Looking for a new Tri Bike - and very confused

Triathlon Forum
1

Hi All,

I am new to SlowTwitch and coming back to triathlon after a 6 year break due to heavy times in work and life in which I was only exercising as a runner. Back in 2013, I purchased a Felt B16 for ~$2000, bought some racing wheels and felt pretty good about my bike set up over several long-distance races. It seems the game has really changed since then. While my income has increased in the meantime, and I could potentially budget it to buy a top end tri bike, I am wondering if it is really worth it to buy a bike set-up that totals in the 5 figure costs. I have a couple of half IM and one full IM race scheduled next year (hopefully more in the years to come) and want to be as competitive as I can without just throwing money at a bike for no extra benefit.

Specifically, here’s my dilemma: I had a bike fit last week and was recommended to buy a Quintana Roo XPR and then put the extra money into race wheels, helmet, tri suit, etc. At the same time, I have hired a coach who cautioned me against QR, as he had heard some issues with it, and recommended something more like the Trek Speed Concept. I have had others tell me the most important thing is to find something that I am comfortable on and fits me perfectly. Based on my measurements in the fitting, I could pretty much pick any brand of bike and get the right fit. However I can’t just take a bike out and ride it without already purchasing it, so I feel like I am asked to put down $5000+ on whatever I choose up front.

I really like both my bike fitter and my coach, but with differing opinions, I would love to have another viewpoint prior to pulling the trigger.

Thanks!

2

Quintana Roo has a 30 day (Edited) return policy. I would say get yourself a new coach.

3

What are your fit numbers?

4

Seat Height: 797
Pad X/Pad Reach: 510/555
Pad y/Pad Stack: 680

I think these are the main numbers you would want to pick a frame size right? Again, a lot of this terminology is still foreign to me.

Thanks!

5

Those would suggest you are on the taller side of the median. As you say, you’re going to be fitting on most L/XL bikes without pushing the fit too much to impact handling.

6

Hi All,

…I have a couple of half IM and one full IM race scheduled next year (hopefully more in the years to come) and want to be as competitive as I can without just throwing money at a bike for no extra benefit.

Specifically, here’s my dilemma: I had a bike fit last week and was recommended to buy a Quintana Roo XPR and then put the extra money into race wheels, helmet, tri suit, etc.

That is a smart recommendation. I bet I can even name your fitter based on that recommendation

At the same time, I have hired a coach who cautioned me against QR, as he had heard some issues with it, and recommended something more like the Trek Speed Concept.

What issues did your coach mention? back when you bought your Felt the bike was 15-20% of the total drag package, now these top tier bikes are at between 10-15% of the drag package. You are a bigger drag now.

I have had others tell me the most important thing is to find something that I am comfortable on and fits me perfectly. Based on my measurements in the fitting, I could pretty much pick any brand of bike and get the right fit. However I can’t just take a bike out and ride it without already purchasing it, so I feel like I am asked to put down $5000+ on whatever I choose up front.

I really like both my bike fitter and my coach, but with differing opinions, I would love to have another viewpoint prior to pulling the trigger.

Thanks!

All the opinions are correct in some way, shape or form. You can buy something that’s probably a little bit slower than the Speed Concept, maybe, no one knows, the previous SC was not great at low yaw angles. I know a few people had issues w/the QR hydration when they launched the V-PR. IDK if the XPR will have those issues or not. QR was also super responsive.

You should make sure your bike fits your coordinates and if you’re in the range of multiple sizes then you most likely should go with the one that has the most flexibility to adjust it.

As far as your coach is concerned the # of coaches that have deep dived into the bike world is far fewer than the number that have just stuck their toes in the water.

Hope that helps

7

There’s a bunch of really smart folks in here (Jim and Brian thus far) that you should listen to before you listen to me, but are you in a hurry to buy a bike? The biggest bang for your buck is probably just consistent training over the next 6 months rather than spending money on a bike. I’d probably see how I’d do on the old back at a local Olympic or the first 70.3 of the year before deciding on making the upgrade. However, if you have the money to spend and you want to then by all means go for it. Buying new stuff is fun, especially if it makes you faster.

8

Seat Height: 797
Pad X/Pad Reach: 510/555
Pad y/Pad Stack: 680

I think these are the main numbers you would want to pick a frame size right? Again, a lot of this terminology is still foreign to me.

Thanks!

EyeTri08
I run the QR fit assistance thread - and put a lot of people on PRfives, PRsixes, X-PRs, and V-PRs. I don’t know about any issues and I’ve got my ear open for such things. Could you please have your coach elaborate so I can have better understanding.

