UGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!
I hate horizontal dropouts. It took me freaking forever to do it, even with having my wife hold the bike for me.
Yes, I watched the stupid video on their site, but holy cow I think I almost broke my RD 87 times. Curses wanted to flow from my lips, but I just shouted letters instead. I probably sounded like the dude from Christmas story in the basement when their furnace broke.
So, is it possible to change the rear wheel by yourself?!
mother freaker!
I miss the vertical dropouts from my last bike. Please change cervelo!
Its a bit tuff the first few times, after that its as easy as the vertical ones. The biggest thing is to rest the saddle on your shoulder so you can use both hands. Right hand on the rear der with your thumb on the tab (near the pulleys) and the left on the wheel. Done.
UGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!
I hate horizontal dropouts. It took me freaking forever to do it, even with having my wife hold the bike for me.
Yes, I watched the stupid video on their site, but holy cow I think I almost broke my RD 87 times. Curses wanted to flow from my lips, but I just shouted letters instead. I probably sounded like the dude from Christmas story in the basement when their furnace broke.
So, is it possible to change the rear wheel by yourself?!
mother freaker!
I miss the vertical dropouts from my last bike. Please change cervelo!
If you remember to shift to the smallest cog on the rear, then it’s really not tough at all. That’s not always that easy if you flat out on the road and you’re all the way on the other side of the cassette. Still, it’s not a biggie. You’ll get the hang of it.
My technique is, make sure chain is on smallest chainring and smallest rear cog. Release and loosen the quick release. Firmly grasp the non drive side seat stay with the left hand. Pull the wheel straight back until it clears the dropouts. Pick the chain off the cog with your fingers and move it a little to the right so it will clear the cog and skewer as you pull the wheel the rest of the way out.
I’m with you. I can’t make much of any sense of the video on the Cervelo website.
when a wheel drops out vertically it falls ‘into the chain loop’ - away from the point where the chain pushes against the rear of your cassette. With horizontal dropouts you have to pull the wheel back into the chain then finagle it free. Follow the cervelo video and it really is very easy after a few tries.
I find it about a million times easier if I just remove the skewer completely. With that and shifting to the smallest cog, it’s just slightly more fiddly than vertical drop-outs.
Cause the drop outs (as all Horizontal are) are a shitty design. Never hear complaints about vertical, and you can save a TON of time over the most aero frame in any case of the rear flat.
Cause the drop outs (as all Horizontal are) are a shitty design. Never hear complaints about vertical, and you can save a TON of time over the most aero frame in any case of the rear flat.
With all respect…you’re full of it.
Like I said above…don’t make me produce another video like that crank swap one…
If you remember to shift to the smallest cog on the rear, then it’s really not tough at all. That’s not always that easy if you flat out on the road and you’re all the way on the other side of the cassette. Still, it’s not a biggie. You’ll get the hang of it.
My technique is, make sure chain is on smallest chainring and smallest rear cog. Release and loosen the quick release. Firmly grasp the non drive side seat stay with the left hand. Pull the wheel straight back until it clears the dropouts. Pick the chain off the cog with your fingers and move it a little to the right so it will clear the cog and skewer as you pull the wheel the rest of the way out.
I’m with you. I can’t make much of any sense of the video on the Cervelo website.
Bob, Bob, Bob…you’re needlessly getting your fingers greasy on the chain. As I described in that link above, grasp the derailleur with your right hand, forefinger on the body, thumb on the “tab” of the cage. Push the tab forward to give yourself extra chain slack and then pull the wheel back with your left hand until it comes out of the dropouts. Then, push the derailleur body to the left with your forefinger to create room for the nut of the quick release skewer to move down and forward past the derailleur. Viola! Wheel out. You hold the rear of the bike up with your right hand on the derailleur.
I bet if you spent the time you used posting this thread you could of been practicing and would have became “good” at it. I personally dont have a problem with it. Just out of curiosity are you dropping your RD into your small cog in the rear? Didn’t really want to state the obvious but just a thought. Like you stated in your post about losing all the time if you got a flat over the aero advantage, I would equate it to your T1/T2 times. If you want to get faster you gotta practice All the little things add up right?
Cause the drop outs (as all Horizontal are) are a shitty design. Never hear complaints about vertical, and you can save a TON of time over the most aero frame in any case of the rear flat.
Garmin mechanics can change rear wheels in TTs in 8 statoinary seconds on the DA. I can’t imagine vertical would be much faster, and if so, the time difference would be offset by the aero benefit.
Fork lawyer tabs are the scourge of fast wheel changes, not horizontal dropouts.
