I need a new road frame, how relevant is stack and reach?

First, I’m a huge fan of getting a bike fit and have done so on both my tri and road bikes. I now want to get a new frame but the Stack & Reach database for road bikes is pretty limited and I also wonder how relevant it is with a road bike. I love how my current road bike fits and I don’t want to end up getting a frame loaded with spacers or other crap and that’s where I’m a little leery of choices. Before I begin my search in earnest, I want to get a better understanding of a road position. Here’s my questions:

Does the Stack and Reach really matter that much on a road frame? I know I’m a “short and narrow” rider on a tri bike but the road geometry seems a lot different to different manufacturers on their sites. Some don’t even offer a stack & reach measurement.Are road frames more forgiving allowing me to have a wider range of choices?Anyone have a frame they really like and want to recommend? My stack is 600mm and the reach is 393mm.
I’ve got all of the Retul measurements if anyone wants them. Thanks in advance for the input and suggestions.

  1. Frame x,y don’t matter for any bike - they just define a method of measurement. And in themselves are only part of the picture.
  2. Depends on what your stem/spacer tolerance is.
  3. Lots of good frames in a viable size range.

Better to look at bar x,y - get away from millimetric specs of frame size. And allow a tolerance of a couple of mm on bar position.
Looking at my database there are 700 frames (yes - seven hundred) I could fit on using stem 110-130 and no more than 25mm of spacers (the number is inflated by models with shared geo and I can’t filter by only current model year yet) - position matched with radial tolerance of 3mm. My ideal frame somewhere around 400,585.

So x,y very useful for defining the range. But not something that narrows down your choices all that much unless you’re at the extremes or very fussy.

  1. yes, but your stack/reach needs may be different on your road bike than your tt bike.

  2. I think they are about the same forgiving, maybe less since you actually care if the handling goes crazy on a road bike more.

  3. Only aero, price, and looks matter, so that helps narrow it down

First, I’m a huge fan of getting a bike fit and have done so on both my tri and road bikes. I now want to get a new frame but the Stack & Reach database for road bikes is pretty limited and I also wonder how relevant it is with a road bike. I love how my current road bike fits and I don’t want to end up getting a frame loaded with spacers or other crap and that’s where I’m a little leery of choices. Before I begin my search in earnest, I want to get a better understanding of a road position. Here’s my questions:

Does the Stack and Reach really matter that much on a road frame? I know I’m a “short and narrow” rider on a tri bike but the road geometry seems a lot different to different manufacturers on their sites. Some don’t even offer a stack & reach measurement.Are road frames more forgiving allowing me to have a wider range of choices?Anyone have a frame they really like and want to recommend? My stack is 600mm and the reach is 393mm.
I’ve got all of the Retul measurements if anyone wants them. Thanks in advance for the input and suggestions.

The stack & reach are for my road position. My tri position is actually a lot different.

Thanks for the thoughts on the road position. It makes sense on the handling part so I’ll try and stay as close to what I’ve got now.

Forgive the possible mistaken assumption I’m about to make with this follow-up question but you’re basically saying that you allow =/- 20 on reach and =/-25 on stack with stem length and spacers?

Is this database of frames readily available? The ST database is great for tri but really lacking for road frames.

Finally, what would you be looking at if I were you?

Thanks for the help!

Forgive the possible mistaken assumption I’m about to make with this follow-up question but you’re basically saying that you allow =/- 20 on reach and =/-25 on stack with stem length and spacers?

For the example above it’s a 120mm stem ± 10mm, angles of -17,-10,-8,-6 - which gives a fair stack range
Then spacers of 8-25mm (includes headset top cover) - so sort of 15 ± 10mm
It’s a fairly narrow range but I get a lot of options because I suit a standard race geometry.

Is this database of frames readily available?

No. But I can run some numbers if you ask nicely.

Finally, what would you be looking at if I were you?

I’ve got a Felt AR1 58 on the way… You need a bike a little taller than I do so Cervelo R3 or S2/3/5 would suit nicely. Neil Pryde Alize XL another good option. But it depends on what you have and what your full fit coordinates are.

Okay, this is starting to make more sense and, yes, maybe a couple more options would be nice.

Ask nicely… You’re seat is definitely NOT too high?!?

you’ve got the stack and reach for the frame, here’s a few more from the Retul output I got from my fitter. I can probably stand to get a little lower if needed but I’m pretty much all legs. My current frame is a 2008 Trek Madone “performance fit”:

Handlebar stack (bb to center of bar), 654
Handlebar reach (bb to center of bar), 489
Saddle height, 798Handlebar reach (tip of saddle to bar top), 580
BB to grip reach (bb to front end of grip), 735

Thanks for the schooling, all the info has been great!

trek madone size 58 H2/E2 fit will be really close for you. For the madone H2/E2, the stack is 59.6mm and reach 39.1mm. I’m a tall and narrow guy (long inseam and short torso) and do find stack and reach important on a road bike. I have an older madone, 2012 6.9SSL and love it since it fits, even if not very “exclusive.”

Yep, that’s what I’m on right now, H2, vintage 2008. I like it and will buy another if needed but I wanted to get a better idea of other choices before I head back down that path.

Okay, this is starting to make more sense and, yes, maybe a couple more options would be nice.

Ask nicely… You’re seat is definitely NOT too high?!?

you’ve got the stack and reach for the frame, here’s a few more from the Retul output I got from my fitter. I can probably stand to get a little lower if needed but I’m pretty much all legs. My current frame is a 2008 Trek Madone “performance fit”:

Handlebar stack (bb to center of bar), 654
Handlebar reach (bb to center of bar), 489
Saddle height, 798Handlebar reach (tip of saddle to bar top), 580
BB to grip reach (bb to front end of grip), 735

Thanks for the schooling, all the info has been great!

To this, you may way to add reach to the hoods, not just the center of the bar. Sorry, was that what you meant by bb to grip reach?

Also, if you’re riding Campy shifters, a lift longer stem may be in order - I’ve noticed a tendency with Campy riders to choke up a little in order to have their thumbs in position to shift.

hth

I bet you would look good on a 7 series madone!!

Okay, this is starting to make more sense and, yes, maybe a couple more options would be nice.

Many. Locate your fit points xy, insert the frame, and then figure out what you need to do with stem, seatpost and bars to connect the dots. Pretty basic geometry. Maybe cyclenutnz has a user friendly program.

I’ve got it pretty well figured out. The stack & reach seem somewhat important but at some point the length of the seat tube becomes an issue for the setback component on a shorter frame.

I’m now working my way through a bunch of websites, all with the best bikes ever created just for my pleasure.

http://i58.tinypic.com/34gkbhg.png

Some options that would suit your position quite nicely.

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Wow, that is a really cool program!

Thanks for all of the help. This gives me a really good idea of the flexibility I have and how to manipulate the geometry.

All the best!