How to remove/install presta value

Triathlon Forum
1

Bummer, flatted out and don’t have XYZ tool to remove and install presta value. What do I need to get?
a 3mm hex wrench? The “manual” assumes you know how to do this, false.

I need to remove the valve, attach an extension on the tube and install valve in extension.

Any good links to instructions you have found would be appreciated.

Some say “Using your valve stem removal tool”, but places like performance don’t have anything.
or “Valve core removal tool”, but again no hits for presta.

Thank you.

2

Try some needle nose pliers.

3

Ok, thank you for the suggestion
.

4

Why do you need to remove the valve core to change the flat? Or are you trying to remove it to add sealant?

+1 on the needle nose. But also note that not all presta valves have a removable core.

5

Why? Tubes don’t come with long enough extensions for sram S80’s. Guess I need to ask when buy tubes, if they have removable valves.

Perhaps that’s the problem, I have the wrong valve in the tube.

6

Why? Tubes don’t come with long enough extensions for sram S80’s. Guess I need to ask when buy tubes, if they have removable valves.

Perhaps that’s the problem, I have the wrong valve in the tube.

Get Topeak valve extenders. Then you don’t have to deal with removable cores or teflon tape.

7

You don’t need to remove the valve but you will need valve extensions.
Any brand will likely do; I have these http://www.zipp.com/accessories/detail.php?ID=120
I believe you will need the 72 mm for your S80s

First open the valve like you would prior to inflating it.
Use a pair of pliers to open it a bit further and lock it in place.
Wrap Teflon tape around the top section of the valve.
Screw on the extension with your hand and then give it an extra ¼ turn with a 3mm hex head.

FYI – you might want to include a small 3 mm hex head in your flat kit

8

The vittoria valve extensions, that require you to remove the core, are more reliable than the style like Zipp that leave the core in the original stem. I have had the original core come loose and start to close before - A real pita on a tubular.

9

Again, appreciate the advise. I didn’t think of installing over the top of tube valve.

10

Google’ing “presta core remover” produces several products…

Fancy anodized “tube” for $8.50.
http://www.notubes.com/product_info.php/cPath/21_60/products_id/327
http://www.notubes.com/images/core_info.jpg

Or the “OC” shaped, cheap, fix-a-hundred-in-your-saddle-bag… $1.50
http://www.tufotires.com/valve_core_removal_tool.htm
http://www.tufotires.com/valve_tool1.jpg

11

Google’ing “presta core remover” produces several products…

Fancy anodized “tube” for $8.50.
http://www.notubes.com/...1_60/products_id/327
http://www.notubes.com/images/core_info.jpg

Or the “OC” shaped, cheap, fix-a-hundred-in-your-saddle-bag… $1.50
http://www.tufotires.com/...ore_removal_tool.htm
http://www.tufotires.com/valve_tool1.jpg

The problem was in not understanding the difference between tubes. You are probably versed, but for those who are not

Tube type A- simple 2 parts
metal extender from tube
small upside down nut, the part that you turn to lock/unlock the valve

Tube type B- 3 parts
metal exender from tube
small threaded value with threads cut off on 2 sides for wrench/pliers attachment
small upside down nut, the part that you turn to lock/unlock the valve

An extender can be put on Tube B but not on Tube A. I had one Tube A I was trying to remove the value from. No can do, period.
Some extenders can be screwed on top on value, and just leave it mostly open. A “solution” used by SRAM. Don’t like so going to use
physical extenders.

Also, in case anyone else is looking. The tubes with 80mm extenders DO NOT work with SRAM S80 wheels. They are still just a tad too short.

Another problem with the tube market. Most “regular” tubes are of type A and only the more expensive, light tubes are of type B.
One tech suggested using tubeless tires. I don’t know if he meant tubulars or a tire between clinchers and tubulars.

I’ll probably order one of those parts you provided images of, as they are lighter than pliers. Thanks again for the update.

12

I don’t think your explanation is terribly clear, but I think I get the jist…

There are two types of valve extensions to go with the two types of inner tubes…

Yes, most clincher tubes, especially lower priced, are of the NON-removable valve core (NRVC) type. Many/most valve extensions are built for these tubes, including from Zipp. Take a pair of pliers, “lock” open the tube’s lock nut, add some teflon tape to seal to the tube’s thread and screw the extension on OVER the valve core. Theses are also referred as “blow and go”. Place the tire pump or CO2 inflator over the extension, blow, then ride off… nothing else to do. You can’t reach the nut to loosen it before adding air, nor tighten it after pumping it up. The air in the extension is NOT pressurized. You need a long, thin (2mm?) allen wrench, or equivalent stiff wire/coat hanger, to stick down the center of the extension to deflate the tire.

Yes, some clincher tubes, almost always in the more expensive price range, have a removable valve core (RVC)… This does not imply that spending more on a tube guarantees to get a removable core. As seen in my second picture above, from Tufo, the valve extension has male threads and an o-ring to screw into the inner tube once the valve core has been removed. The other end has female threads for the valve core to screw into. These extensions can be “stacked”… if one isn’t long enough, screw in a second before adding the valve core back to the top of the stack. The air in the extension(s) IS pressurized. Since the valve core is at the top, the lock nut can be loosened to pump the tire/tube, then tightened and “locked” to keep the air pressure in.
Additionally, if needed, NRVC extensions can be used instead of, or even in addition to, RVC extensions. However, since you went through the effort to get RVC tubes and RVC extensions, why would you throw out the benefit of keeping the core/lock nut accessible by covering it up with a NRVC extension, unless in an emergency? Or trying to get the 0.0001 w aero advantage because the tip of the NRVC extension is smaller and smoother than the valve core’s lock nut?

Tubeless versus tubular… As the name implies, tubeLESS does not need an inner tube. The clincher style tire seals to the rim. This requires rims built for tubeLESS tires. The spoke holes need to be sealed, and a valve tube is attached to the rim. TubeLESS tires have been getting popular on mountain bikes for the past several years.
Tubular, often abbreviated “tubies” (pronounced “too-bees”, not “tub-ees”), is a tire sewn around an inner tube. This tire is glued to a tubular specific wheel/rim. Tubulars are generally more expensive than clincher + tube, and requires more skill to install properly compared to a clincher (don’t pinch the tube between the tire bead and rim). Tubulars are generally only found on higher end road bikes including time trial bikes/wheels.

Joe

13

You definitely have a better description and understanding. It’s much harder to describe without finding images to go along with the discussions.

Now at least I know both what to buy for next time, and thanks to you, why.