Have there been studies showing how much power you lose using MTB spd pedals vs spd-sl pedals?
I have the favero pedals which are great but no way I would use them on my gravel rides. But with the new sram spd power pedals coming out it would be nice to have one set of power pedals
None.
I think your biggest limiter would be your shoes. a large number of mtb shoes are intended to have a little flex, but some high end xc or cross type shoes should be plenty fine
I second the answer, none.
what ever you do, DO NOT put SPD MTB cleats on road shoes, this is a bad idea. The MTB cleats are meant to have the support of the side bars found on MTB shoes and are not designed for the flat sole of a road shoe and so they are not optimal and could lead to issues if you are looking at power and performance. But as said above, a really stiff MTB performance shoe should have similar lack of flex to a good road shoe. There are differences in the weight etc but again that is the sole and maybe at the high end of things they get closer together but a MTB shoe is typically heavier than the similar model in road.
what ever you do, DO NOT put SPD MTB cleats on road shoes, this is a bad idea. The MTB cleats are meant to have the support of the side bars found on MTB shoes and are not designed for the flat sole of a road shoe and so they are not optimal and could lead to issues if you are looking at power and performance. But as said above, a really stiff MTB performance shoe should have similar lack of flex to a good road shoe. There are differences in the weight etc but again that is the sole and maybe at the high end of things they get closer together but a MTB shoe is typically heavier than the similar model in road.
Thanks. Good tip. I wasn’t planning to do that but thanks for adding that tip.
also, I dont think too many road shoes even have the two mounting holes necessary for mtb SPD’s anymore
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what ever you do, DO NOT put SPD MTB cleats on road shoes, this is a bad idea. The MTB cleats are meant to have the support of the side bars found on MTB shoes and are not designed for the flat sole of a road shoe and so they are not optimal and could lead to issues if you are looking at power and performance. But as said above, a really stiff MTB performance shoe should have similar lack of flex to a good road shoe. There are differences in the weight etc but again that is the sole and maybe at the high end of things they get closer together but a MTB shoe is typically heavier than the similar model in road.
The standard crank brothers egg-beaters don’t have any extra support from any bars.
the bars (made of rubber) are on the sole of the shoe not the cleats… one on each side of the cleat. they provide support for the small cleat. Look at the sole of the mtb shoe.
also related to weight for instance the Giro Empire mtb is about 140 g (I assume per shoe) heavier than the road version so that is rotating mass and this can impact power since you have to move this mass around in circles…
Having looked at a few tests on GCN and other places then I tried, for a lark racing Tri in MB shoes with spd’s.
Bear in mind that my power output might at best be half of a true road bikers capability.
MB shoes are easier to walk/run in, so mounting and dismounting is a breeze.
I have always put my shoes on in T1, and Race mounts are faster, because you can do a one pedal, leg over, without slipping.
I regularly run past a bunch of people trying to get mounted or trying to get their feet in after starting clipped in.
In T2 I can stop on the line and hop off while still moving. And don’t have to spend the last K untying, taking my feet out and coasting.
sdp pedals are usually 2 sided, so you might even gain a few more seconds clipping in…
I also find they unclip better/faster, so the embarrassing “topple” doesn’t happen so often.
Power loss is minimal (if any) I have tried on matching courses to find a difference.
And another bonus is if you have a problem (like a mechanical you can’t fix) on an isolated ride you can walk (even jog) on MB shoes.
If manufacturers made a lightweight, (non leather) MB shoe that didn’t cost the earth I would buy them in an instant.
Perhaps I don’t understand what you mean by “side bars”
Could you explain some more or provide a picture?
Perhaps I don’t understand what you mean by “side bars”
Could you explain some more or provide a picture?
Hi I tried to post a picture of it but it did not seem to upload … anyhow if you look at say the Giro empire mtb shoe on their site, and then look at the sole there is a raised rubber section that runs along the length of the area where you would attach the cleat to the shoe (along the outer edge of the fore foot of the shoe). These are on either side of the cleat. These are the bars I am referring to. Road shoes are a simple flat sole.
Perhaps I don’t understand what you mean by “side bars”
Could you explain some more or provide a picture?
Hi I tried to post a picture of it but it did not seem to upload … anyhow if you look at say the Giro empire mtb shoe on their site, and then look at the sole there is a raised rubber section that runs along the length of the area where you would attach the cleat to the shoe (along the outer edge of the fore foot of the shoe). These are on either side of the cleat. These are the bars I am referring to. Road shoes are a simple flat sole.
MTB shoes perform quite well after the rubber sidebars have worn away, they are not required for the pedal interface and often have to be cut away to allow the cleat to clip into the pedal.
I have a pair of MTB shoes at the moment with absolutely no rubber left anywhere, it looks like a road sole and it works with the pedals just fine.
The MTB cleats float much freer than road cleats in shimano stuff.
Haven’t seen any studies but unless you’re counting seconds in a race, I can’t imagine there is a huge loss in power.
The idea that it’s getting dangerous in transition because of slipping has me thinking about mtb shoes also. SPDSL cleats have small rubber pads that are insufficient for any traction, Look cleats are basically ice skates. These cleats are designed for cyclists, not triathletes running with a bike in transition. Don’t know why companies haven’t added a Tri/road cycling shoe with spd recessed cleats.
The idea that it’s getting dangerous in transition because of slipping has me thinking about mtb shoes also. SPDSL cleats have small rubber pads that are insufficient for any traction, Look cleats are basically ice skates. These cleats are designed for cyclists, not triathletes running with a bike in transition.
Don’t know why companies haven’t added a Tri/road cycling shoe with spd recessed cleats.
Me too
I have xtr pedals on my cross bike that now has a set of 303 hoops that I use all of the time on road rides with road tires. As stated above, you need to buy extremely stiff shoes and you will be fine. Don’t skimp on mtb/cross shoes.
Perhaps I don’t understand what you mean by “side bars”
Could you explain some more or provide a picture?
Hi I tried to post a picture of it but it did not seem to upload … anyhow if you look at say the Giro empire mtb shoe on their site, and then look at the sole there is a raised rubber section that runs along the length of the area where you would attach the cleat to the shoe (along the outer edge of the fore foot of the shoe). These are on either side of the cleat. These are the bars I am referring to. Road shoes are a simple flat sole.
I use a pair of really old Nike road shoes on the trainer with SPD cleats and pedals (1990s shoes). There’s no issue doing that as far as riding. Walking on them is worse than with a regular road cleat though.
I switched to SPD pedals on all my bikes in the early 2000s. I use Shimano pedals as well as generic Nashbar SPDs. The Shimanos are much better in mud, but the Nashbar pedals are fine, especially on the road. I put my shoes on in T1 and do a cross mount going out and a cross dismount coming back into T2. Saves some time.
If you want a road like SPD pedal, Shimano makes several. A good review on CyclingTips for one of them: https://cyclingtips.com/2018/07/shimano-a600-pedal-review/
just a note to keep things straight, SPD just stands for Shimano Pedaling Dynamics, so it really references both road and MTB.
just a note to keep things straight, SPD just stands for Shimano Pedaling Dynamics, so it really references both road and MTB.
I believe the road specific version, with the larger cleat, is SPD-SL.