Trying to replace my derailleur cables in a 2011 Cervelo S3. You route the cables from the top (no removable piece on the down tube).
I can get one cable to come out the BB area but the other one seems to “climb up” somewhere in the down tube, never to be seen at the hole beneath the BB.
I’m able to do either one or the other - rear D or front D but both seem impossible.
Thanks!
I’ve got an S2 2009. Recabled recently…tricky.
Made a hook on end of an old spoke and used that to reach up in the hole under the bottom bracket to grab the cable. Patience is required and a flashlight !
Good luck
Trying to replace my derailleur cables in a 2011 Cervelo S3. You route the cables from the top (no removable piece on the down tube).
I can get one cable to come out the BB area but the other one seems to “climb up” somewhere in the down tube, never to be seen at the hole beneath the BB.
I’m able to do either one or the other - rear D or front D but both seem impossible.
Thanks!
Two words.
Shop Vac.
-SD
I’m going to try the same when I get home today, but on my Shiv. I have an idea of using some old cable to create a loop which I can catch the cable with. Not sure how this will work out.
Shop Vac. Ok, great idea!
Will try again tomorrow; otherwise, off to the LBS!
Getting too old for this.
Shop Vac. Ok, great idea!
Will try again tomorrow; otherwise, off to the LBS!
Getting too old for this.
Set the bike up so the downtube cable entry and cable exit are perfectly vertical, also. Use a stand or prop the front end of the bicycle up on something so the cable is less apt to get hung up on anything inside the tube. I just re-cabled an S3 last week and had the same experience you did. The first shifter cable through was a breeze, the 2nd not so much.
Good luck.
-SD
Hi twain,
Lots of possibilities. Good light and a spoke hook are what I use. As Dave mentioned, orient the bike so gravity is your friend.
As far as the cable curling away from the exit hole (usually into the seat tube), consider gently twisting the cable to make the curl work for you rather than against you.
But in the end, good light and the spoke hook are the two tools that make the job easier for me.
By the way, the reason we routed the cables into the top tube is to save a big chunk of drag. When we added the cables there, the drag actually went down compared to the bare bike (without any derailleur cables). We call the strategic entry point “aero cable management.” http://www.cervelo.com/en/engineering/core-design-features/aero-cable-management.html
Cheers,
$20 and a trip to the LBS.
I did that this week.
$20 and a trip to the LBS.
I did that this week.
This. Pay The Man.
Some things just aren’t worth the hassle to DIY.
I’ve got an S2 2009. Recabled recently…tricky.
Made a hook on end of an old spoke and used that to reach up in the hole under the bottom bracket to grab the cable. Patience is required and a flashlight !
Good luck
Yup…although I use a old wire clothes hanger straighten it out, put a small hook in one end. Extend it up into the down tube from below, twist it around a few times if necessary to hook the cable and then bring it back out.
Recalling a bike should be a chore that you learn. Not very hard (once you learn the tricks) and it will save you $$$$.
I agree with others. I have recabled my SLC several times over the years and about to do it again. I have always been able to get the cable out without any tools. I have the bike in the stand and tilted just the right way to help and I always put a little bend in the end of the cable and rotate the cable just so slightly. Gravity is your friend when recabling this bike or flying down hills. I hate gravity while climbing.
I have a 2010. A lot of trial and error. The cable will inevitably want to point off to some direction, preventing it from going straight down. Try twisting/turning the cable as you feed it down, eventually you will manage to get it to make its way underneath the BB shell. Can try using a magnet too. Once you get the cable down in that area, can use needle nose pliers to try to grab it.
By the way, the reason we routed the cables into the top tube is to save a big chunk of drag. When we added the cables there, the drag actually went down compared to the bare bike (without any derailleur cables). We call the strategic entry point “aero cable management.” http://www.cervelo.com/...able-management.html
Sooo…what you’re saying is that the drag on my S5 will go UP if I go from my current SRAM Red setup to the future wireless model? 
If you’re re-cabling (as opposed to building up), never pull an old cable off without attaching something to it (tape string or fishing line or thread to it) before you pull it out and discard it. I had to tighten my TRP RL970 brake insert - requires removing the cable. Not much clearance to haul it back through. Wire + sewing thread + cable. But a lot of swearing was also required.
…
By the way, the reason we routed the cables into the top tube is to save a big chunk of drag. When we added the cables there, the drag actually went down compared to the bare bike (without any derailleur cables). We call the strategic entry point “aero cable management.” http://www.cervelo.com/...able-management.html
Cheers,
So why does the new S3 have the cables going in on the side again??
On my 2008 SLC SL bike, I just feed the cable gently and shine a super bright light on the bottom bracket hole and once I see the cable, I fish it out with a pair if needle nose pliers.
$20 and a trip to the LBS.
I did that this week.
This. Pay The Man.
Some things just aren’t worth the hassle to DIY.
Yeh done this in the past…and often been less than satisfied e.g. housings wrong length, wrong color, poor indexing etc. When I add up the time and money it takes getting a bike shop to do it I figured I’d be better off doing it myself. Next time will be a breeze.
Hi gibson00,
Bonding in the stainless guide tubes needed for routing the cables in through the top tube adds cost and weight. The Cervelo S5 and S5VWD include this feature, but the S3 and S2 save the cost and weight by routing the cables in through the down tube.
Cheers,
Damon-what does it “look like” in the 2011 S3?
Meaning, there are plastic cable liners that exit at the top tube but what do they butt up against in the down tube?
And if the cable liners have been pulled up, is there an issue with them “seating” properly again?
BTW, I think it’s awesome that you are responding on ST, along with the gentleman from Felt.
Very cool.
I am about to recable a 2008 P3C. Will I run into the same difficulties? I am wondering if I should attach a strong to the old cable as I pull it out. Assume this would work on the S3 in question here next time the owner recables?