Help Me Understand Carbon Wheels

I have been looking into carbon wheels and have a few questions:

  1. Do you ride with carbon wheels while training, or do you only use them while racing?
  2. Am I too big for them, Im 6’3 235 lbs (I fought for the last 3 years, between 205 and 245, so I know I need to lose around 30 lbs) But even at 200 lbs am I too heavy?

Thank you for the help! I dont want to spend that much money on something to have it break!

  1. Do you ride with carbon wheels while training, or do you only use them while racing?
    YES, training and racing.

  2. Am I too big for them, Im 6’3 235 lbs (I fought for the last 3 years, between 205 and 245, so I know I need to lose around 30 lbs) But even at 200 lbs am I too heavy?
    Not too heavy, I weigh more and ride 404FC and 808FC on some pretty bad roads now and then - never had a problem.

  1. depends

  2. depends

:wink:

Top end all-carbon tubulars are typically used only for racing. Yeah I know some guys train on them. I wouldn’t. There are plenty of less expensive carbon wheelsets that you could use for racing and training. Maybe clinchers with aluminum braking surface? Something built like a tank, able to take pothole hits, and with a higher max rider weight limit. Svelte all-carbon wheelset could have rider weight limits set as low as 180lbs. And then there’s 404 firecrest tubular with a 250lbs limit. And everything in between.

It really depends. It will also depend on how much money you sink into this, and what kind of crash repacement warranty is offered by the manufacturer. You don’t want to ruin the wheels in a lame training crash behind your house.

Crash replacement warranty? Ive never heard of this? Do manufacturers offer this for bikes as well?

Not sure. Some manufacturers do I think, but I never had to deal with it.

Zipp will not replace a ruined wheel outright. They will sell you a replacement at reduced cost. That’s a crash warranty. :wink:

What Dilbert said. Most companies will offer ‘crash replacement’ which means X% off the retail price

Usually they can rebuild your wheel for just the cost of a new rim (roughly), being the most common failure.

Crash replacement warranty? Ive never heard of this? Do manufacturers offer this for bikes as well?

Mavic has a crash Replacement program called MP3. Pay extra $$ up front and get replacement wheels if you trash yours.

Save your bank account because with Carbon Wheels come Carbon Brake pads and then Carbon Brakes and then …

Save your bank account because with Carbon Wheels come Carbon Brake pads and then Carbon Brakes and then …

^^^ There ya go. Don’t spend money on upgrades, spend time going up grades :wink: I started with just a set of carbon race wheels…3 bikes, an SRM, a computrainer and havin spent damn near the average American’s salary later…you get the point.

  1. On my tri bike, I ride my carbon wheels all the time (FYI, I weigh 162lbs). I sometimes switch out the front wheel, but typically, all carbon, all the time.
  2. Some wheels do have weight limits, but if you want carbon wheels for both racing and training, we recommend higher spoke count wheels. Granted, they aren’t as “sexy” as the lower spoke count wheels, but durability and reliability should be higher priorities if it will be a training wheel too. Fortunately, there are higher spoke count wheels that are still pretty light.

If you read the article recently posted on Slowtwitch about “Bearing Breakdown” (http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Bearing_Breakdown_2822.html), it also talks about racing products vs. longevity.

"Racing products are just that – meant for racing. When you look at auto racing, for example, it is understood that the equipment’s sole purpose is to forego longevity for short-term performance. Believe it or not, Ripley, but this applies to bicycles too. How to we make something faster? For one, you make it lighter. How do we make it light? Take away everything that is unnecessary for speed. In something like a hub, this means taking away extra seals, extra grease, and larger bearings with extra load capacity. "

In terms of crash replacement policies, Reynolds has a pretty solid program for $250, http://www.reynoldscycling.com/index.php?p_resource=support_assurance

Awesome! Thanks for the help guys. Another question, lets say I average 20 mph for 20 miles, some hills, light wind, how much gain would I get by investing in some good racing wheels. Are we talking averaging another .1 mph, 1mph, 2mph?? Sorry if these sound newbiesh, but I am a newb lol

0 mph
.

You must be one of those guys that are to cool to be helpful?

Keep reading this forum, he is very helpful.

I have seen a few of his posts and he does indeed seem very knowledgable, but it’s no reason to be a dick. When newer guys would come in an ask for tips on fightin/training etc, even though some of their questions would seem obvious or dumb I would still try my best to help them or at least point them in the right direction.

There’s too many variables. Almost all of this gear comes down to “are you willing to pay for it?” If you are it’s worth buying if you aren’t it isn’t. How much is a little bit of speed worth to you? You’d almost certainly do better at this point to save the money and get a few months of coaching or a used powermeter plus a book on how to use it.

Why would you point them in thr wrong direction? R10C is…kind of a dick. But he is our dick; I would recommend ignoring him for now.

Carbon wheels might gain you a little time over a ride like that, but it all depends on the wheel. If you pick up a pair of superlight carbon hoops, I doubt you’d ever see a difference. If you picked up set of $2500+ Bontragers or Zipps or HEDs or ENVEs, you might see some appreciable gains, but its all very much based on conjecture. With the same power output, same position on the same bike, same weather and road conditions, assuming no huge climbs and no massive winds, a ZIPP 808 is going to be faster than a box rim training wheel. How much faster depends on a lot.

Honestly, if you’re talking about 20 mile rides, you’re going to be much better served riding more than dropping all sorts of cash on wheels. Nobody wants to be that old duffer creaking along at 16mph on his $12000 bike. Fitness > technology. For most of us, the fastest setup is the one that gets ridden the most.

Haha sorry meant “right” direction, was in the trainer using my iPhone:) but thanks for the advice. That makes sense, if I didnt ask I would be one of those dumbasses blowing 2 grand on a set of wheels and wondering why I’m not picking up huge gains. As someone new to the sport it’s easy to get caught up in advertising and hype.

Honestly, being as I dont buy into the hype - I am often more impressed when I see a guy, covered in salt and sweat on a set of wheels that are allong the lines of a Dura Ace or Record hub, 32 spokes on a Open Pro or DT rim - that to me is the wheel a serious competitor is found training on. I can ride about any wheel I want, and I have them in my stock - when I am not on my Campagnolo Neucleons I am on 32 spoke Mavics with Record hubs - the wheel just makes more sense. As for aero wheels - I still have not found anything much faster (to the clock) than a Shamal HPW12 that oddly is not carbon.