Are there any advantages to doing one or the other? I currently have the Zipp Service Course SL 70 Ergo bars and a Zipp Service Course Stem 100mm. I think I need to go out just a touch and I’m wondering if I should go to a 110mm stem or an 80mm reach bar. Let’s forget costs right now, why would I do one over the other?
Stem is so much easier. Probably won’t have to recable with a stem change.
If you are at the limits with the stem (which you aren’t) then changing the bars might be something to consider.
Edit
Moving the stem will move the tops out a little bit but 10mm isn’t much. 30mm might be a big deal.
Stem is so much easier. Probably won’t have to recable with a stem change.
If you are at the limits with the stem (which you aren’t) then changing the bars might be something to consider.
Edit
Moving the stem will move the tops out a little bit but 10mm isn’t much. 30mm might be a big deal.
New bike. Haven’t wrapped bars yet as I settle on a position, so recabling is no big deal.
It’s pretty rare that changing the reach of the bar just changes the reach. The shape - and thus position of the hoods once they’re set up - almost always changes at least to some degree as well.
Here’s the Zipp SL-70 and SL-80. If you just want to push the reach out a bit, change the stem.
There’s little difference between the 70 and 80 other than the bend at the top. I like the bend on the 70 better.
I wouldn’t change bars to go 10mm but I would (and have) for 30mm.
If you’re relatively happy with the tops and hoods I’d stick with the same bars.
It’s pretty rare that changing the reach of the bar just changes the reach. The shape - and thus position of the hoods once they’re set up - almost always changes at least to some degree as well.
Here’s the Zipp SL-70 and SL-80. If you just want to push the reach out a bit, change the stem.
I was thinking about this when I’ve looked at the bars side to side and I can’t figure out if I’ll like that sort of flatter section behind the hoods or not. I currently have the top of my shifter clamp at the top line on the 70 bars. When I’m out of the saddle I feel like the shifters are maybe too high as it bends my wrist awkwardly. I’ve wondered how the flatter section on the 80 would affect that.
Well, heck… try rolling the hoods farther down the bars you have now before you do anything else and see how that feels. You can pretty easily get an extra centimeter of reach just by doing that.
I set the drops at an angle I like. Usually with the bottoms down about 10 degrees.
I then position the hoods at the angle I like, normally 2-4 degrees up and fill any gap on the top (with bar tape) so it’s a straight transition from the bar, just like the horns would be on a tri-bar.
Like this:
You can then make fine adjustments to get the angle on the hoods you like by rotating the bar in the stem.
Different bars can have different reaches to the hoods, different amounts of drop, different widths.
Often when going to some aero bars, the reach to the hoods is pretty far versus a normal bar. This gives two “hoods” positions, one hands on hoods and one hands behind. With bar tops being even shorter reach.
So, bars can do that. But I’d consider both with focus on stem first, then bar.
Well, heck… try rolling the hoods farther down the bars you have now before you do anything else and see how that feels. You can pretty easily get an extra centimeter of reach just by doing that.
I did that. It felt…odd. I think I’ll try again but I wasn’t crazy about it.