I’ve suspected for years that anything of the same size and near enough the same grade will be pretty much the same as the others, performance wise, from any of the ‘proper bearing manufacturers’ (SKF, FAG, Timken, RHP, INA, NSK etc.).
Cheap shiiite Chinese and all bets are off.
And that the use of ceramic ball bearings in push bikes is all just 21st century Snake Oil.
I’ve not bothered watching Hamandeggbeano for a few years as his gobshiteiness got too grating. But to be fair, that one linked above explained stuff pretty well, in a rational manner.
(Don’t get worried about the cage material - again pros and cons with steel vs brass vs polymer, bit makes little difference on a push bike).
The biggest effect on performance will actually be
1 - is it installed properly, with the correct pre-load on the crank / bearings
2 - how not straight and parallel the bike is (not influenced by the actual bearings used)
3 - has water got into the bearing - as that fecks the performance or the grease, leads to messing up the lubrication, and with enough water (surprisingly little actually) causes corrosion thar leads to it.all going south
results.
For that reason, being in wet Britain, I try to buy hubs, headsets and BBs with stainless steel bearings.
(I used to work with bearings - or more regularly be investing why they’d failed in critical applications - though often with a half a million to a million Watts more being involved that the typical cyclist has !)