Generally, how willing are bike shops to negotiate on bike prices?

Looking at a 2011 bike that they have a couple of in on clearance. However, the clearance price is only a few hundred dollars less than the same 2012 model bike and there are other shops (2-3 hours drive away) that have the same bike (same model year, size, color) on clearance for $200-300 less than the reduced price of the original shop.

Given these circumstances, that the bike seems to be priced higher than the market rate and that it is a 2011 model still sitting around, how willing are shops to negotiate? I don’t want to insult the shop by saying I would buy at a lower price, but at the same time I’m not lowballing them or trying to get a discount on the most recent year of bike that is actually selling quickly.

What do you all think? And how would I approach asking for a price reduction?

All they can say is no. If the are pissed at you for looking for a price amtch find another shop.

You earned your money why should you not try and keep it.

State the facts and ask if they can match the price, I used to work in a shop and more often than not people always tried to negotiate the price down. If you were talking about a 2012 bike at this time of year you’re not going to have much luck but since you’re looking at a 2011 then they’ll be more likely to negotiate. What is the original list price vs. the now sale price?

If it is on the shop floor and it is a year old, I think they would be very willing to negotiate.

I bought a 2012 Trek Speed Concept 7.5. I think the MSRP was $3,800. The shop doesn’t usually carry that bike. The sold it to me for $3,000. (Their rationale was that they didn’t have to pay to stock it at all. All they had to do was build it up once it arrived from the warehouse).

If you want to try to negotiate, it may be a good idea to do it at a time when other customers are not around.

My experience with a couple LBS is that they are willing to negotiate on older modeled and especially trade-in/ex-demo bikes which includes the bike you are talking about. I just bought a bike and in the process spent a fair amount of time negotiating with shops without any problems. New models are a lot tougher to negotiate and if the store is more of a chain than and LBS forget about it. I was going to buy a boardman (I live in the UK) but ended up with a used Scott because Halfords, who seems to have exclusive rights to sell Boardmans and is a big chain, was a complete nightmare to deal with. After being told bluntly by a Halfords employee that frames are only sized in inches not cm and Tiagra is better than 105 I have made the promise to only deal with LBS from now on. I think Chris Boardman posted on this forum a few years back and while I know nothing about business he needs to get his bikes out of the hands of used car salesman and into shops where people know something about bikes. Rant over.

I’ve bought 3 bikes in the recent past, and all 3 were previous year Specialized bikes, and they were between 25-50% off. Recently I got an S-works Roubaix with DuraAce for much less than half price, because I let the shop keep the wheels/tires/cassette (I already have my own nice wheels+DA cassette). They were very willing to work with me, and they seemed to be happy to have the bike gone.

I negotiated on all 3 bikes, and when timed correctly with a floor full of new model year bikes I think good deals can be had.

As a follow on to my post about my 2012 SC.

I didn’t really try to negotiate. It just worked out that way.
I walked in one day and was pretty sure I knew what I wanted. I asked if they could order one for me.
Shop: Sure, no problem.
Me: I am interested in the SC 7.5/7.8 or maybe even a 9.x if the price is right.
Shop: I think I can get you the 7.5 for a little over $3,000 and the 7.8 for $3,xxx (i don’t really remember, since I bought the 7.5).
Me: Cool, I am getting fitted next week and I should know what size I will need.
Shop: If you are serious about buying the bike soon, I can check with my owner/manager to get you the final price.
Me: Great. Here is my number.

Shop called me 3 days later and gave me their bottom line price.

The best deals I’ve gotten on current model year bikes are for odd sizes in stock. Got my wife’s MTB on a good deal (similar to year end closeout) sales because they had her size in stock (she’s <5 feet) and already had a full showroom with more bikes on the way. I never expect a huge discount unless they really have old stock or need make room for new bikes.

They are quite willing for previous year models or models that have been sitting on the floor for awhile (check for dust!) especially the shops with lots of inventory. I always throw out an OTD price, nothing ridiculous but fair in my mind based on what other LBS and online prices are available. Usually they come back with another OTD number slightly higher than my offer but always lower than their original or sale price. I always negotiate quietly or when other customers are not around. I’ve also been declined by some shops and I just say thanks and walk out the door. If you don’t ask…

What do you all think? And how would I approach asking for a price reduction?

In terms of wanting a discount, this sounds about as fair and honest a reason as they will hear, just be polite and on the level about it - “Shop X is doing it for Y dollars, can you drop your price to compete?” However, bear in mind that it is beneficial to you to be able to buy from this shop rather than Shop X in both time and gas money, so IMO it would be unreasonable to try and force them to price match to the cent. It’s like people getting brick and mortar shops to price match the internet and still wanting to get shop staff advice on every component and have everything fitted and set up for free in the workshop.

