I signed up for StG since this is the last year. I have been afraid of this course because I suck in the hills, both bike and run, but I got talked into it so no turning back now.
I’ve known I’m slow in the hills for a long time. Going up, of course, everybody is fast coming down.
As strong as my legs are, I’m a little surprised by this. But some of it is just my weight. I really need to lose about 20 pounds (or more ). Fully kitted out at the start of a distance event, I’m tipping the scales at close to 190 pounds. That’s me, the bike with my tool kit and two bottles of water.
Some of it is my gearing, and I know that. going to try and swap out my chain rings before StG. Even so, I’m still slow. I get passed by just about everybody on everything. So frustrating.
Part of the problem is I live in a valley. I have some routes that get me some elevation, but not really steep stuff. 4-5* is about the steepest I get without having to drive someplace for a training ride.
Today I did just that. Drove out to the Red Rock scenic route and loop just outside of Vegas. Did a 40 mile route with a total of 3100’ of elevation gain. Took me almost 2:40, and that was with some really fast descents.
This route is as close as I can replicate to the elevation gain I’m seeing in StG. I’m notoriously bad in the run (worst event. Hey, I’m just a MOP age grouper) so I need an absolute minimum of 3 hours for the run just to be sure I’ll finish.
Based on the ride this morning, I’ll only have another 300 feet of gain over an additional 16 miles in StG. Of course, the big difference is I’m going to have to leave something in the tank for the run.
I haven’t done StG, but I lived and rode in the mountains of Colorado for 10 years. With a ride uphill that long, it becomes about cadence, and power management. You can’t force your way up a really long hill—you just have to settle into steady state within your power limits and ride it out (pun intended).
Get your gearing right, so that you don’t have to drop into the really low cadence range too often. Honestly that’s the best thing you can do at this stage. What’s your current gearing?
Your course sim looks really solid, compared to StG. Getting 3100’ in 40 miles, with a 10 mile / 2000’ climb in the middle is pretty good. Doing that another time or two should give you some good confidence going into the race.
Maybe combine it with a 4mi brick, so you get a feel for how your legs are going to be after all the climbing with your selected gearing.
I think your ride looks good, and with some gearing you will have a great race!
I need to fix my gearing if I’m taking this bike. My Shiv has 52/36 up front and it’s definitely better for climbing, but slower everywhere else. The bike I plan to take is my Cervelo P2. It’s an older model but it’s faster than that Shiv, except on the climbs. It has 54/39 with 170 cranks. I was looking tonight and I’m having a hard time finding FSA chainrings in that 52/36 combination.
I wish I had sustained 4-5% climbs anywhere in my area! I don’t know if it’s going to help, but low cadence repeats at tempo/sweet spot intensity (7-12’ repeats) are a decent proxy for hill climbs and help with strength endurance.
If it’s an older crankset with a 130 bolt center diameter, you can’t put that combination on it. The smallest chainring that will fit on a 130 is a 38.
The aero differences between the frames should not be the #1 consideration, provided your position is fairly similar between the bikes—the frames aren’t THAT different (if they both have good positions). I’d choose the bike based on the better gearing options—which sounds like the Shiv (it has the better small ring).
Further, I’d look at your rear cassette options for the Shiv and try one with the biggest cog that will fit with your rear derailleur (presumable a short-cage). I’d optimize the cogs for climbing rather than descending—letting the bike spin-out a little early won’t hurt your bike-leg, nearly as much as grinding away at 40rpm with bad low-end gearing will scrafice your run-leg.
If there are significant differences in you position between the bikes, I’d get the Shiv to match your P2 position to minimize the aero differences (assuming the P2 has the better position).
The nice thing is it’s easy for me to swap wheels between the two bikes. Right now, I have my 41mm wheels on the P2. That’s the same set I had on the Shiv for IMAZ. I have a “climbing” cassette on that drive wheel. I think it’s a 30 tooth, which is about as big as I can fit with the short cage derailleurs that are on both bikes.
I’m going to spend some time this weekend trying to match the geometry of the P2. Tomorrow I’m going to do a BRICK of a route with about a 4* incline. It isn’t very long, only about 1/2 a mile, but I’m planning four loops of this route for a total of 16 miles, then one run loop of four miles. We shall see how that goes.
I don’t have a power-based trainer, and I really dislike trainers anyway. As for strength training, most of my strength training is upper body but I do some plyometric exercises.
I’d recommend getting over your dislike for trainers if you live in the flat and want to progress on hills. I live in a city and I’d thought only outside is free but the truth is, a trainer is a great complement to riding outside. The miles I get in after work is what makes me fast, not my weekend rides.
well, I think you found the answer to your own dilemma. if you’re seeking performance and need to become stronger and fitter in order to conquer hills then the tools are pretty clear. what is it that you dislike about trainers? the issue is likely that you don’t have a structured plan that educates you and keeps you challenged and engaged. it’s obvious that if you sit on the trainer with no structure that is specific to you and your goals then you’re going to be bored and you’re going to get random results. random training leads to random results and the last thing you want to do is show up to St George not knowing if you’re prepared. as for strength training, you need to teach your body to be able to produce force. there is very little to no strength adaptation when completing plyometrics and most people think that jumping on a box is plyometrics. gotta rethink your approach so that you’ll be confident heading into race day.
Since you can swap wheels (and cassettes between bikes), if you also can swap out the front chainrings (or have a bike shop do it), then you’d easily have your climbing gearing from your Shiv on your P2. Wouldn’t have to buy anything new if so.
Assuming bolt patterns are compatible etc. But a shop can give you an immediate answer, and do the swap easily.
Others have mentioned trying to swap chainrings, which might help. Do you know what diameter spindle each crank has? You might just be able to swap the cranks themselves. I’m guessing one crank is FSA, so it likely has a 24mm spindle. This means its compatible with shimano cranks and some rotor cranks. Not compatible with sram cranks.
My understanding is the Cervelo and the Shiv use two different bottom brackets. Over the winter, I tried to remove the crank from the Cervelo but the non-drive side crank arm is on there so tight I’m going to have to take it to somebody. I can’t remove it without screwing something up.
At this point, I’m too close to StG to start messing with the bike. I’m riding the Shiv for StG. I’ll hash that stuff out over the summer.
). Fully kitted out at the start of a distance event, I’m tipping the scales at close to 190 pounds. That’s me, the bike with my tool kit and two bottles of water.