Please bring your numbers over to my thread and let me prescribe the bike in detail…and also include for me your height, inseam and the crank length your fitter used to prescribe that seat height.

Eager to help, Ian

9

Wow thanks for all of this input from Brian and others! Makes me feel much better about a pending big investment! I don’t have any specific concerns mentioned about QR and will add them later if they come up. The XPR does seem to give me a lot of opportunity for adjustment to add more speed.

…very happy to have an extra opinion!

10

Thanks, I will head over there with more details in a bit!

11

Plenty to pick from and bikes are becoming quite available now. I see what some are recommending but the wheels are a big plus, and I would definitely opt for electronic shifting on a tri bike, as then you have 2 shifting locations and it just works. Not a fan here of QR but there are some other great brands and good value for your money. I’d definitely look at either a Cervelo P series or P5, Argon18 as well…You have a Felt and they are fine, just a bit more finicky at times with the fit and disassembly. I also agree with many that have posted through the years that the top tier can be far less adjustable so I’d go great frame but with a more adjustable front end, especially if you plan to travel with your bike. Shop around but actually buying one now and having the winter to hone the fit is a great plan as you beat the rush and availability seems pretty good right now.

12

First of all, you’re the one on the bike in the next years and not your bike fitter or your coach, so I would not be afraid of any remarks from them when you buy something which they do not prefer. You’ll probably have your bike longer than you’ll have your fitter and your coach anyway.

Secondly, I would start with planning what you want to take on the bike (especially because you say you want to do IMs).
Which liquids, which foods, which tubes and which tools. You’ll find out that every bike has other restrictions and in this phase you still have influence on that.

Thirdly (less important than the second point I brought up tmho), you might have preferences concerning groups: electric gearing (cableless or not), brakes, brands, for which you are also not absolutely flexible anymore once you decide for a frame. Related to this is also the choice whether to purchase a whole bike or a frame with parts and if you want to build it together youself.

Edit: I see other posters mentioned adjustibility what I forgot.

13

Back in 2013, I purchased a Felt B16 for ~$2000, bought some racing wheels and felt pretty good about my bike set up over several long-distance races. It seems the game has really changed since then.

Just because bikes look different today, doesn’t mean they are actually faster. Your B16 with an upgraded cockpit would still allow for some fast bike splits

14

Curious what % of your total budget is going to all the 'Other stuff" like helmets, skinsuits, getting aero… and how important that is to you ?

15

Quintana Roo has a 30 return policy. I would say get yourself a new coach.

30 Years?

16

I agree with a previous poster. Do you NEED a new bike right now? If you still have the existing felt and wheels why don’t you rock that for the upcoming year and then make your decision based on that. You could also build up your $ by holding off and not rushing to get something right now.

I personally like the look of the trek, and I am intrigued by the isofit they have. However, I have the Gen 2 Trek SC and am happy with it. If I suddenly came into money, yes I would upgrade.

Is your current bike rideable?

I would also pay attention to black friday deals that may be around.

17

Quintana Roo has a 30 return policy. I would say get yourself a new coach.

30 Years?

Or 30 days, which ever comes first.

18

Here is the deal on your old bike and what the next decade changes really make in practical terms…

The biggest two things are disc brakes, and electronic shifting, neither of which really make your bike faster. They are super nice to have and make riding a bit easier, but not much in speed difference.

The next and biggest thing that has changed is tires, and how they interact with your race wheels. Now that is a real improvement, one that you may be able to retro on your old race wheels, not sure what you have. But if you need to upgrade, that is where you will get the most bang for your buck, along with a good proper fit. You need to go tubuless, wider clinchers, and a very high quality race tire with proper pressure. Those two things will get you up to speed as far as modern speed bikes go, and the rest is the last 1% that you can decide on later…

Or if the money is burning a hole in your pocket, just go out and get a new super bike, but only after someone like Ian has consulted with you about what size to get. They are all pretty much turn key these days, so you will be good to go out the gate…And keep in mind that most of the problems you hear about any and all of the bikes, are usually small stuff, not things to sweat in whether to purchase or not. I like the 30 day return policies, can’t go wrong there, so look at each companies terms there…

19

Narrow is aero. 23mm or 25mm tires on the right wheels can be very fast.

Nothing wrong with clincher tires and latex tubes.

20

The biggest two things are disc brakes, and electronic shifting, neither of which really make your bike faster.

I agree with the rest of your comments however not the disk brakes comment. I find them to be a significant technological upgrade making the bike safer, making cornering and descending more “certain” etc. I used to think the same as u…until i got a ridley gravel bike with disk brakes. Changed my thinking completely