Does this happen if you put the wheel on another bike? Does it happen with another wheel on this bike? Does it happen with a different thru-axle?
If it’s an XD cassette, do you have the 1.85mm spacer installed?
XDR
Haven’t put it on another bike yet.
Another Hed wheel, yes. Premier Tactical and DT Swiss, no.
I don’t have another axle to try.
please post a Picture of the small cog end of the free hub with the cassette.
take the brake pads out and give it a spin, it could be one of the pistons inside the brake doesn’t release when the lever is released, happened to me on my mountain bike.
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straight rotor
no rotor rub
thru axil isn’t bent as far as you know
I am not familiar with the newer HED hub, did HED help you troubleshoot how to decrease the load on the bearings?
Going to assume when you back the thru axil out the wheel does have some slight lateral play, correct?
If it doesn’t then the load on the bearings needs to be “unloaded”.
Is there a rubber grommet or washer of sorts that was included for the non-drive side? If so remove it, and give that a go.
I have a whole bunch of HED wheels on different bikes. Both QR, and through axle. They are amazing wheels and I rarely had any issues with them, however - I had one Jet+ QR wheel that I converted from Shimano to XDR hub.
The wheel would spin fine and smooth without a chain installed. As soon as I put the chain on and would let it free spin, it behaved like the one in your video, and would try to keep the chain, and cranks rotating. The spacer that came with the XDR hub was installed, and everything was torqued properly and freshly greased.
On the bench I could feel a slight resistance/rubbing when I pressed the freehub towards the hub and turned it by hand.
Again, the little spacer was installed, everything was properly greased.
I removed the wheel bearings, inspected them, pressed them back in, removed the freehub bearings, inspected them and pressed them back in, installed everything back - same result.
I then found a slightly thicker spacer (maybe 0.5mm thicker or so), put that one on between the hub and the freehub, and voila - problem solved!
So, I had a similar issue when I was putting on my new Princeton Carbonworks wheels and it turned out that the rotor lockring was causing everything to bind. It would spin fine until I tightened the thru axle. I was initially using an Absolute Black center lock rotor lockring and it was for some reason, causing everything to bind in the hub. Changed it out to a basic shimano lockring and worked perfectly fine. Just my $.02. Hope you figure it out!
I literally took everything that attaches to the wheel and hub off and reinstalled one by one until I isolated the problem.
It was the lockring. I found an inner spline one that was on the DT Swiss wheels and it made a world of difference. The calipers need to be widen some too. Trying to figure that out.
I had the one on the left. Needed one like the one on the right. Much thinner.
The inner caliper piston is not detracting fully when the brake is disengaged so the inner caliper is pushed in a bit which is also causing a problem.
The piston is either slightly out of round or shifted in the track. It’s fixable if the piston itself is not damaged. You can try and force it with a syringe full of brake fluid with the bleed cap sealed and see if you can reseat it. Mine was out of shape due to overheating the brakes riding a trail out of my league.
I’d replace the caliper, save the headache.
I couldn’t get it back in. Took it to the shop. They said it’s a never ending problem with SRAM brakes, the DOT fluid, and Florida humidity. Way less of an issue with the mineral oil from my understanding.