I just bought a new set of race wheels, they are noticeably wider than my training wheel set. The bike is a Specialized Transition, the wheels are Hed Jets. I have opened up the bottom brake caliper as wide as it will go, turned the barrel adjuster and the brake pads still rub. I looked at Specialized website and found how to adjust the brake but it is just not enough. I have seen where others have filed or sanded down the brake pads to get wheels to fit. How do you that? I have a small vice so I can remove the pads. Do I get medium grit sand paper and just sand away? I have a few small files if that is better. Or is it best to buy thinner pads? The brake tracks on both training and race wheels are metal not carbon.
I used a metal file… you realize how solid a good set of pads are when you start at this. I actually used a box cutter/xacto knife to take the first mm or 2 off and finished with a file and sand paper.
I’d be searching round for some old part worn brake pads before sanding a new set especially if they are metal rimmed race wheels. I’d bet some of your riding buddy’s have some if you don’t, I’ve got maybe 5 sets of part worn ones at the last count.
I just bought a new set of race wheels, they are noticeably wider than my training wheel set. The bike is a Specialized Transition, the wheels are Hed Jets. I have opened up the bottom brake caliper as wide as it will go, turned the barrel adjuster and the brake pads still rub. I looked at Specialized website and found how to adjust the brake but it is just not enough. I have seen where others have filed or sanded down the brake pads to get wheels to fit. How do you that? I have a small vice so I can remove the pads. Do I get medium grit sand paper and just sand away? I have a few small files if that is better. Or is it best to buy thinner pads? The brake tracks on both training and race wheels are metal not carbon.
Thanks.
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By far and away the quickest way: a steady hand, a chopping board and a bread knife. Slice 2mm off at a time. Remember to cut new vertical grooves in them if you get past the manufactured ones.
I had the same issue with my P5 with the Swissstop Black Prince pads. Got a set of Reynolds blue pads, installed them and the wheels went on with no issues. Second season with the same set-up.
As you can see, there is a silver conical spacer/washer between the caliper arm and the brake pad. I think that it is there to adjust to angle of the pads to the rims such as toe in/out but perhaps not. I will remove them this evening when I get home and see what happens.
Either a file or a 3 axis mill. Also, look into the Swisstop Evo pads. They’re much thinner than stock pads and will save you the headache of trying to keep your pad level while sanding it down. They’re very good pads to boot.
I have a sanding bit on my Dremel tool. Works really well.
Same here. My Speed concept 9 needed the pads sanded to fit Zipp/HED wheels.
I put the pads one at a time in a vice to hold them, then a very steady had with a dremel and sanding bit. It works very quickly, so I just did a little at a time.
As for shortening the life of brake pads, its not like we burn through these things super quickly anyway! And not a big deal if you need to buy new pads once a year…
Remember to cut new vertical grooves in them if you get past the manufactured ones.Why?
Because if you need to brake and it clamps down on dirt/grime on top of the rim, you don’t want that being rubbed against the rim as it slides under the brake.
The groves allow the debris and stuff a place to go. It isn’t “much”, but you’re saving the extra 3-5cm of scraping that the dirt would otherwise do.
I would also say it has something to do with the bending of the rubber when you apply the brake. The slots allow the rubber to bend a bit before fully catching and applying all the stopping power. I don’t know how much, or if, that matters, but you could easily test it out and see. It would probably allow for more modulation if you toe-in your brakes.
If you have spacers behind the bolts, did you remove them as well? That’s all it took for me to get clearance.
Agreed, should be no need to sand brake pads. Just move the spacers.
Flo wheels on a 2012 Transition. All the spacers removed and the brake cable released and the pads rub the rear rim. I’m sure other wheel/frame/brake combinations suffer the same problems.
To the OP. The simplest thing to do is remove the pad and run it across some 320 grit emery cloth that is on a hard flat surface. Even light pressure and the pads will sand down very quickly. I use calibers to make sure they are the same thickness when I’m done.
As far as reducing the life of the brakes, I don’t remember ever replacing brakes for wear on a TT bike. Brakes only slow you down, so I don’t use them in a race.
