I just got my scott plasma ltd back from Utah (it was getting its deraileur tab repaired) and im re-building it with a 3T ventus aerobar and ZIPP R2C shifters (got a killer deal on both). But my question is, do you think its a good or bad idea to install an inline barrel adjuster right as the cables exit the aerobars before going into the frame? I thought it would let me fine tune the shift quality easily without tools on a ride if cables start to stretch or if shift quality randomly takes a dive in a race (ask me how I know this ha ha).
The only thing is, I have never seen this done before… why?
If you are dead set on the R2C’s then this won’t help, but if you run your Shimano’s in friction mode you get custom tweakability in every gear, all the time. I am just used to it since the first bar ends were friction only, but think it’s the only way to go for me. To buy $300 shifters and then go back and get inline adjusters…meh…not for me when the good 'ol Shimano will do it right outta the box.
Old school friction mode obviously defeats the purpose of cable tension adjustment (unless its WAY out of spec). But when you have indexed shifting, cable tension is pretty critical to make sure they index correctly. I still have my dura-ace bar end shifters, but I really like the idea of the shifters returning to center.
Yup…this is exactly what I have been planning on installing for my Cervelo S2…the internal routing is WAY too much of a hassle to re-run the cables everytime I want to change between my road bars and a dedicated TT set up. I’ll toss the adjusters on between the bars and frame and just string the inner cables through when I switch.
On that note - any suggestions on sealing cable ends w/o using traditional cable tips? I know have heard soldering suggested, but need to have the cable tips able to thread through the housing w/ no issues. Worried that sodlering would cause to much of a lump at the end (at least given my soldering skills)?
I think I have heard of using Krzy Glue as well? has anyone tried that?
On that note - any suggestions on sealing cable ends w/o using traditional cable tips? I know have heard soldering suggested, but need to have the cable tips able to thread through the housing w/ no issues. Worried that sodlering would cause to much of a lump at the end (at least given my soldering skills)?
I think I have heard of using Krzy Glue as well? has anyone tried that?
I have NOT tried this, but I know that my cable ends pretty much fray the instant they are cut. So try either soldering or super gluing FIRST in the location of the cut.
FWIW, my guess is that solder would be easier to get lump-less than super glue. Because with the solder you can continue to apply heat until you’ve melted it in better and melted off any excess. But then after cutting you’d want to apply additional solder since a tight cable wouldn’t have absorbed much, if any, solder.
What you really need is a quick connect coupler setup. I wonder if they make those?
I use super glue to keep the cable from fraying. I then use heat shrink tubing (found in the electronics section of your hardware store) to cover the cable end.
I never had to use an in-line adjuster. Not once in my whole life, be it on my road bike on my TT bike. Front derailer has never needed adjustment. Rear derailer already has a barrel adjuster.
Soldering cable ends is somthing I have done since 1974. It is quick, easy, great for assy & disassembly, and will make cable last.
Lead free solder.
A good soldering iron.
Zinc Chloride flux. (clear liquid).
Acetone.
All available at Lowes/Menards/Home Depot.
Cut cable to length, either on the bike or off. Twist strands back into position if needed. Wipe with acetone. Use q-tip dipped in flux to saturate cable.
I use plastic condiment cups to squirt a little flux into for dipping the q-tip.
Load the soldering gun tip with some solder and apply to cable. If the cable was used, you may need to dab some more flux.
Any glob can be wiped clean with a shop towel after heating.
As with most things, practice makes perfect, so practice away on a used cable, or just get a cheap one.
I guess my thinking is just ‘stuck’ in friction mode…I have never had a shifting issue with friction in almost 24 years. I tried index when my original Shimano’s died which were friction only, but once it needed to be tweaked I thought, why on earth would I go to something that needs tweaking when I can do it perfectly in every gear? Disregard me I’m an old fart! On my roadie…DEF to some barrel adjusting, but typically on a blue moon. Would be nice to do on the fly, but it’s such a rare occurrence and I just stop, twist the barrel and roll on. I’d be happy with friction STI’s if there were such a thing.