So I love my Cervelo P2SL but the one problem that I always seem to have with it is that after two weeks of riding or so the electrical tape on the ends of the aerobars begin to unravel. This of course is rather bothersome to me because here I have this aerodynamic bike and then I end up riding with loose electrical tape flying around. I’ve re-wrapped the electrical tape a few times and have even purchased new bar tape just to see if that would help. Still no matter how tight I try to wrap the electrical tape it still unravels eventually. I’m not particularly sweaty, rough on the aerobars, or anything like that it just seems like the heat and moisture that sometimes builds up when riding causes the electrical tape to lose its strength. Does anyone have any recommendations?
Super 33 - the only tape in the house…or on the bike. Scotch make it.
First wraps tight (stretch), last loop don’t stretch. Or use plastic type rape…3m makes some nice stuff and it comes in an array of colors.
I can’t say for sure what’s going on because my tape never comes off.
- Clean and dry bars before applying.
- Use Scotch Super 33 tape.
- Don’t stretch the tape when you apply it.
- Orient the tape so that as you wrap the tape goes away from center as it goes over the tops of the bars. This is because you natural tendency is to twist your hands outward. If your tape is orientated correctly it will tighten itself when you twist.
apply tape sticky side down
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You say the “ends” of your areo bars, you mean you started the wrap at the ends with the shifters, and tape off the section closest to the stem, right? Otherwise that could be a problem. I’ve be thinking about using short sections of inner tube instead of tape. Just slide it on before I wrap, then stretch it over the bar tape ends. Solves the problem, at least in theory 
hockey tape, not slippery when wet, does not unravel, frays a bit initially, but that is it
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Yes! Hockey tape is the answer. It lasts a long time and doesn’t get slippery when wet.
apply tape sticky side down
That was helpful
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First of all don’t buy cheap electrical tape from a dollar store…2nd talk to a electrician…they have the godda when it comes to tape, no matter what the color is
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First of all don’t buy cheap electrical tape from a dollar store…2nd talk to a electrician…they have the godda when it comes to tape, no matter what the color is
+1
I used cheap electrical tape once, its all I could find in a rush when making some adjustments. Sucked big time. In the heat, it started to melt, unglue. Now use higher quality tape–3M/Scotch/Super 33 stuff is so much better. No issues with it peeling off.
start wrapping from the basebar end and tape at the shifters.
cut (don’t stretch and rip) the electrical tape carefully when you take it off the roll, and don’t over stretch it when you apply it, especially in the last inch or so when you press down the end.
(you were asking for the sticky side down response. the devil on my shoulder had me wanting to post that you should put duct tape over the electrical tape, because duct tape can fix anything. . .or staple the electrical tape down. . .)
andrew moss
I’ve always been curious about how well heat shrink tubing would work for this. It doesn’t seem super grippy, but no less than electrical tape would be. Self-fusing electrical tape might be another option. It’s not adhesive at all, except to itself. Once you wrap it and squeeze it, it bonds into one solid piece.
You should have seen me during the Providence 70.3 race. My tape and grip on my aerobars were dangling like streamers on a kid’s bike. I ended up ripping the the grip stuff off and riding naked. Add in a flat on mile 16 that cost me 40+ minutes and it was a less than ideal day at the races.
If you needed 40 mins to change a flat, you’ve got worse problems than tape sticking properly.
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Hijack cont.
I switched to tubular race tires last year. I didn’t bring a spare tube as I don’t own one (I know, my fault). I had slime in the tube, but it didn’t work when I attempted to re-inflate the tire. I then waited for the support car to make his rounds. He gave me a wheel so that I could finish the race.
I’ve done 3 HIMs and had bike issues on all 3. Both WTC events were flat tires ( 2010 Miami: 11 minutes lost to change my inner tube, Providence: 40+) and the other was a dropped chain (only a couple of seconds though). Hence my signature line.
First wraps tight (stretch), last loop don’t stretch. Or use plastic type rape…3m makes some nice stuff and it comes in an array of colors.