I have a spin bike at home and thinking about changing the crank length. As you can imagine both side have no “chainrings” so I need a right side crank arm with no rings. I am assuming I can just take two left side cranks and put one on the right side and now the threading on that one ends up being in the correct orientation to accept a right side pedal.
Taper Square is the system on the spin bike so left arm cranks are dirt cheap.
Am I missing anything here?
I am assuming I can just take two left side cranks and put one on the right side and now the threading on that one ends up being in the correct orientation to accept a right side pedal.
Am I missing anything here?
I’m working with a grade 3 concussion here so take it for what it’s worth- How in the world do your expect the “left handed” threads of the left crank arm to change into right handed ones by switching the side of the bike it’s on?
Hugh
I am assuming I can just take two left side cranks and put one on the right side and now the threading on that one ends up being in the correct orientation to accept a right side pedal.
Am I missing anything here?
I’m working with a grade 3 concussion here so take it for what it’s worth- How in the world do your expect the “left handed” threads of the left crank arm to change into right handed ones by switching the side of the bike it’s on? Those square tapers have a side that goes towards the middle of the bike due to their taper so you can’t just flip that aspect.
Hugh
Hey, first of all get better from the concussion…and limit screen time!
Maybe I am missing what you are getting at. I am assuming that the threads that the pedal goes into (inside the crank) will be in the right orientation such that I can screw in a right side pedal (pedal always tightens when turning the pedal axle “forward” relative to direction of bike travel (right hand rule on right side of bike, left hand rule on left side of bike). The actual taper square spindle should not matter on either side?
I am assuming I can just take two left side cranks and put one on the right side and now the threading on that one ends up being in the correct orientation to accept a right side pedal.
Am I missing anything here?
I’m working with a grade 3 concussion here so take it for what it’s worth- How in the world do your expect the “left handed” threads of the left crank arm to change into right handed ones by switching the side of the bike it’s on? Those square tapers have a side that goes towards the middle of the bike due to their taper so you can’t just flip that aspect.
Hugh
Hey, first of all get better from the concussion…and limit screen time!
Maybe I am missing what you are getting at. I am assuming that the threads that the pedal goes into (inside the crank) will be in the right orientation such that I can screw in a right side pedal (pedal always tightens when turning the pedal axle “forward” relative to direction of bike travel (right hand rule on right side of bike, left hand rule on left side of bike). The actual taper square spindle should not matter on either side?
Left hand crank = left handed pedal threads even if you could move it to the side of the bike. I agree the taper part would not matter. Even if you jammed it on backwards the threads would be wrong.
Think of holding a regular nut over on the left side of the bike and then move it over to the right side. Would it now somehow have reversed its thread orientation?
I am assuming I can just take two left side cranks and put one on the right side and now the threading on that one ends up being in the correct orientation to accept a right side pedal.
Am I missing anything here?
I’m working with a grade 3 concussion here so take it for what it’s worth- How in the world do your expect the “left handed” threads of the left crank arm to change into right handed ones by switching the side of the bike it’s on? Those square tapers have a side that goes towards the middle of the bike due to their taper so you can’t just flip that aspect.
Hugh
Hey, first of all get better from the concussion…and limit screen time!
Maybe I am missing what you are getting at. I am assuming that the threads that the pedal goes into (inside the crank) will be in the right orientation such that I can screw in a right side pedal (pedal always tightens when turning the pedal axle “forward” relative to direction of bike travel (right hand rule on right side of bike, left hand rule on left side of bike). The actual taper square spindle should not matter on either side?
Left hand crank = left handed pedal threads even if you could move it to the side of the bike. I agree the taper part would not matter. Even if you jammed it on backwards the threads would be wrong.
Think of holding a regular nut over on the left side of the bike and then move it over to the right side. Would it now somehow have reversed its thread orientation?
LOL you’re right…it does not matter what happens, I’ll never be able to put a right side pedal in a left side crank! OK OK…so where do all these spin bike companies get their chainring-less right hand cranks?
Would it be possible to install an insert into the pedal hole on the crank arm, and have that insert tapped with the correct threading…?
A lot of pedal spindles are replaceable, just put a left crank on right side and buy a left pedal spindle for that. ???
Maybe I am missing something, it might limit pedal choices though. I have a bunch of spare Key-win pedal spindles.
Maurice
A lot of pedal spindles are replaceable, just put a left crank on right side and buy a left pedal spindle for that. ???
Maybe I am missing something, it might limit pedal choices though. I have a bunch of spare Key-win pedal spindles.
Maurice
I think this would work, however, putting a left side pedal spindle on the right side of the bike would result in the pedal potentially coming loose due to threading being the “wrong way”. But since it’s on a spin bike it’s not like I run the risk of ending up with my right foot crashing down on the ground during an out of the saddle sprint and crashing (yes, I have done that ages ago on a not properly tightened pedal…how I don’t know as it should have self tightened).
I actually just have regular platform pedals with rat traps as I mainly use this spin bike in my home gym set up and often use this bike just to warm up for outside runs, treadmill runs, weight training etc. If I want to ride ‘seriously’ I have another old road bike on a computrainer.
Would you happen to have a picture of the spin bike cranks?
It still might have a standard 110 BCD or 130 BCD spider.
LOL OK, or dual sided SPD and put your right side cleat on backwards, or Crank Bros (left on right)
Those spin bike cage pedals with SPD on one side and cage on the other are about 40$. You could just pull out spindle?
If worried about it coming loose…JB weld?
Maurice
Another possibility, although selection is very limited, is a front right tandem crank arm, which is basically a left arm threaded for the right side. Though it might be tough finding anything outside the 170mm-175mm range, if that’s what you’re looking for…
I think I figured out the solution for my scenario that is cheap. Use left hand crank on right hand side with a left hand side platform pedal. Flip around rat trap toe clips (since now toe would be pointing to the back of the spin bike instead of the front) and I am done for around $30-$40 total cost.
Or Speedplay Zero for the expensive solution! I don’t think there is any difference between left and right, the clipping mechanism is symmetrical and there isn’t a front or back, as it were.
Are there any square tape cranks with removable spiders?
Or Speedplay Zero for the expensive solution! I don’t think there is any difference between left and right, the clipping mechanism is symmetrical and there isn’t a front or back, as it were.
I was just thinking last nite that i could also use some cheap SPD mountain bike pedals and just use two left pedals since like speedplay they are 2 sided or just get a full taper square crank and remove the chainrings? Is the stance width added on the left and right the same? I assume yes?
The problem with using 2 left SPDs is that the one used on the right side would be flipped around and facing backwards. You’d need to install the right cleat backwards.
Most cranks are evenly spaced, the only possible issue I can think of for using a complete crank minus the ring(s) would be if there was anything sticking out that might interfere with the spider. That, and it would look kinda ugly 
Have you considered (or know about) crank “shortners”? Typically seen for Tandems like so:
I discovered these existed on another forum (either RBR or Bikeforums…can’t recall exactly). Not the cheapest solution but plenty adjustable if needed though.
Are there any square tape cranks with removable spiders?
Don’t know but you could always use a cutoff wheel (or hacksaw for the long way) to cut off the spider arms too. It’s not like they are needed for a spin bike.
Here ya go, Dev! …thanks to Warbird for the cue…
http://www.jensonusa.com/Cranksets/Sugino-XD500-Tandem-Crank-Arm
Lots of potential solutions here.
If you end up having to use two left crank arms perhaps a few drops of loctite on the threads would help prevent the pedal coming loose.