I got my $1999 Kestrel 4000 out of the box and did the initial set up today. With my measurements from my old Kestrel everything fell into place.
Added my $525 wheels from Farsports and Disc cover from Wheelbuilder and I’m almost ready for my comback in triathlon. I have to change the crank to a new Ultegra 53/39 that I have sitting in the box,trim cables and move the pads forword and trim the rear ends of the extentions and it’ll be all good. Even the seat feels pretty good, I have to move it back though.
First race of the comeback; Haleiwa Sprint, 3/02/13, Haleiwa, Hi
Agreed, but it’s not bad including race wheels and whatnot, particularly if ‘new’ is a criterion. For used, people on here have done much, much better.
Agreed, but it’s not bad including race wheels and whatnot, particularly if ‘new’ is a criterion. For used, people on here have done much, much better.
It was your great deal back in December that got me started on my hunt for a new Kestrel 4000. I went a little different route with a lightly used 2010 Frameset and 3T bars, Powertap wheel and H3 front with new ultegra drivetrain and FSA cranks. With selling my older bike, a commuter bike I had hanging around the garage and my previous set of H3 tubular wheels, I am into this for a little over $650 out of pocket.
Ha this is awesome, I didn’t know this was a Kestrel 4000 thread when I clicked it yet I was thinking of the BNIB 2012 4000 I just got off eBay a few weeks ago for 1590 shipped. I still havent built it up yet, I’ve been super lazy, but it looks good so far with my Flo wheels.
I’m a kestrel nut, imhave 2010 talon tri that I’m converting to road bike, a 2010 airfoil pro, and now a 4000
I got it form Bicycle Doctor in Bloomington Indiana for their late November/Black Friday sale. This is Kestrel’s 105 build and it comes with a FSA compact crank with 172.5 arms. I’m going to change that to a standard Ultegra crank with 175’s. If I didn’t have the Ultegra sitting around I’d probably leave the crank and just change the small ring to a 38 and be fine with that. I got out for a short ride, right before dark, and it all felt really good. Today, I’m going to try moving the extensions under the base bar and re-doing the disc cover to get more clearance on the none drive side, it’s very close, but I won’t be trimming anything until I’m sure about the final set up.
With the Michelin Pro Race 3 tires that I got for half price last year the bike is actually less that $2600. I think it’s amazing when you consider that my first tri bike was a 1995 QR Kilo for $1850 with Spinergy RevX wheels that I think were $800, so the price was about the same.
It was your great deal back in December that got me started on my hunt for a new Kestrel 4000. I went a little different route with a lightly used 2010 Frameset and 3T bars, Powertap wheel and H3 front with new ultegra drivetrain and FSA cranks. With selling my older bike, a commuter bike I had hanging around the garage and my previous set of H3 tubular wheels, I am into this for a little over $650 out of pocket.
Good job shopping. I’m going to have to nominate you to be an honorary New Yorker. Do you have a more finished pic?
I got out again for a bit after getting everything torqued with grease on the threads. It really feels silky smooth and fast.
I have my new extensions put on but have not yet received my HED 3 front wheel or disc cover. I’ll post again when I get hose items. Should be here by next week.
I just redid the disc cover. I was just 1 or 2 mm from the chainstay so I trimmed about 1.5 cm of of the circumference and use some small zip ties to clinch it down to three spokes at the hub side. I now have a full cm clearance. From what I’ve read, disc covers are a tough fit on this bike, but not that bad with a deep, 80 or more, rear wheel. I also found a good trick; it’s a tight squeeze to get the rear wheel out but if you take the nut completely off of the skewer it drops right out. I’m really liking this bike, good luck with yours and don’t forget to post the finished pic.
