Hey ST, looking for some advice, hopefully from people who have a little experience with one or both of these bikes. I’ve got a decent TT bike, but I’ve been looking for a bike to use for group rides, Gran Fondo/Tour de Cure type rides, and the occasional cycling race. I’m no ace on a bike, but I can hold my own as long as the race isn’t too long. I’m 6’ and about 150lbs.
I’ve had my eye on a Kestrel Talon for a while now, because its cheap, reasonably aero, and seems to be a pretty well liked and durable bike. Recently, I’ve been reconsidering just how important aero is for someone who isn’t likely to be winning anything, and I’ve found myself looking at the RT-1000 as a good option. It is supposedly more comfortable and a little snappier than the Talon, slightly more upright position for longer/easier riding, and looks a little cooler. The big downside is that you loose the aerodynamics, and spend about $300-400 more for the bike. Could you slap a set of aerobars on an “endurance” bike and race it if you wanted to? There is a 70.3 near me where the entire bike is climbing and descending, and I’ve seen people TT out an S5 with that giant headtube…
Anyone out there willing to comment on either of these machines? My last road bike was a '04 Spec Allez with junk components, so either of these will be an upgrade, but I’m curious if there is a dramatic difference in performance, comfort, feel between the two.
I had one of the older Kestrel Talons for years. The geometry is really good. It really excelled in the mountains. It was plenty stiff and descended with confidence. I was putting in 100 miles every Saturday on that bike for quite a while. I found it to be really comfortable. Did lots of fast group rides/races as well. For me, it was a great all around bike.
Talon can be a problem for a road position if you need decent saddle setback. Seat angle is inclined towards a TT position.
RT1000 intended for normal road position so is easier to set up for that purpose.
Talon can be a problem for a road position if you need decent saddle setback. Seat angle is inclined towards a TT position.
RT1000 intended for normal road position so is easier to set up for that purpose.
Talon is classic road geometry, not TT geometry. No problem getting as much saddle setback as any road bike.
Talon can be a problem for a road position if you need decent saddle setback. Seat angle is inclined towards a TT position.
RT1000 intended for normal road position so is easier to set up for that purpose.
In fact, I just checked the geometry. Same seat tube angle for Kestyrel and RT1000.
Talon is classic road geometry, not TT geometry. No problem getting as much saddle setback as any road bike.
Seatpost is 0 offset forwards. So it is a couple of degrees steeper in practice than a standard road bike, despite what the geo chart says. Though RT1000 post not very adjustable so would be limiting for some riders too.
“I had one of the older Kestrel Talons for years. The geometry is really good. It really excelled in the mountains. It was plenty stiff and descended with confidence. I was putting in 100 miles every Saturday on that bike for quite a while. I found it to be really comfortable. Did lots of fast group rides/races as well. For me, it was a great all around bike”
Keep in mind though that the stack and reach is very long and low compared to most road bikes. So seat angle aside, it’s a tough fit for lots of people.
So for someone with some minor hip/back stiffness issues, would you opt for the RT-1000? I’m pretty lanky, so I’d probably end up dropping the front end down a touch regardless.
I realize that I can work out the stiffness problems, and I KNOW I’m going to wish that I had a more aero bike at some point, but I really want I bike that I can take out for 3 or 4 hours and not regret it. Sounds like the Talon is a really solid bike for people who it fits, but am I more likely to fit into a more “traditional” grometry?
I had a talon for a few years. Raced it both in TT and road formats and did fine in all. For its price, it’s a tough ride to beat as an all around-er. I ultimately replaced it with an alloy cinelli for crit racing because it just felt a little noodle-y in hard accelerations when throwing the bike side to side. Specifically, the BB “felt” flexy. Whether it actually did flex or was merely phantom perception, I don’t know. But it wasn’t inspiring.
Pluses: it’s very smooth, handles well and with the dual position post can put you anywhere you need to be.
Minuses: as stated above. Plus it’s rather heavy for a road bike now-a-days.
Personally, I’d go for the RT1000. And have considered it. But have also considered the Felt AR, which I feel is a better all around race bike than the Talon.
I agree on the AR being a better all around bike- only problem is that I could almost buy two Talons for the price of an AR with similar components, and I don’t have the resources to justify that.
I’m leaning towards the RT 1000 myself. Something about that sharp downtube on the Talon makes me think that a water bottle would lose me a good chunk of the aerodynamics it promises, and I enjoy not being dehydrated.
I rode a Talon SL for about 3-4 years. It is a good bike, very stiff, handles well and is aero. My only complaint was that it had a harsh ride, so it al depends on how good the roads are near you. Last winter was very harsh near me (NY) and left the roads in really bad shape. I was coming back from rides completely beat up from the bike (neck and arms).
Just to clarify, are you intending to keep your “decent TT bike” in addition to the Talon/RT-1000. If so, and given your stated uses (group ride, gran fondo, etc.), I would go comfort >>>> aero. Of the two, I guess that puts me in favor of the RT-1000 but I would take it a step further. I would go for a timeless classic-- steel or Ti (but not a tank), old man road geometry, with clearance for at least 28mm tires front and back, preferably with fender/rack mounts. In a two bike set-up, that covers a lot of bases from tris, TTs, centuries, group rides, rail trails, gravel races, commuting etc.
I still have an older Talon that used to be my tri + road bike. I can’t complain, it did both jobs competently enough when I only had space for one bike. It makes for a fast road bike, but it’s not so great for century rides. I’m sure part of it is the personal fit, but my hands/arms would go numb after a few hours in the saddle. It is now on dedicated trainer duty since I have gone to the n+1 bike model.
N+1 is in my future once I have the space. Currently, 2 is gonna be my max, and even that will be a squeeze (girlfriend has a commuter + roadie combo).
From the looks of it, the RT comes with about 20mm of spacers underneath the stem. If I drop the front and get a little bit longer stem, that’ll still give me a reasonably forward position if I decide to race it, with the option of going higher if I’m doing a century with my fair lady. I think Endurance geometry is in my future! Now I just have to find someone who will let me finance it, so I don’t have to wait until the middle of summer to buy one…
Talon can be a problem for a road position if you need decent saddle setback. Seat angle is inclined towards a TT position.
RT1000 intended for normal road position so is easier to set up for that purpose.
I have both bikes (and a Cannondale Six13). In a car a oly, the Talon is Like a Corvette. The RT1000 is like a Mercedes. Of the two, I used the Talon for shorter, hilly rides, fast club rides, etc. the RT1000 is a great long distance bike with a taller head tube. I’ve used it for numerous centuries, doubles, etc., especially hilly ones. Clip ons are ok, but if you properly fit it for road use, you are really stretched out when aero.
The issues I’ve found with both are:
cable routing takes time.
the aero posts don’t allow any lateral movement. Kestrel does make an adapter to use a round post with the Talon.
check the stack and reach of the Talon, or better yet, borrow one and ride for several miles.
check the location of the water bottle cages and see if they are hard to use. My RT1000 is a bit tight due to the sloping top tube.