Currently have a ‘21 tcr with the slr1 42mm Disc brake hookless rims. Call it a reluctance to change or sticking to what I know, not wanting to deal with sealant etc…… But I have run these with latex tubes and 26 mm pirelli p zero race tlr tires. The sidewall says, and call me dumb but I have only just noticed this, max pressure for hookless around 73 psi. For the past, like year, I have been running these at 100 psi. I figured having an inner tube changed things…. Am I lucky I’m Not dead with a tire blown off? Giant says this tire failed it’s testing protocols but the 28mm is fine. Only just read this info too 🥴
Iv just ordered some gp 5000 s tr……
so even with inner tubes, these need to be run at lower pressure still? Thanks and sorry For the stupid question, I hate hookless
I run Continental 5000S 25mm wide tires on a hookless Farsports 55mm rim with latex tubes at 90 PSI and have been for two years. No issues. The tires did fit very tight and were not much fun to put on, read biatch. I have worn out a few and it’s been always the same brand and model of tire. When I find a tire I like I buy a couple years worth at a time. I also have 2 back up chains to each bike depending upon 10, 11 or 12 speed. I’m a spares guy.
You can run tubeless tires with tubes on hookless rims without issue. Make sure you’re using tubeless tires, though. I think the pressure limit is talking about a tubeless setup, but I’d confirm with your dealer.
In a foolish attempt to try to convert you, I think you should at least try tubeless. Like you I resisted for years, but I’ve come around to believe that it’s literally better in every way (including setup) once you get used to it. Also, hookless rims do in fact have some notable advantages (which I won’t go into here).
There are several reasons why running tubes on a hookless rim isn’t ideal :
The tubeless tires you’ll need to use generally have thicker casings to keep them airtight, making them both harsher riding. There are exceptions, of course. This is a waste as you don’t need those thicker casings with tubes.
You’ll need to run much higher pressures to keep from pinch flatting. This is less comfortable, offers less grip and doesn’t lower rolling resistance (in fact, the opposite is likely true). In contrast, it’s very, very difficult to pinch flat a tubeless setup, allowing you to run lower pressures. This is the way. Believe me, riding in a fast group on tubeless 28s-30s at 60-65 psi is a revelation. You’ll never go back
Tubeless tires have very tight beads. Mounting them alone can be tough, trying to mount one while stuffing a tube in there can be even more challenging.
You’ll needlessly need to run tubeless tape and heavy tubeless tires. It’s a bit of a waste in terms of complexity and weight.
5.You can run sealant in the tubes, but it’s difficult. I know you are leery of sealant, but I guarantee you the first time you see your tires self-seal a flat in the middle of a ride you’ll be a convert. Most of the time, you won’t even notice that you actually just flatted.
So, that’s my futile attempt to spread the tubeless Good News. Whether you care about any of the above is up to you, of course. The wheels will work fine either way.
If I remember correctly, 74 psi is the industry standard max pressure for hookless tire/combos. Obviously you haven’t had problems when over-inflated, but one of the major publications ( I think it was Cycling Weekly) did manage to blow a tire off a hookless rim by over-inflating and I don’t think they went as high as 100 psi.
You might go check the Silca and AeroCoach inflation guides. You will be faster, safer and more comfortable at a much lower pressure. I don’t run more than 81 psi in any tire I ride and I still run 23s on some wheels.