I have several FSA cranks on some of my bikes. They are loosening on their own. I went to tighten one of them and the 8mm wrench just turned into the soft bolt—like a hot knife thru butta’. I have the SL-K and the Team Issue models. Both are with MegaExo BB. I have been told to use a Dremel to cut a slot in the bolt and try to unscrew it. Anyone done this before? Tips? Anyone else have issues with their FSA cranks? Any suggestions for an aftermarket crankbolt that will not strip when I sneeze on it?
Well known issue with FSA cranks. Blue Loctite on the threads can help. I don’t use FSA cranks any longer (had 2, both with issues - non drive side arm loosening issue, fixed fine with blue loctite, and pedal insert coming out on another top of the line K-Force light). They were very good abut warranty claim though (under 1 year) and sent a new crank and extra rings for my trouble.
Got the crank bolt out. I gently tapped the 8mm wrench into the bolt and loosened it. Should I get a new bolt and continue or sell all 3 sets of FSA cranks and go with another brand? Any suggestions for other brands?
My advice (since you’re asking) 
would be to replace the cranks eventually (can likely sell 'em on ebay). Shimano cranks are pretty reliable and stout. SRAM cranks a bit cheaper and no major issues either. No real reason to look into the boutique stuff unless a hobby/weight weenie bike.
Thanks for the advice. I have lots of bikes (road, off-road, tri, single speed, geared…). Most are Shimano. I thought I would join the carbon crank crowd and get some FSA’s. I got all 3 sets new or slightly used on ebay. I have been happy with them up until now. I will probably return to Shimano. Maybe SRAM. Thoughts on Easton?
Know little nor have heard much about the Easton Cranks. If you must have a carbon crank, the SRAM Force/Red are pretty tested, easy to find, and stout. I personally wouldn’t “risk” the Eastons as there is very little to no “performance” gain in cranks. You simply want them to WORK.
common problem with the slightly older models.
suggest replacing with shimano, or some of the newer fsa cranks which work just like the shimano ones
once they go loose once, it is game over
common problem with the slightly older models.
suggest replacing with shimano, or some of the newer fsa cranks which work just like the shimano ones
**once they go loose once, it is game over **
I have them on several bikes but I agree with the above.
I had the same problem several years ago. I had to tighten the cranks every so often. I used some blue locktite and haven’t had a problem since. No need to spend more money and go thru the trouble of selling them. It’s a simple fix.
x2,
Seriously, use some blue locktite and torque them to the correct spec and its not an issue. I move my FSA team issue around between 3 bikes and have only had this issue twice both times I forgot to put fresh locktite, after I got home and removed the arm and put it on I was good to go again. Calling it game over is stupid.
Will not always work. In my case even red loctite didn’t work.
But it IS worth a try, as long as you bring an allen wrench with you on the next few rides in case it doesn’t work.
I had the same problem several years ago. I had to tighten the cranks every so often. I used some blue locktite and haven’t had a problem since. No need to spend more money and go thru the trouble of selling them. It’s a simple fix.
The issue is a steel spindle (is that right? the part that goes through the BB) and the nut in the crank arm is a softer metal, if you call FSA to get a replacement nut (for lack of a better word) the issue will be solved again.
That is some good intel there.
thanks
too late for me! hopefully will help others!
The issue is a steel spindle (is that right? the part that goes through the BB) and the nut in the crank arm is a softer metal, if you call FSA to get a replacement nut (for lack of a better word) the issue will be solved again.
THANKS to all the STers for the great info. Someone posted that the pedal inserts were an issue, too. My drive-side pedal does have a little play in it at the crank insert. Is this another issue to be concerned about? or just get the blue loctite and hit the road? BTW, this crankset is about 3-4 years old.
http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/prhtml11/11045.html
FSA recall… Just a FYI…
The issue is a steel spindle (is that right? the part that goes through the BB) and the nut in the crank arm is a softer metal, if you call FSA to get a replacement nut (for lack of a better word) the issue will be solved again.
Actually the real issue is the spacing of the MegaExo bottom bracket. All of our bikes have FSA cranks and I found this issue with an FSA SRM in which case replacing the crankset was not a cost effective option so I found a solution and other than megaexo bearing wear, have not had a problem since. Newer FSA megaexo cranksets come with a wave spring washer designed to maintain constant tension between bottom bracket bearing face and the non-drive side crankarm so the issue with loosening usually does not happen for properly torqued crankarms. For the older cranks, the issue with the non-drive side crank arm is usually a result of spacing being too wide which does not allow enough of the crank spindle to extend beyond the bottom bracket on the non-drive side thus the non-drive side crankarm cannot be adequately tightened because bearing pre-load results in a crank that does not spin. A simple check is to remove the non-drive side crank arm and apply pressure on the drive side to ensure spindle is fully inserted then visually inspect the spindle on the non-drive side. If you cannot see at least 2-3mm past the end of the splines, then the spacing is too wide and the non-drive side crank arm will not be able to be properly torqued.
