What size cassette should I use for Ironman Wisconsin’s hilly bike course?
Thanks,
I used an 12-27 last year and did fine with it. I have never heard anyone complain about having too many gears on that course, so take all you can!
I ran a compact crank, and an 11-23
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I used a standard crank and an 11-23 last year and didn’t like how over-cooked my quads felt having to mash their way up the hills.
This year I’ve switched to a compact crank and an 11-28 so I can spin my way up at a nice high cadence.
What size cassette should I use for Ironman Wisconsin’s hilly bike course?
Thanks,
Depends on a lot:
Wheel size - 650c or 700c
Chainring sizes
Your FTP/ability/finishing time
And, to a lesser extent - crank length (which affects total gearing)
When in doubt, you want extra gear for Wisconsin. There are a few steep ones out there… better to have an extra cog that you end up not using, rather than not having enough.
The higher the number the better. There really isn’t any section where you’d need 54x11, other than down a hill for a few seconds. It is when you go right back up a hill at the bottom, over and over again, that the 27 or compact will help.
I have done the race 3 times and ridden the course dozens of times.
Initially, I ran a standard crank and 12-25. Over cooked a bit on the hills, which are not horrible, but, just keep coming. I switched to a compact and 11-26, which is perfect and is what I ride every time on that course.
I would say 27 if you arent running a compact. You might as well make your easist gear as easy as possible. Second lap up midtown road is tough.
. I switched to a compact and 11-26, which is perfect and is what I ride every time on that course.
Of course as others have stated, the ideal crank / cassette combo is still subject to a ton of variability based on riding ability and other factors, but however a compact and 11-26 would probably get my vote as the “best” gearing choice for the largest percentage of athletes on that course.
I’ve ridden it a ton of times but only raced it once. When I raced it I did 53/39 with an 11-28 at a time when I was only 150lbs and in pretty good climbing shape. I still could have used more gears on on the two main climbs to stay within racing power zones. Have rode it a handful of times since on a compact and that was far better.
34/50 and 12/27 or 11/28. up/down/right/left, and very little “payoff” on the downhills; sharp left turn, sharp right turn, kill the speed … not much pedaling on that course at 30+ mph, so running out of gears on the high end is not an issue.
Another way of looking at it - if your FTP is 300W (which is a good FTP for an AG’er), then “racing the IM bike leg” at 70% gives you about 210W. You’re all the way (or nearly) into lowest gear on anything above about 6%-ish at 200W, and you will not climb the 3 biggest climbs (each loop) on that course under 200W.
compact with 11-23 both times i did it. i did ride the course with a 12-27 in training and decided the 11-23 and compact was way better for me
I have done the race 3 times and ridden the course dozens of times.
Initially, I ran a standard crank and 12-25. Over cooked a bit on the hills, which are not horrible, but, just keep coming. I switched to a compact and 11-26, which is perfect and is what I ride every time on that course.
I concur.
Compact crank worked beautifully.
For the folks suggesting “compact”, I would personally specify one step further as mid-compact 52/36. The 36 still gives you a nice climbing gear, and I like having something to “push on” for the downhill - even if I’m not really pushing watts. A 50t is pretty easy to spin out - especially if you only have a 12t small cog.
Assuming a lot - i.e. mid-pack male age group athlete on 700c wheels and 170mm cranks - it’d be hard to do worse than 52/36 and 11-28.
Greg
I would use a compact 50/34 on the front and a 12/27 on the back.
A 50t is pretty easy to spin out - especially if you only have a 12t Greg
While I would not argue that you cant’ spin out a compact on a downhill, that point is assuming that you are even actually trying to pedal on the downhills in the first place. Watch any Ironman course with variable terrain and tell me what percentage of athletes are still even pedaling the downhills on the 2nd loop.
Ironic almost, if you have a compact and ride sensibly within your limits, you might actually still have enough left in you to maintain your power on the downhills and possibly spin out. If you blow your wad pushing the hills on the first loop as the vast majority of athletes on this course seem to do, your 53x11 won’t do you a whole lot of good as you coast down every hill seeking respite.
I used Shamano 54/39 and would not recommend it for this course my quads were toast for the run.
hey bringing this back up, when you ran the 12-27 , did have regular crank? I am doing madison, biked the course and found out I may be using to much power up hills in my easiest gear.
Thanks
Ryan
I used:
650c
175mm cranks
56x 44
12x25
No power meter data, but I’ve gone ~5:35-6:03 in 5 Ironman races.
I ended up using a 12-27 cassette. It worked perfect. What a great race. Have fun and spin up those hills.
i’m in no means a strong rider. but i was pretty comfortable with a compact crank and 11-26
john