I have had the TriRig Scoops on my SC for about 2 years now and have had issues with how they’re mounted to the bike… their mounting hardware at the time apparently fit about everything BUT the SC.
I see they/TriRig now have a kit of four M4 screws and tapered washers specifically for the SC but they’re $50. Feel like that is way overpriced.
I have some ideas that I might be trying out after yet again another Scoop issue… flew off midway on a ride the other night.
So anyone have theirs mounted successfully and securely… or pay the $50?
Here’s the solution that I went with, though I also added some wedges for more tilt and lengthened the grips. Though I spend quite a bit more than the $50…
Thanks for that… can you take a pic of what you’re using or describe how you’re connecting the cups to the bar through the angled pieces?
I’m connecting directly to my mine (not through an angle piece) and have it max tilted to the 15 degrees or so it will go to… as a current fix I found some tapered rubber washers used for faucets and using a m4 bolt with a washer on top of it… could be a permanent solution honestly. Riding this Saturday… TBD.
So far I’ve not had luck with m4 bolts and washers due to the tapered shaped of the mounting holes… you really do need some sort of tapered washer of sorts IME.
My favorite solution for scoops on a speed concept is simply tapping the holes out to m5 or m6. Doable with a $15 set of taps by anyone with a drill. Doesn’t necessarily solve the narrow mounting platform but does allow us to use a real bolt size at least.
Get some small M4 stainless washers, torque down till they seat nicely in the cups, and be done with it.
If you put a dab of carbon paste between the cups and the bridge, they won’t budge, when torqued down.
If you need a wedge to raise the front of the cups, get some carbon sheet material, and build a pair! Some cutting, drilling, and filing, a nice afternoon DIY project.
I went through the same issue. I ordered a pair of the scoops and didn’t realize that I needed to special order the bolts. I had to reorder them and then put them on. I think I paid $35 back then.
I’d be tempted to try the taping out to a larger M5 or so like the other poster shared. But, a little risky. I’d say just spend the money and get them. Kinda sucks.
Maybe ask if they can up to rush shipping for you. Might help…
I’m just using these, and the screws that came with them, then screwed down with the screws that came with the scoops.
Though note that at least with my setup (furthest forward configuration on the bar), I had to extend the bars so that I could have something to grip. You may be different if your horizontal bar isn’t furthest forward, but I’d you angle the scoops, you may end up with your aem
Any suggestions for mounting scoops ultimate on the Gen 2 SC? I’m thinking the aero coach ascalon adapter should work but it might require nuts because the holes in the adapter are not threaded
My go to is always going to be the corresponding FastTT adapter plate. Might need to add some extra holes to match up with spacing depending on your position but it’s simpler and has the benefit of the BTA mounting holes.
The Aerocoach adapter will work with nuts like you describe though.
Here’s what I landed on after languishing on the same issues you are. Posting because I wish someone had shown me a real-life example before I pulled the trigger. With Ben’s suggestions on prior posts, here is what I came up with (top down).
I actually have that bracket and hardware if you are interested in it. I haven’t raced since last year and was going to update my cockpit in the offseason. Instead, I got lazy and bought larger pant sizes!
I was using similar to what you’re using hardware wise… my holes look a little different? Steeper taper, not much lip around the bottom… maybe a tad larger… I digress my left one popped off mid ride the other day mounted like yours pictured.
Here’s my current solution but not titanium/permanent… I am a heavy sweater so my cockpit needs to be corrasion resistant in addition to not falling apart.
@xeon
Just use slightly smaller, and thinner stainless washers! Stainless is a fairly soft material, that’s why I always opt for titanium hardware when strength is critical, and it still needs to be corrosion resistant.
In that case however, the softness of the material is used to your advantage - combined with the countersunk bolts, the washers will deform/seat into the TriRig cup bolt holes once torqued down and create the perfect solution for using bolts with a smaller head like the ones on the Speed Concept.
I recommend using torx head bolts as the tool-bolt interface is superior to hex head bolts, where stripping the bolt is a common issue.
