Just got a Look 596 and I need to get the crank off to replace the chain rings, but the darn Zed2 crank is stuck… I took off the lockring, removed the washer and tried to remove the crank by pulling it through the drive side. Nothing… so I called Look and they suggested to use a rubber mallet to gently tap on the non-drive side, but after almost 1hr of tapping, the crank is just barely moving (tapped it out about 5mm, but that’s it). Getting a bit scared to tap that much more…
good luck on that. My LBS had one with the same issue and it ended up going back to LOOK for warranty. I think the frame was replaced. Now the owner has it removed often to ensure it is not going to seize.
Ok… so if I can’t get the crank out, how the heck do I ever get the chain rings on? Have 52/38 110mm Q-rings, but I can’t see any way of getting the chain ring mounted from the drive side… again, am I missing something?
I don’t have an answer for you. But can you post or send me a photo? I’m considering a 695 frameset and would like to see what you’re talking about. Uasually chainrings can be mounted or removed without pulling the crank off, I don’t understand why these are any different. Is the smaller inner chiainring the problem?
The rings can be removed from Zed cranks, with cranks in frame, like any other crankset. I have removed stuck Zed cranks before an some I could not remove and they had to go back to Look. The ones I unstuck I poured penetrating oil down seat tube, enough to cover bb. I let it sit over night and was able to remove the next day. I know this I after the fact but I have a few Zed cranks and great as they are,never wash bb with with water and because they are so easy to remove,take them out, clean and regrease often!
Actually, I can’t mount the chain rings without removing the crank… the dual diameter mounting tabs (allow you to use 130mm or 110mm BCD rings) are too large to slip a 110mm ring over them. They can’t get passed the 130mm section of the tabs…
Taking the frame in to a Look dealer today and hopefully they have an idea. Very frustrating though…
Tough to tell since I’m not there, but most “novice” mechanics do one of a couple things when it comes to these things:
They don’t hit the crank nearly hard enough because they are concerned they will break it.
They go “mid-evil” on it and break it.
They fail to secure the fame and it “bounces” during the strike, which absorbes most of the energy and renders the impact useless.
If you haven’t already done so get the frame secured so it can’t move during impact, then smack it a little harder. If you are scared you are going to break it, then you probably need to stop and get the LBS to help you, but I would ask to watch them remove it so you get some idea of what you were doing wrong (if anything).
On a side note, I always use a press for things like this. Takes the guess work out of it and its a lot safer. I’m lucky enough to have a 250 ton hydraulic press at work. The LBS uses a little hand press.
Ok, took the bike to the LBS (ATA Cycles in Concord, MA, awesome people and the knew exactly my dilemma). The bear races were corroded to the frame, so a little bit of oil, let it soak, a couple of decent hits with the rubber mallet and the crank was loose. Word of advise to anyone with a Look frame set, just grease the bearing races on the frame and you’ll be just fine.
LOL!! Yea, something like that. When I was typing it I knew it was the wrong spelling, but my brain just could sort it out, and I had to go to a staff meeting.