As an aside, you would not believe what customers try and get away with in bike shops. Probably half the guys who end up with three or more items (and I’m talking shoes/clothes/helmets etc - not even bikes) will ask for some kind of discount ‘because I’m spending a lot of money.’ Well hey dude, that’s because you’re buying expensive stuff. We don’t put price tags on it for shits and giggles, that’s how much it fucking costs. I had a guy ask me for a discount on a pack of 6 self-seal patches, which was all he was buying, because he’d driven across town to get them. ‘You must really want them then, price is on the ticket.’ I saw a guy haggle at the counter for 5 minutes, with other customers queuing, on a ~£150 purchase of current season items that he had already negotiated a 20% reduction on. Guess how much help he’ll get next time he’s in, somewhere between none and a punch in the face. Maybe it’s because bike shops are almost always still independents in a world of chain stores and corporate policies but I can’t think of any other establishment people walk into with the same sense of entitlement they do with bike shops.

If I’m right I think the markup on a full bike is 30% and less for a frameset.

I was going to buy a boardman (I live in the UK) but ended up with a used Scott because Halfords, who seems to have exclusive rights to sell Boardmans and is a big chain, was a complete nightmare to deal with. After being told bluntly by a Halfords employee that frames are only sized in inches not cm and Tiagra is better than 105 I have made the promise to only deal with LBS from now on. I think Chris Boardman posted on this forum a few years back and while I know nothing about business he needs to get his bikes out of the hands of used car salesman and into shops where people know something about bikes. Rant over.

The Boardman bikes are utterly brilliant. If I recall correctly, it’s only the “performance” series that Halfords has exclusive rights to. Even then, I think you could scope them at Halfords and order them online from Wiggle (I know they sell international (I’m an ex-pat), but I think they do domestic too). The Elite series are available through real bike shops… they’re well worth the extra cash. (I ride the SLR 9.2)

What I don’t like about their sales arrangement might just be a problem with Wiggle, but I want to be able to customize my bike slightly, like I would with my LBS. Different wheels? Stem? Swap them out before shipping - but no, I can’t get them to do that. Boardman bikes are brilliant, but the distribution isn’t what it could be.

Anyway, to the OP’s question: in my experience the LBS will be open to some negotiation, but more so on older stock. Even then, you may not see much discount. You’re more likely to be able to get extra stuff thrown in for a discounted price.

What do you all think? And how would I approach asking for a price reduction?

As an aside, you would not believe what customers try and get away with in bike shops. Probably half the guys who end up with three or more items (and I’m talking shoes/clothes/helmets etc - not even bikes) will ask for some kind of discount ‘because I’m spending a lot of money.’ Well hey dude, that’s because you’re buying expensive stuff. We don’t put price tags on it for shits and giggles, that’s how much it fucking costs. I had a guy ask me for a discount on a pack of 6 self-seal patches, which was all he was buying, because he’d driven across town to get them. ‘You must really want them then, price is on the ticket.’ I saw a guy haggle at the counter for 5 minutes, with other customers queuing, on a ~£150 purchase of current season items that he had already negotiated a 20% reduction on. Guess how much help he’ll get next time he’s in, somewhere between none and a punch in the face. Maybe it’s because bike shops are almost always still independents in a world of chain stores and corporate policies but I can’t think of any other establishment people walk into with the same sense of entitlement they do with bike shops.

+1. I’ll agree with this. used to work in a bike store- a major chain, sort of like halfords, and I know several LBS owners intimately.

in the first place, the margin on bikes is very rarely very extensive. of course, this may vary from shop to shop and the qty ordered, but the cost price that bike shops buy their bikes at is abt 50-60% of what they retail for. add in warehousing space, assembly costs, staff costs to sell the bike, warranty returns, demo bikes, etc etc, and who ain’t got a whole lot of margin left. I’d say probably 20-30%. the common man in the shop needs to understand something about ordering a year run’s of bikes- it’s a risky business. you’ve got to predict your demand way in advance adn order accordingly- order too many and you’re sunk, order too few and you’ve lost a major profit. very rarely will you be able to get in extra orders once they’re sold out, unless your brand is a rebadged OEM- they run 365 days a year. haggling on bike prices is something many bike shop owners dislike. give them some respect, for crying out loud. they have a business to run. it’s a difficult enough business as it is already.

accessories and service is where bikeshops make most of their cash. the margin on acessories can be as big as 70% (depending on what.) selling the bike is a way of getting the customer back in the door to buy acessories many, many many, times. this is also why you’ll see bike shops more willing to throw in freebies with bikes ( cheap shoes, jerseys, bells, bottles, cages, lights, etc.) rather than drop a bike’s price.

