Help with bar end shifters

So I am very new to the triathlon scene and even more of a nube to bikes in general. I am riding a Fuji acr 2.0 right now and being a college student I am on a tight budget. I am just trying to get my bike to a point where it is maybe a bit more streamline and more functional than just using a road bike. I am trying to find a new aerobar/bull horn set up so I don’t have to come off my aerobars every time I shift, (it’s just inconvenient and uncomfortable to do). The problem I am having is knowing which shifters to buy. I have a 10 gear cassette and 2 chainrings. Should I buy a set of 10 speed sifters or am I just way off?
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Any help would be nice,

Christian

Yes, 10-speed shifters. I’m not up on what group the Fuji has on it, so just match Shimano with Shimano, and SRAM with SRAM.

All components are shimano 105s.

Any Shimano 10-speed bar end shifter will work fine. In fact, if you’re not married to the idea of indexed shifting, you can use a 9- or even an 8-speed bar end shifter in friction mode (I like Shimano shifters because they’ve retained the friction mode option).

I found some Microshift TT Bar end shifter BS-A10 3 x 10 speed. Could I use this even though its 3x10 and my bike is 2x10?

I’m not positive about the leverage ratio compatibility between microshift and shimano, but I’m pretty sure I’ve seen microshift and tiagra 10s or 9s mix on fujis before.

Generally speaking, derailleurs are dumb devices–the amount of cable pulled will dictate how far the derailleur moves. Where they’re not dumb is when you want indexed shifting. In order for indexed (i.e clicks on your shifter) shifting to work, the amount of cable pulled between each click has to move the derailleur the exact distance between each one of your cassette cogs. You can essentially match any bar-end shifter to your rear derailleur in friction mode (i.e continuously variable cable travel, as opposed to having indexed shift points that set the amount of cable pulled at any given time such that you’ll always end up “in gear.”

As for your front derailleur, same deal. There really isn’t a huge advantage to having “indexed” front shifting because you really just move between two endpoints with no stops in between. If you can confirm that the front shifter can be set to “friction” mode on the part you’re purchasing then you can just set the limit screws such that the derailleur can only take up 2 cogs worth of cable rather than 3 then the system will be “klugy” but it will work. SRAM’s low end left bar-end shifter basically works as a friction shifter.

If you have no idea how to do any of this stuff yourself and you’re gonna have to go to a shop and have them make it work for you then you may just want to shell out and get the right stuff to begin with. They’ll be much happier with you.

I found some Microshift TT Bar end shifter BS-A10 3 x 10 speed. Could I use this even though its 3x10 and my bike is 2x10?

Totally compatible. Shimano and MS front bar-end shifters are just friction shifters. You’ll have more lever throw available for the front than you’ll need. Set it up with the slack position on the shifter coinciding with the small chainring on the FD and you’ll be good.

I was at performance bike yesterday (my local bike shop) and I saw a fuji tri bike with shimano and microshift mix so hopefully thats a good sign.
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