I’m new to Triathalons. I’ve been riding for over a year now, and have just recently started training for some tri events for the upcoming year. I ride a Giant Ocr3. I have started to notice that my preferred position on the bike is to sit forward on my seat. This brings my riding geometry closer to 90 degrees. However, I can not move my seat forward any further. I have also noticed that when sitting forward in the saddle and also using my areo bars, my bike tends to be less stable. I am looking for suggestions on how to resolve these issues, without buying a new bike. I am considering a new seatpost to move my seat forward, and a new fork with some forward rake to change the caster angles on the front wheel. I have already changed to a shorter handlebar stem to try and make up some distance between the seat and bars. Any advice will be appreciated.
You’ve done an admirable job of making the bike work, and discovered the very reason tri-specific bikes exsist.
Keep your eyes open for a used frame, investing in your current bike will not result in satisfactory “forward position” performance. Certainly the Giant is a viable option for “KOPS” or Slam positions for tri, but the reversed post, saddle shoved forward, short stem fit makes that bike as stable as a unicycle.
Many triathletes have made OCR/TCR’s work, but not at 80 degree positions. The loss of stability you’ve discovered won’t be resolved with 3-5mm of additional fork rake.
What size is your Giant? I’d guess you can unload the frame and frame size specific items for about $300 and score a tri frame for less than $500 used. I know, the hassle of buy and sell logistics can leave you without a bike for several weeks. Ultimately you’ll have a bike that you are looking for instead of one you’ve invested $100s in components on and are still without preformance.
Good Luck
-SD
The OCR3 will work fine as an entry level tri bike. My wife used one for her first two years in sprint tris and had numerous AG wins and placings.
Read Slowman’s articles about bike design on the Slowtwitch site and Tom Demerly’s articles on his Bikesport site. These will explain the difference in road/tri geometries and the avantages/disadvantages of each.
The way to go on an OCR/TCR is to set yourself up in a “multi-sport” position at about 75/76 degrees. Get yourself a neutral set back seat post and push the seat forward on it’s railings. This will give you the desired 75/76 which is a good compromise. If you go more forward than this on any road bike you are too much weight on the front wheel and the handling characteristics deteriate. So don’t get a forward seat post for this reason. I wouldn’t mess with the fork rake. For aero bars I’d recommend Syntace C2’s in one size SMALLER than you would normally use, eg. if you’re on a medium frame then get the small size bars, etc. This way you’re not overly stretched on the bars. Read the suggested articles and you’ll understand the reasons for this.
Also don’t just rush out and get a tri bike for awhile. They have a lot of disadvantages such as their poor handling characteristics, etc. Too many newbie trathletes are doing this without first developing basic cycling/handling skills, so learn how to ride a road bike first. Trigeeks are not renowned as skilled bike handlers and many don’t even realize it. My suggestion is to join a roadie group. Once you’ve had a couple of seasons under your belt and have learned from the roadies then buy a tri bike, but always also have a road bike.
That’s my $.02
Thank you for the advice. I will definately change my seatpost. I have been considering changing to a carbon fork. Now I know not to change the rake. Do you think the cost of the carbon equals the benifit of the comfort and weight? Also, are carbon seatposts worth buying? Thanks.
I don’t think a carbon seat post makes that much difference comfort wise but if you go to one of the Giant/Burrows aero posts be sure to get the right size. Sizing is on the Giant web site. John Cobb is now telling us these do work. Get the carbon Giant/Burrows fork that is standard on the OCR1/TCR. You can find both these items cheap on ebay. They come in three shaft lengths as to match which size frame you have. The fork was tested as very aero and is much lighter than what you have on the OCR3.
For cheap aero wheels get CH Aero disc covers for $59.95. They work just as good as any $$$ disc. For the front you should be able to find a Hed Jet 60 or CX or a Campy Shamal for around $100. on ebay. These wheels are as good aero as almost anything short of a tri spoke.
Make these few mods and you’ve got yourself a really decent competitive bike without spending a fortune.