Has anyone switched from their Cannondale Slice (2016 version) to something more ‘aero’? What are you thoughts? Are their real world gains to be had by going P2/3, Speed Concept etc? Budget is a factor so I would be looking at second hand. I have just had a bike fit by Dean at Fitwerx and the bike is set up as per his recommendations. I like the fit. I had a 2:32 bike split at Maine 70.3 (pre-fit) and I am looking at Ironman Lake Placid next year. I have Di2, wheels etc to switch across to something new but I am just not sure if it is worth it! Thanks
That’s a lot of seatpost!
That’s a lot of seatpost!
Looks like the frame is at least a size too small
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Always hard to give a suggestion when the rider is not on the bike. Does it look like a size too small, YES. Does that mean anything without seeing you on the bike, NO.
The bike might be great with an optimized fit. Will a new frame get you more aero and faster?
One thing for sure is you must be a tall guy and I am sure finding a frame that fits is not easy. I bet you could make this faster.
Looks like the frame is at least a size too small
So what if it’s big or small? He’s comfy. Most importantly he got a fit done & has his fit coordinates. That’s super easy to match up to upgrades that would be the proper size.
To the OP: The bike is ~15% of your total drag. There are savings to be had there
Looks like the frame is at least a size too small
So what if it’s big or small?
The arm pads are pretty much directly over the front axle, so I would guess the front/rear weight distribution could be out of whack (65/35). Whether this leads to handling issues or potential high-speed wobbles is an unknown. I would ask whether the OP notices that a regular road bike feels more stable or much more responsive. If the answer is yes, than there could be advantages other than just an aero savings.
The good thing is that the slow season for bike sales is coming up and rim brake frames are quickly losing value. The OP could use the existing fit coordinates to pick possible frames and shop patiently on EBay. I sold my old nosecone Shiv last year and only got $650. I would think a P2 or P3 could be found for peanuts.
FWIW I have a 83cm seat height, rode a IA and Shiv before Speed Concept and a dig the SC the most. If that is a 60cm Slice, you would want to see you fit on an XL SC first. Your fitter should have software to be able to do that for you. Aero trumps weight BUT, that is a light bike and LP is hilly. The difference in speed will be some, but not huge.
There always seems to be a lot of focus on how aero is the bike, but the more important thing is how aero are you on the bike. If you have been fit properly…and like the fit… then why change if everything is working well.
In the past I have changed bikes to get what I thought was going to be better, faster etc. and that wasn’t always the case.
Having said that there will be aero gains in upgrading… but that will all depend on the “engine”
What PD bento box is that and how do you have it secured? Currently running one on my Slice that velcros around the top tube and have never loved it
Thanks for all the input! It was the largest frame that they offered (60) but at 6’5 with long arms and legs perhaps it wasn’t the best choice but it has served me well. I have no handling issues (that I know of) but the weight distribution/ handling is an interesting point. Perhaps I would notice the difference on something longer.
Thanks for your answer. I perhaps didn’t word my question very well but this is less about fit and more about getting a new bike and realising there was nothing wrong with the old one haha. It sounds like you enjoy riding the SC more than your previous bikes. That is what I am after!
I have checked the chart for the XL SC and I can make it work but with the pads at ‘full range’. I am not sure if this matters or not. I am around 87cm on the seatpost. I would get more reach on the SC and the P series but the P series has a longer effective top tube so if I understand correctly that would put my seat in a better position. It also has more stack.
It makes flying mounts fun! Good job that I have legs to match!!
I agree - the velcro straps do not look right! I installed some top tube bosses. Everything you need to know is here https://www.tririg.com/articles.php?id=2015_02_Top_Tube_Storage_Bosses_Tutorial. It has worked really well and FWIW I have checked the inside of the frame with an inspection camera and it all looks sound around the inserts. It voids the warranty of course.
I agree with both points. I guess I am more interested at the moment in finding out about the benefits, or lack of benefits, of a different bike. As you say the bike looks too small so perhaps the biggest benefit I would feel is having a frame the right size (or closer to it) that will help with factors that I haven’t taken into account (stability, handling).
Your question is hard to answer, I have had the canyon speedmax, trek speedconcept, cannondale slice black inc. (same model as yours) and orbea ordu.
All those bikes are wonderfull but differents, the most important thing is fitting, don’t think about aero data’s, they are pretty theoretical if you are well fitted 90% of the drag is there.
The good thing of the slice is that maintenance is easy, travel is easy, it is easy to fitt, it’s fast and very very confortable which is the most important thing (with fitting) for Ironman distance (not so much for Half Ironman). Confortable means more time on aero position and better run.
Look at people like Dreitz, Vesterby and H Jackson, their best splits (maybe not Dreitz) on bike + run are on the slice.
Your slice is very well preapared with tririg brakes and so on, but it’s true that it looks small, look is not an issue but a bigger size would probably have better handling.
People with a cyclist background is more used to this kind of position with small frames.
87, wow. I am pretty sure the old shiv is bigger than the slice or speed concept and it’s a pretty inexpensive bike now.
All those bikes are wonderfull but differents, the most important thing is fitting, don’t think about aero data’s, they are pretty theoretical if you are well fitted 90% of the drag is there.
The other 2 things I’d add aer:
- a fast fit on one bike if ported over is typically a fast fit on another bike
- the faster you ride the more stack/spacing you want between the basebar & elbow cups. The slower you are the larger of an aerodynamic head tube you want
- the faster you ride the more stack/spacing you want between the basebar & elbow cups. The slower you are the larger of an aerodynamic head tube you want
Interesting. Would you care to elaborate on the logic of this? I am interested because I built an 80mm riser for my Speed Concept to keep the bars low relative to the elbow pads. I can’t explain my logic, but it seemed like the right thing to do. Your general rule sounds like it wasn’t a bad idea.
- the faster you ride the more stack/spacing you want between the basebar & elbow cups. The slower you are the larger of an aerodynamic head tube you want
That’s the first I’ve heard this. I’m intrigued. Do you have data/testing that shows this?
- the faster you ride the more stack/spacing you want between the basebar & elbow cups. The slower you are the larger of an aerodynamic head tube you want
That’s the first I’ve heard this. I’m intrigued. Do you have data/testing that shows this?
Well, it’s not very well known, but Desert Dude is a real life, gets-paid-for-it aero tester…