I’m looking for a gravel wheelset, but does weight matter much in gravel? I found a 2000g wheelset, but that seems awfully heavy. Going any lighter is going to cost me quite a bit more… is it worth saving 500g for a wheelset?
Fwiw, I climb a lot more than the average gravel-er.
I float between low and high 170’s. So, I place a premium on durability and am happier on an alloy wheel set. The HED Ardennes that I ride come in around 1,600g for the pair. I don’t think they are too spendy. Check out HED or My Bike Shop for frequent promotions.
If I was on less chunky gravel I would consider a deeper composite wheel set.
I got a set of Stan’s Grail CB7s last year that I like a lot. Very light (1275 grams with tape & valves) but durable. I notice about a 1mph improvement in my speed over my previous wheels that were Mavic Ksyriums.
If you’re doing a lot a climbing I wouldn’t want to drag an extra 500g up a hill on the regular. Hunt Wheels and Boyd Cycling have some decent wills just below 1600g that are reasonably priced. Of course, with the pandemic their inventory is low.
If you’re doing a lot a climbing I wouldn’t want to drag an extra 500g up a hill on the regular. Hunt Wheels and Boyd Cycling have some decent wills just below 1600g that are reasonably priced. Of course, with the pandemic their inventory is low.
Second vote on Hunt wheels. I replaces my stock Giant wheelset on my gravel bike with them and it made. An obvious difference. Light enough, sturdy, adaptable, and affordable.
I’m looking for a gravel wheelset, but does weight matter much in gravel?
Gravity and inertia do not cease to exist when the riding surface is unsealed.
is it worth saving 500g for a wheelset?
How badly do you care about paying in the ballpark of 10-30 seconds in an hour-long climb?
I’m looking for a gravel wheelset, but does weight matter much in gravel?
Gravity and inertia do not cease to exist when the riding surface is unsealed.
gravity and inertia matter more the rougher the surface - every little rock is a hill to climb, even when going downhill!
how much is debatable, let alone in balance with other factors…
I’m rolling He’d Ardennes GP+. I like them. Aluminum rims. I went for what was a balance of weight, price, and durability.
Not sure your plans, but my goal with a gravel build was a bike for all conditions and purpose. For that reason, I didn’t think carbon lightweights made sense.
Weight always matters when you do a lot of climbing–just not very much. Generally speaking, 1 pound equates to about 1 watt climbing up a steady grade, so that 500 grams you might save on a wheelset is not going to make a noticeable difference. That is why I always look for the better ways to go faster, i.e. starting with tires.
Wheels are the least exciting part of the bike to me which is why I just build up my gravel wheels as cheaply as possible. Put your money in tires though; that is where it really matters. A slow tire (anything from Maxxis, any Schwalbe tire with Addix, frankly, most gravel tires just are not very fast) will cost you 10-15 watts compared to a fast one (Conti Terra Speed, Challenge Strada Bianca Pro, Gravel King Slick) and that IS significant. If you are just out having fun then buy a long lasting, grippy tire.
If you care about going faster, start with the bicyclerollingresistance site and do some research. Since the Conti RaceKing Protection is faster than all but the Challenge SBP, provides more grip and only gives up about a watt, it remains the best “gravel” tire out there.
Unless you can get away with using a 32mm Conti GP5000TL for your gravel in which case, you will be much faster than anything else.
If my gravel was really mild I might do a 5000 on the rear with something bigger up front with some cornering traction. If not, I’m going straight to the RaceKing, Speedking or Raceking Protection. The Speedking may be.a 2.2 inch tire but I bought one recently and it is fast. It has even been holding air without sealant, which is great (not that I am against sealant).