several mechanical issues and never one with di2. It’s just so simple. I have it on the training bike, road racing bike, and now the cross bike.

Da 9000 is over rated, massive lever throw, heavy, sheering cables, poor cassette, and the price is more than ultegra di2.

Thank you for the replies everyone. Apologize for not saying in original post but this is for a road bike.

When I walk through transition, I so badly want to point all shifters in the same direction. I just know that would really fuck up somebody’s flying mount.