404 is almost as fast as the hed3 with less surface area for cross winds. not to mention the 404 is spoked wheel and more comfortable.
the hed3 is just outdated at this point and i dont understand why people continue to use it.
Is this supposed to be in the pink font? People use it cause it is a badass reliable performer in all wind conditions. Over all yaw angles it averages lower drag than the Zipp404/Jet60 and performs with the 808/Jet90. Hell if you take HED’s drag chart at its word it basically waxes the entire zipp front wheel lineup.
Until recently, Hed inserted shims . Now, I believe glue is used. The rear wheel stays true to the frame, but there is a noticeable wobble in the cassette. Hed’s people say the cassette only wobbles when coasting, but the three rear H3s I have all display cassette movement when I’m pedaling. One varies enough for the chain to rub adjacent gears. Hopefully, there’s a fix.
Until recently, Hed inserted shims . Now, I believe glue is used. The rear wheel stays true to the frame, but there is a noticeable wobble in the cassette. Hed’s people say the cassette only wobbles when coasting, but the three rear H3s I have all display cassette movement when I’m pedaling. One varies enough for the chain to rub adjacent gears. Hopefully, there’s a fix.
Size warfare, really? You may have even sent me the tire pressure pdf. Shawty, wouldn’t anyone weighing over 140lbs with a bike + water weighing 20lbs, with 60% of the weight on the rear wheel, and tire pressure below 120psi max out a 20mm tire? Wouldn’t a C2 H3 rear wheel/23mm tire be suitable for 140lb plus riders in a non-disc event?
Get a disc for the rear (lighter and more aero than an H3).
More aero, yes, but lighter? A Jet Disc is over 200g heavier than an H3 rear.
I recently got an H3 front, and it’s lighter than the Mavic Ksyrium Equipe that originally came with my road bike, so I’m not sure why people complain so much about the weight of them. They don’t need rim tape, so you have to add on the weight of the rim tape to wheels that need it when comparing.
The H3 is still plenty viable, particularly on the used market. Only the most bleeding new edge wheels are faster in most conditions. In fact it is only this year that the H3 is finally disappearing from most pro cycling TTs.
The H3 has not diminished its capability and still compares as favorably with late model Zipp 808s and other wheels. Its tremendously durable…enough for daily riding.
There is plenty to continue to recommend the H3 to the rank and file AG triathlete.
wouldn’t anyone weighing over 140lbs with a bike + water weighing 20lbs, with 60% of the weight on the rear wheel, and tire pressure below 120psi max out a 20mm tire?
My “all-up” mass is 168 lbs and I run a 19 mm rear tire inflated to 110 psi.
Slowtwitch hipped me to this optimum tire pressure chart:
At 60% for the rear wheel, this suggests 168lbs on a 19mm tire should run closer to 130psi. Should a different equation be used?
Based on “discussions with tire manufacturers”, Berto ass u me s that a 15% drop is ideal.
Despite having the T-rex body build typical of cyclists, I don’t have 60% of my weight on the rear wheel even on my road bike, much less a TT bike ridden in a forward position.
I believe Tom A. when he says that too much pressure is worse than too little.
I’m not quite buying the chart. I weigh 157 lbs and run 110 PSI with my Bontrager Aero tt 19mm tires with Michelin latex tubes and never had an issue. I’m using an H3 up front and a Renn 575 on the back.
I just got a Specialized trispoke a while back. One side of the hub has a little plastic ring that covers a threaded portion of the outside of the hub. Is that for a freewheel? I guess you can run this thing as a front or rear?
Until recently, Hed inserted shims . Now, I believe glue is used. The rear wheel stays true to the frame, but there is a noticeable wobble in the cassette. Hed’s people say the cassette only wobbles when coasting, but the three rear H3s I have all display cassette movement when I’m pedaling. One varies enough for the chain to rub adjacent gears. Hopefully, there’s a fix.
Interesting to read… my older (2000-ish? Not exactly sure, got it used) Hed disc has a definite cassette wobble, but it’s only noticeable looking at it on the workstand; never had an issue while riding.
That chart looks fishy to me… 1) what’s up with the weight range? how many riders out there weigh less than 40kg, vs over 70kg (hand raised)? and 2) if you try to extend the lines out to 80+ kg, the resulting suggested pressure seems insanely high, unless perhaps you’re riding on a track or some sort of roller test. I’ve heard of Frank Berto, but what other info is there for him to back up those recommendations?