I owe you an apology…
I was wrong and will be sending my quarq FSA team issue back to have it swapped to a new FSA SLK.
They are going to warranty my current FSA cranks and then send them back to me.
Quarq customer service is second to none, Mieke was helping me right now at 11PM!!! from her house.
Hello,
Had the same problem, already loosened my non drive side pedal too many times, about every 2000km. I can trace it to the insufficient amount of torque the smallish allen used for the cap/central bolt enables. This prevents proper “locking” the system after tightening the two side bolts. This is a design defect, but I’ve not reported it, because last time I reported a defect I was made to understand that as an Industrial designer, my word is worthless to the PHD laden material engineers that design bike parts.
But anyhow, this is how to repair it:
- Put bike down on a pillow or thick sheet, drive side down, with drive side pedal removed.
- Find a FLAT screwdriver that is a tiny itsy too big to fit the round hole - compare it to the original allen - it should only be wider by 1mm to the diagonal of the original allen.
- Slowly but firmly tap in the screwdriver. Check that it is straight ON 2 AXIS every few taps - Drive down by about 5 to10mm
- Untighten the two side bolts.
- Apply liberal ammount of WD-40 trying to aim at the thread of the central bolt.
- Let it rest for about an hour. Apply WD-40 again. Check the direction of thread (you can just see it if you remove the 2 side bolts).
- Grip the handle of your screwdriver with a wrench. Hold frame down with your knees. Pedal held between legs.
- With a slow “bumping” two hands twist you should be able to easily remove central bolt.
The next step is either “quick and have the same problem later” or “lets solve this MOFU”.
-The quick way is to go to your LBS and buy another bolt, but you will have the same problem later.
-The hard way is to get your tools out and make a bigger allen hole.
This is how to do a bigger allen hole, this implies that you have patience (3 hours) and can hold tools relatively straight.
- If your central bolt does not have a see throu hole, do it now, to the diagonal of original allen, in a vice, protecting the thread AND do it straight.
- Chose your prefered allen size (I took the same size as the bolt for my seat 2 sizes up - 10mm if my memory is good).
- Cut it about 20 to 30 mm below its shoulder (this is hardened steel - so apply a bit of WD-40 every 20/30 secs in the cut).
- Hold it in a vice, and straighten the cut of the long straight part that you will use. Do not lap the edges, you need them to be “sharp”. Take out of vice.
- Wrap the thread of the central bolt with a strip of rag 5 to 10 times. Hold in vice - be gentle, you can easily ovalise or crush it.
- If you are not sure, place on the ground on a good bashing surface (hint - not new ceramic floor in kitchen) with 4 layers of rag underneath.
- Center the allen and tap it in, take care to keep the allen straight and centered, take your time.
- You should be able to make the first 2 to 5mm of your new allen hole.
- For the rest of the material of the hole, you need to file it down using the previous hole as a guide.
- This is quite fast. Start with a triangle file following the splines, finish with a flat file that is no wider than the sides of you new allen.
- Tadaa DONE. This actually not very hard for anybody with opposable thumbs and a developed frontal cortex.
With this done, you can tighten the crank as intended, but conceived by a PHD laden material engineer with little workshop experience, as a plus, they will turn with less drag than before:
- Put cranks back on, all bolts on, don’t tighten anything, do the usual grease, cleaning ladada.
- Tighten central bolt until the you can feel the crank turning less freely - you can use a thread locking paste, but I don’t, I have to clean the bottom bracket often.
- Untighten by 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn, the crank should now turn freely again.
- Tighten side bolts to specification.
- “Lock” central bolt by tightening by 1/8 to 1/6 of a turn. DO NOT OVERDO IT. This was impossible with the original allen size.
- Go ride.
Since this mod, I have had ZERO problems on my FSA cranks, and I live in Flanders, so it see a lot of pavé related vibrations. And it has way less drag!
G
Sorry to hear, but have heard it before. I went through 2 sets of SL-K’s doing this and IMO once they go wobbly they are done. You can fiddle with LockTite, but it will come loose again. I run low end SRAM S150 with a PowerSpline bb and it runs flawlessly. Sorry man…not sure you will find a long standing solution to the FSA issue other than switching them out.