Hello all,
looking for some real world experience here, I have been running latex tube on my rim brake race wheels for a couple of years with no issues. last couple of times purchasing new latex tubes, I was told by the LBS that their is a big risk of the tubes popping due to the rim brakes overheating the carbon wheels.
How often does this happen? anyone has any experience with this?
Thanks
I have had no issues with this even on long descents like White face Mountain. I have recently ridden the Lake placid course which has a long descent multiple times with no problems. My wife has also done the same descent and tends to be on the brakes more, also had no issues. I have Roval CL60s and my wife has Zipp 404s.
I have now moved on to disc brakes but I used to have latex tubes in Zipp 858 and I once dragged the brakes behind a car on most of Albulapass without issue (maybe 10km at 6%, didn’t know better back then…)
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I’ve never heard of this issue for latex tubes. Some of the Tubolito tubes are disc brake specific, but that it a different material altogether
I have used latex tubes in carbon wheels for 20 years. Never had an issue with overheating. On the other hand, Vittoria’s quality control over the years has been pretty spotty with tubes from some of their production runs failing at overlap where the tubes join. I’d stick with Silca tubes as I figure Josh makes sure Vittoria does a good job with the tubes they make for Silca.
It is theoretically possible, but very low probability. I rode my carbon wheels with latex tubes on a ride with 6 major mountain descents totaling 12,000 feet. It seems like it would have popped on one of those descents, if that was a moderate risk.
There was a similar post to this a couple years ago. It was found to be a non issue. In fact, I think someone chimed in that latex has more room for expansion than butyl tubes. I have run latex for years and never had an issue even with long descents with hairpin switch back turns. Just my .02.
Latex tubes should have more room for expansion, as someone else posted. I’ve also used a latex tube as a bladder to cure carbon fiber parts at 350 F with no issues. If it can survive that fine, I don’t think you have anything to be worried about.
I think what actually happens is that those kinds of conditions expose poor tube installation. Be careful and intentional on how you install your tube so it’s not pinched and you’ll be fine.
Thank you all for getting back to me on this. That is also my experience with this set up.
I just found it weird that 2 different bike mechanics warned me about it in the last 2 weeks.
So i thought maybe some truth to it that i was unaware off, especially that majority of my riding is on flat roads.
Thanks again
You can buy Vittoria latex tubes for less on eBay.
Oh i still bought them, figured the 5-10w saving was worth the risk 🥳
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My point was that you can buy Vittoria latex tubes for less than a bike shop.
You aren’t going to save 5 to10 watts with latex tubes.
Some things i prefer to buy from the LBS even if i can get them cheaper online.
If i need something urgent or for any bike maintenance, i usually will get better service
I have a long and a lot of experience with the latex/rimbrakes/carbon rims - combination. Normally I always race and train this combination.
100 kg systemweight.
Normally never had problems, not in Lanzarote, not in Austria, not in Kona. Will run this combination again in Kona this October.
However.
Had problems (flat tire) every time on the same lication on a very steep part (> 15%) of a pass even when I was cautious and stopped several times. I biked this pass afterwards only with butyl tires and aluminium rims, avoiding problems.
So yes, the combination reaches his limits sooner than the butyl/rimbrakes/aluminium rims - combination. But you have to be heavy, and the descent has to be steep and long enough.
I have pooped one going down a hill, it is possible. I don’t ride latex anymore. I was 40 miles in on a ride on my way back from the ranch on antelope island in Utah, I turned up a steep short climb to frary peak, on my way down it popped, this is probaly a 10 percent grade witha t intersection at the bottom. I have a ew other phantom flats and stuff, I hate latex.
My point was that you can buy Vittoria latex tubes for less than a bike shop.
You aren’t going to save 5 to10 watts with latex tubes.
I actually think that 5 watts of savings, if not more, is very realistic if going from a butyl to latex tube. Going from butyl to latex and vice versa is immediately noticeable to me in terms of speed (and ride quality, but def speed), which suggests it’s more than 5w for me.
It happened to me once when I descended on 17% gradient hill using only rear brake, it took about a minute from the start to explode; Although, wheels were HED JET 9 black with aluminum brake track. Latex was by Silca.
The Aerocoach testing referenced in this article would suggest that you could save around 7w, depending on what you are changing from/to:
https://cyclingtips.com/2020/10/updated-aerocoach-inner-tube-tests-conclude-latex-is-still-fastest/
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thanks everyone for chiming in, it seems consistent that unless I am going down over 10% gradients I should be ok. sorry to hear about the blow outs though, must of been scary having a flat on such downhills.
for the saving I haven’t tested but what I read from multiple sources is that it’s about 2.5 to 5 watts per tire, I haven’t tested it so I can’t confirm or not. I do choose to believe it though with the evidence that I have read, a part of it on this forum.
I have had no issues with this even on long descents like White face Mountain. I have recently ridden the Lake placid course which has a long descent multiple times with no problems. My wife has also done the same descent and tends to be on the brakes more, also had no issues. I have Roval CL60s and my wife has Zipp 404s.
you almost don’t need brakes on Whiteface mountain if you are doing it right;)