I am having some trouble getting the entire cassette off. I used the chain whip and lockring tool/wrench to get the lockring off, and I have taken off 2 cogs and a spacer, but the rest won’t come off. It’s probably real easy to do but I am having some trouble. Thanks guys.
The rest of the cassette should come off the same way as the pieces you already got off. Just pull, pry, shimmy it straight out. There are probably a few more separate pieces but the largest cogs are probably a single piece of about 4-5 cogs. Maybe they’re a little bit stuck, but once you have the lock ring off, nothing else specifically keeps the cassette in place.
ok cool thanks.
all the cogs should slide off easily. if not, don’t force it because there must be something jamming it in there. Is the wheel really filthy? if so maybe try and clean it up with some solvents and apply some lube.
use a hammer and a pryba and just sort of hit it off the casette body. shouldn’t cause any problems.
We assume you’ve removed the rear wheel from the bike, yes?
Sheldon Brown lives on:
Non-Shimano Hubs Generally speaking, off-brand “Shimano type” freehub bodies are not available, if they’re even removeable. Many of the off-brand hubs have the body rivetted onto the hub shell.
Some “premium” off-brand hubs use aluminum bodies to save weight. This is a Bad Idea because the standard Shimano spline pattern is not designed for this material. The steel sprockets are liable to cut notches into the edges of the splines, which can make it very difficult if not impossible to remove the cassette from the damaged body.
Shown here is an aluminum body that has suffered this sort of damage. Someone has filed down the burrs to make it re-usable after a fashion.
For the 2004 model year, Shimano started using aluminum bodies for the Dura-Ace 10-speed model. To avoid this problem, Shimano changed the spline pattern, making the aluminum spline ridges significantly taller for better support. The downside of this is that those hubs will accept only 10-speed cassettes.
i just gently tapped them out. they came out easily once the crud got loosened a little. they needed a good bath. thanks guys
A little tip for getting off the cassette that is really locked in is to remove at least one of the small cogs. You can then put the lockring back on, and leave the wrench on there. Then use the chain whip to turn the large cogset out of the groves it has embedded itself in. Basically you just use the two tools you just used to remove the lockring in the opposite direction. I use this technique if I am worried about prying or tapping on the back of the cassette, or if it is obvious that it is really dug in.
After you get it loose you have to then turn the tools around again and remove the lockring again. Slide the whole cassette toward the lockring so that you don’t just lock it back in it’s grooves.