if you’re negotiating on an older model on the shop floor, I’d say this is fair. they probably want to get rid of it anyway, so give it a shot. do it quietly, on a slow sales day ( tuesdays and wednesdays are always good) where you can talk to the owner or someone big ( don’t try negotiating with the young sales staff. they very rarely have the power or the right to do price cuts.) . Be reasonable and don’t offer a ridiculous price. it would help if you’ve been to said LBS several times and you’ve bought stuff from them before, or they know you ( or at least know your face). LBS are much more willing to negotiate with loyal customers who are reasonable with them, rather than a new customer just looking for the best deal. (of course a relationship can be started by them offering you a said deal.) Discretion is also key. don’t advertise the price you got it for if they give you a good deal- thsi just hurts their business if they keep having to match it.

making relationships with LBS always helps. I know who can help me out in a jam ( stuff spoils or breaks down in race week), if I need to get hard-to-find parts, if I’m dealing with stuff that’s hard to wrench. the few hundred you give to them here and there can pay big dividends in the long run, or when you’re looking for your next bike. I built up my current ride at a steep discount ( new frame + 2nd hand components and parts for about half the price brand new stock bike would have cost). a friend is building an '08 scott addict with new ultegra , khamsin wheels, for about 1.2k USD because of strong LBS relationships.

If I’m right I think the markup on a full bike is 30% and less for a frameset.

Hah! What bike? What frameset?

Care to speculate on the markup that a clothestore puts on a suit vs a shirt?

see, i feel sort of ambivalent about this. on the one hand, i agree with the posters who’ve stressed the importance of currying a good relationship with the LBS - they’ll be more inclined to help you out, and everyone wins when you’ve got a good shop nearby. i’ve got a local shop who are actually not fantastic but a friendly guys and OK wrenches - it’s convenient to go there and i’m happy to see them stay in business.

on the other hand, i sometimes feel like bike shops want to exist in a bizarro parallel retail universe where a lot of rules don’t apply to them. i’m regularly treated worse in bike shops than most other shops, because the snob behind the counter’s too busy talking about last week’s awesome crit with his buddy to sell me an inner tube or something. i ride, tour, race and wrench a lot - i’m a good customer! a lot of bike shops also seem to want to cry foul about how their margins are so tiny and so on - well, tough, i guess. this is business. and what the hell is it about bike shops that we regularly need to go in and drop a few hundred bucks in order to ensure that they’ll treat us fairly and offer us good business?

to the OP: sure, i think these days nearly every independent shop is willing to negotiate, particularly on a 4-figure purchase. heck, people negotiate at futureshop or the brick. i think as long as you’re respectful about it, the worst thing they can say is, “sorry, that’s as low as we can go.” you’ll never know if you don’t ask! lastly, and a few of the others have hinted at it - you’re more likely to be successful in negotiating if you’re sweetening the pot for them a little. could you lump in a few items into a big spend? even just some tools, socks, spares, etc? if you’re willing to pay full margin on the bike, you might get outright freebies elsewhere that balance out the difference. when i bought my last tri bike, i think i also got new shoes, helmet and wetsuit at the same time. real discount!

good luck,
-mike

the better your relationship with the shop, combined with the more the shop wants or needs to move a unit, the more likely you are to get better pricing than what is on the sticker. the variables behind all that are more than you probably want to know unless you want to start up your own storefront. and are you sure what someone else is offering cheaper comps out exactly the same? i’d simply offer that if you spread that couple hundred bucks out over 5-7 year life expectancy of the bike and local service, you may not have such a great deal driving hours away to get one.

so let’s say you really are able to save a $200 - 300 driving 3 hours to get that deal. right there you’ve lost a third of that or more in time and fuel. then what will you do when -not if- you need that bike serviced? show up with it at the shop you thumbed your nose at and expect them to handle the other shop’s “deal”? that would be classy.

cheapest isn’t always the best long term solution for something you really are investing in. if you really feel the need to try to work the sticker price down - simply ask what it would take to get a lower price. then accept the answer.

I got a 2% discount for paying in cash. It doesn’t sound like much but when your paying a few grand for a bike it basically makes your pedals free.

so let’s say you really are able to save a $200 - 300 driving 3 hours to get that deal. right there you’ve lost a third of that or more in time and fuel. then what will you do when -not if- you need that bike serviced? show up with it at the shop you thumbed your nose at and expect them to handle the other shop’s “deal”? that would be classy.

cheapest isn’t always the best long term solution for something you really are investing in. if you really feel the need to try to work the sticker price down - simply ask what it would take to get a lower price. then accept the answer.

What Jim just said…sure, another shop has it a couple hundred less, but it is a 4-6 hour round trip!! How much is your time worth?

And while any shop will service (almost) any bike, don’t expect to get any preferential treatment for a last second tune-up or adjustment, etc.

Jim’s last sentence is the correct answer.

Thanks for all the advice!

Much appreciated. I’m going to make sure the bike is the one I need and then talk to them about the price. I also need a cadence/speed sensor as I don’t want to keep switching it over and another bottle/bottle cage and something to store my flat kit in. I’m estimating an extra couple hundred in extras with these accessories so hopefully this sweetens the pot a little for any negotiating. I’ll mention that I also need to pick up that stuff before asking about price-matching.