Currently on 165mm, would like to try 155 due to current knee issues, without dropping a lot of $$. Is rotor the only option? Am I correct that Shimano only goes as low as 160mm?
Thx
You might be able to find an older Cobb crank for pretty cheap on ebay. Their newer cranks aren’t too expensive either. The company/website is now speedandcomfort.com
Rotor
Cobb
Aerozine
Shimano
Croder
What spindle size? I’m getting ready to list some stuff.
Rotor
Cobb
Aerozine
Shimano
What spindle size? I’m getting ready to list some stuff.
Which shimano is in 155? Not seeing any online.
My current setup is Shimano, threaded BB.
Could have sworn Shimano had a 155 now. I could be wrong, if so apologies.
Are you looking for everything? I have a 24mm ALDHU 155mm with Aero Praxxis 52/36 rings with a Power2Max NGeco powermeter.
Just put 145 set up on my GF bike.
Could have sworn Shimano had a 155 now. I could be wrong, if so apologies.
Are you looking for everything? I have a 24mm ALDHU 155mm with Aero Praxxis 52/36 rings with a Power2Max NGeco powermeter.
Just put 145 set up on my GF bike.
Hey thx, I did look at those. I use 50/34, and if I were to go that route, P2M, I’d prob just buy direct from them here in Canada as I can get the crank arms / spider designed to work with my chainrings.
Was really just hoping I could find something quite cheap to try as an experiment. I see I can get Shimano 105 cranks in 160mm, but not sure if 5mm will really make much diff. I am having issues with my patella, possibly not tracking right, possibly some grinding, possibly some patellar tendinitis… Sport doc has ordered MRI which will prob take 2-3 months here…
Chainrings are the cheapest part, if you are experimenting I’d go the cheap route.
And no, my stuff isn’t the cheapest. But buying new everything to use with your existing chainrings doesn’t make sense.
If you need anything let me know. I have 50/34 rings also brand new.
I live in Detroit and had some guys work for me from Windsor, they always said the same, takes forever for specialized tests. Sorry to hear this and hope your knee turns out well.
I went super budget friendly on a 1x conversion for my 2013 Cervelo P3.
-Origin8 crank arms ($70) (140-175mm options)
-Deckas narrow wide chainring ($25)
-Shimano square taper bottom bracket ($25)
ETA: I love my 155mm cranks. I was on 172.5 for years (5ft 11in height). I felt like I couldn’t get over the top of the pedal stroke easily while in aero position. My cadence actually dropped lower because I feel that I can actually drive power into the pedals now rather than spinning high RPM’s to maintain power.
Praxis Zayante carbon are available in 155. $220, but you’ll need to buy the spider.
Thanks, I decided to order a rotor crank/pm from power2max and will put my dura ace chainrings on it.
I went super budget friendly on a 1x conversion for my 2013 Cervelo P3.
-Origin8 crank arms ($70) (140-175mm options)
-Deckas narrow wide chainring ($25)
-Shimano square taper bottom bracket ($25)
Sounds familiar, except P2 and Promax SQ-1 cranks…
Well, not the cheapest route, but a good one, 700 isn’t bad I suppose.
Currently on 165mm, would like to try 155 due to current knee issues, without dropping a lot of $$. Is rotor the only option? Am I correct that Shimano only goes as low as 160mm?
Thx
Can you explain how the 165 mm vs the 155 mm will help your knees issues?
I am just curious as an older guy at the local tri on the weekend was talking and his fitter out on longer cranks to 175 mm ???
Currently on 165mm, would like to try 155 due to current knee issues, without dropping a lot of $$. Is rotor the only option? Am I correct that Shimano only goes as low as 160mm?
Thx
Can you explain how the 165 mm vs the 155 mm will help your knees issues?
I am just curious as an older guy at the local tri on the weekend was talking and his fitter out on longer cranks to 175 mm ???
Maybe it won’t, but my knee pain is when pushing down from the top of the pedal stroke, I’m hoping the not having to bring the knee up quite as high might help at least a little bit. If nothing else, at 5’10, I think the shorter cranks will make me more comfortable getting into aero, seems to be the trend?
Other than that, doing eccentrics, icing, shockwave, and waiting for MRI…fun fun.
Driveline Zele cranks
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Currently on 165mm, would like to try 155 due to current knee issues, without dropping a lot of $$. Is rotor the only option? Am I correct that Shimano only goes as low as 160mm?
Thx
Can you explain how the 165 mm vs the 155 mm will help your knees issues?
I am just curious as an older guy at the local tri on the weekend was talking and his fitter out on longer cranks to 175 mm ???
Put a couple thousand riders on shorter cranks, and currently going to the Croder cranks most of the time. Not quite as nice s the Rotor but nice enough for half the price. Add a power meter spider for under $400. Compatible with Shimano rings. Lengths down to 140mm.
Shorter cranks give the knee less range of motion, and often less torque through the joint as cadence often rises.
Currently on 165mm, would like to try 155 due to current knee issues, without dropping a lot of $$. Is rotor the only option? Am I correct that Shimano only goes as low as 160mm?
Thx
Can you explain how the 165 mm vs the 155 mm will help your knees issues?
I am just curious as an older guy at the local tri on the weekend was talking and his fitter out on longer cranks to 175 mm ???
Put a couple thousand riders on shorter cranks, and currently going to the Croder cranks most of the time. Not quite as nice s the Rotor but nice enough for half the price. Add a power meter spider for under $400. Compatible with Shimano rings. Lengths down to 140mm.
Shorter cranks give the knee less range of motion, and often less torque through the joint as cadence often rises.
Can you explain how a shorter crank ( lever ) under the same bw has less torque? Just as a force perspective. And how a guy 6â€2 goes from 175 to a 155 or 140 crank and has less torque on his knees at the same power