How to get a beam torque wrench to remove cassette

Triathlon Forum
1

Simple question here, but surprisingly hard for me to find an easy answer.

I am installing a new 105 cassette onto a new set of carbon wheels with Shimano hub. I’ve done this many times before WITHOUT a torque wrench, and I swear, I either put it on too loose (which ends up getting spline damage to the hub from hard pedaling) or too tight (near-impossible to remove).

I’m fed up enough with it that I want to use a torque wrench for the cassette to get it to correct spec every time.

My quandary - I have a very standard generic beam-type torque wrench that goes from 20N-m to 100+ (I think the cassette torque is 40) and it has a 1/2" as well as 3/8" square head for sockets.

I’m looking for a lockring removal tool that will accept this 1/2" head. My Park Tool Fr 5.2 does not accept any of the sockets I have in a fairly extensive automotive socket set (it’s too big for even the 1.8cm largest socket.)

If someone could point me to the correct lockring removal tool (or other if my beam torque wrench simply won’t work), would be greatly appreciated.

PS - Yes, I’m anticipating that 100 people will attempt to convince me that I do NOT need a torque wrench for the cassette. I get your point, I believe you can do it for yourself, but I STILL want to do it with a torque wrench.

2

Like this kind of thing - https://www.rutlandcycling.com/accessories/tools/cyclepro-cassette-lockring-remover-12-inch_98591 ?

3

Simple question here, but surprisingly hard for me to find an easy answer.

I am installing a new 105 cassette onto a new set of carbon wheels with Shimano hub. I’ve done this many times before WITHOUT a torque wrench, and I swear, I either put it on too loose (which ends up getting spline damage to the hub from hard pedaling) or too tight (near-impossible to remove).

I’m fed up enough with it that I want to use a torque wrench for the cassette to get it to correct spec every time.

My quandary - I have a very standard generic beam-type torque wrench that goes from 20N-m to 100+ (I think the cassette torque is 40) and it has a 1/2" as well as 3/8" square head for sockets.

I’m looking for a lockring removal tool that will accept this 1/2" head. My Park Tool Fr 5.2 does not accept any of the sockets I have in a fairly extensive automotive socket set (it’s too big for even the 1.8cm largest socket.)

If someone could point me to the correct lockring removal tool (or other if my beam torque wrench simply won’t work), would be greatly appreciated.

PS - Yes, I’m anticipating that 100 people will attempt to convince me that I do NOT need a torque wrench for the cassette. I get your point, I believe you can do it for yourself, but I STILL want to do it with a torque wrench.

No idea on the wrench, but a different question. why do you think that not torqueing the cassette is causing spline damage? IMO, that’s more of a function of the cassette body material and the design of the cassette. individual cogs are more likely to cause damage than if they’re mounted on a carrier, especially if it’s an aluminium cassette body.

4

I’m sure it’s the looseness that contributes to spline damage.

I noticed this first when I used to always really lock down hard that lockring, and the splines were nearly perfect. Then, after a particularly stuck effort, I put on the lockring only moderately tight - only a medium light force on the wrench. The next time I removed the cassette for cleaning about 3 months later, it had big dents throughout all the splines - I could actually feel the dents when I was pedaling as the cassette would ‘bounce’ into place. I did more damage to the splines in 3 months of not-that-much riding than I did in 3 years prior to that with a LOT more riding.

Searches on the interwebz also confirm this has happened to others.

But I agree that spline material matters as well. Soft stuff obviously will wear faster. But I had the same hub in all cases.

5

The Park FR5 takes a 1" socket. I don’t know the difference between the FR5 and the FR5.2, but I doubt if the drive head is different.

Just about any hardware store sells 1/2" drive 1" sockets. If you want to be sure take the adapter with you.

6

“How to get a beam torque wrench to remove cassette”

It is likely that you will break the torque wrench if you use it to remove a cassette.

7

Simple question here, but surprisingly hard for me to find an easy answer.

I am installing a new 105 cassette onto a new set of carbon wheels with Shimano hub. I’ve done this many times before WITHOUT a torque wrench, and I swear, I either put it on too loose (which ends up getting spline damage to the hub from hard pedaling) or too tight (near-impossible to remove).

I’m fed up enough with it that I want to use a torque wrench for the cassette to get it to correct spec every time.

My quandary - I have a very standard generic beam-type torque wrench that goes from 20N-m to 100+ (I think the cassette torque is 40) and it has a 1/2" as well as 3/8" square head for sockets.

I’m looking for a lockring removal tool that will accept this 1/2" head. My Park Tool Fr 5.2 does not accept any of the sockets I have in a fairly extensive automotive socket set (it’s too big for even the 1.8cm largest socket.)

If someone could point me to the correct lockring removal tool (or other if my beam torque wrench simply won’t work), would be greatly appreciated.

PS - Yes, I’m anticipating that 100 people will attempt to convince me that I do NOT need a torque wrench for the cassette. I get your point, I believe you can do it for yourself, but I STILL want to do it with a torque wrench.

No idea on the wrench, but a different question. why do you think that not torqueing the cassette is causing spline damage? IMO, that’s more of a function of the cassette body material and the design of the cassette. individual cogs are more likely to cause damage than if they’re mounted on a carrier, especially if it’s an aluminium cassette body.

I agree wirh this. Its the steel individual cassette rings gouging into the far softer alu freehub body.
ALL my wheels have indents on the freehubs (except those with steel freehib bodies). And I use a torque wrench all the time.

For a tool to fit - i went and just bought a big socket the right size for the cassette removal tool from an auto parts shop. Its lived witrh the removal tool for about 10-15 years now .

8

Yeah I will use a normal socket wrench to remove but torque to mount
.