I have had a powertap for a while and then also got a set of Vectors (and a Wahoo Kickr…). However, I felt power numbers were off on the vectors so this am i did a comparison riding with the powertap and the vectors. Average power for a couple of minutes: vector 120 watts, pt 150 watts…
Started working on the vectors:
– rechecked the torque so it is at 35 newton meters
– did a static calibration
– took out the batteries
All that seemed to help and the 2 powermeters were at 152 and 151 watts for the next short test. Now, I do not know if the powertap is measuring correctly but at least the difference was almost eliminated. I will try w the vectors on the kickr tonight and see if there is any difference.
Anything else I have missed in terms of calibrating the vectors?
Think crank length is set correctly but might need to reset angles? Also, I cannot figure out how to do the dynamic calibration where I am spposed to pedal backwards for some time. I do it but nothing seems to happen.
I have had a powertap for a while and then also got a set of Vectors (and a Wahoo Kickr…). However, I felt power numbers were off on the vectors so this am i did a comparison riding with the powertap and the vectors. Average power for a couple of minutes: vector 120 watts, pt 150 watts…
Started working on the vectors:
– rechecked the torque so it is at 35 newton meters
– did a static calibration
– took out the batteries
All that seemed to help and the 2 powermeters were at 152 and 151 watts for the next short test. Now, I do not know if the powertap is measuring correctly but at least the difference was almost eliminated. I will try w the vectors on the kickr tonight and see if there is any difference.
Anything else I have missed in terms of calibrating the vectors?
Think crank length is set correctly but might need to reset angles? Also, I cannot figure out how to do the dynamic calibration where I am spposed to pedal backwards for some time. I do it but nothing seems to happen.
Thanks.
A
The dynamic calibration is simply pedaling backwards when up to speed, after about 5 rotations, the head unit will say power calibration successful. That’s it, you can do it any time during the ride as well, but suggested as soon as you get enough speed to not fall over.
I just went through all this mess with my vectors. I couldn’t get them to work until I realized a tiny piece of plastic residue from the stickers was stopping everything from working. Whenever you take out the batteries, you have to reset the angles (aka pedal up to 80rpms or whatever the range is). Then do another static calibration with pedals in the 3 & 9 o’clock positions (without being clipped in). Once your all calibrated, your good to go. You shouldn’t have to reset the angles again unless you take the batteries out. You already rechecked the torque so you should be good there. The dynamic calibration is fairly simple, just randomly back pedal when you’re out riding for 5-8rpms. I’m still using my 310xt at the moment, which doesn’t tell me if the dynamic calibration was successful or not. If you have better head unit (510, 810, & I think the 910 works at well?) it should tell you if that calibration was successful.
All that seemed to help and the 2 powermeters were at 152 and 151 watts for the next short test. Now, I do not know if the powertap is measuring correctly but at least the difference was almost eliminated. I will try w the vectors on the kickr tonight and see if there is any difference.
Anything else I have missed in terms of calibrating the vectors?
Think crank length is set correctly but might need to reset angles? Also, I cannot figure out how to do the dynamic calibration where I am spposed to pedal backwards for some time. I do it but nothing seems to happen.
Thanks.
A
The power meters will never read exactly the same. If anything the vector should be slightly higher because with the powertap you get some drive train loss.
I have had a powertap for a while and then also got a set of Vectors (and a Wahoo Kickr…). However, I felt power numbers were off on the vectors so this am i did a comparison riding with the powertap and the vectors. Average power for a couple of minutes: vector 120 watts, pt 150 watts…
Started working on the vectors:
– rechecked the torque so it is at 35 newton meters
– did a static calibration
– took out the batteries
All that seemed to help and the 2 powermeters were at 152 and 151 watts for the next short test. Now, I do not know if the powertap is measuring correctly but at least the difference was almost eliminated. I will try w the vectors on the kickr tonight and see if there is any difference.
Anything else I have missed in terms of calibrating the vectors?
Think crank length is set correctly but might need to reset angles? Also, I cannot figure out how to do the dynamic calibration where I am spposed to pedal backwards for some time. I do it but nothing seems to happen.
Thanks.
A
For the dynamic calibration, pedal backwards approximately 10-20 times. It should notify you when calibration is complete.
Per Garmin, the ability to do a dynamic calibration (pedaling backwards) has been removed. I guess now you just do the static calibration and that should do for the whole ride? I liked the ability to re-calibrate while on the ride, always nice to confirm the numbers you are seeing. I don’t know why they would have removed that option.
Per Garmin, the ability to do a dynamic calibration (pedaling backwards) has been removed. I guess now you just do the static calibration and that should do for the whole ride? I liked the ability to re-calibrate while on the ride, always nice to confirm the numbers you are seeing. I don’t know why they would have removed that option.
Correct.
The only thing I see missing from the list is that I’d recommend doing a short 2-4 sprints (just 10-20sec is fine), just to settle in. Then pop batteries and re-calibrate. To be clear, this is roughly in line with what you’d do with a Quarq as well (just a bit more settle time). Fwiw, I do these sprints on a trainer, since it’s easier to just do all the calibration there in one shot.
You are missing nothing. The Vector pedal power meter system is the most frustrating piece of garbage I have ever owned. I have been trying to get mine working for a year with no luck. Garmin support wants me to keep repeating the same steps over and over. I am so turned off that I want to junk all the Garmin equipment I own and start over with ANYTHING else. I’m sorry, but you wasted your money.
Per Garmin, the ability to do a dynamic calibration (pedaling backwards) has been removed. I guess now you just do the static calibration and that should do for the whole ride? I liked the ability to re-calibrate while on the ride, always nice to confirm the numbers you are seeing. I don’t know why they would have removed that option.
Possibly because pedaling backwards exerts a small reverse-torque, not zero torque. This has the potential to cause errors (as, e.g., occur when you set the zero offset of a Quarq by back-pedaling against a stickier/stiffer-than-assumed freehub).
And, I’ve had a pair of pedals for over a year and have had absolutely no issues. Funny.
Ditto (well, there was one occasion when the left pedal seemed to refuse to ‘wake up’ and pair w/ the 810…don’t know if it was the cold, rain, the fact that I was around a dozen other powermeter-using cyclists, or user-error on my part).
I will admit, though, that I haven’t swapped the pedals around that much…maybe half-a-dozen times in total?
There is no more dynamic calibration available nor needed with SW update. Pedaling backwards no longer calibrates the Vector. You can stop doing it. If you go over to Garmin forum, you will instantly find all the answers.
Per Garmin, the ability to do a dynamic calibration (pedaling backwards) has been removed. I guess now you just do the static calibration and that should do for the whole ride? I liked the ability to re-calibrate while on the ride, always nice to confirm the numbers you are seeing. I don’t know why they would have removed that option.
Correct.
The only thing I see missing from the list is that I’d recommend doing a short 2-4 sprints (just 10-20sec is fine), just to settle in. Then pop batteries and re-calibrate. To be clear, this is roughly in line with what you’d do with a Quarq as well (just a bit more settle time). Fwiw, I do these sprints on a trainer, since it’s easier to just do all the calibration there in one shot.
I don’t have these pedals, but have a friend asking me about calibrating them (v1 garmin vector pedals) since he feels they’re reading especially low since the bike swap. He’s taken them off one bike and put them on another bike. I see later in this thread that pedaling backwards is no longer required…? Steps for calibrating?
Need to use a torque wrench when installing? torque value?
Related question: on paper, if the bikes have different cranks of the same length but the cranks flex at differing rates, this shouldn’t affect the pedals power reading. But in reality, does it?
