I have a generic hub that has no markings on it. The freehub is really chewed up from middle cogs and I think it needs to be replaced.
Will any shimano compatible 10 speed freehub fit on here or are their specific sizes or types I need to be aware of? And is there anything I should look for so the new freehub will be a little more durable so I don’t have to do this again for awhile?
thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
Barry
They are all different, and you will need to replace with one of the same type. If you post a picture (or at minimum, tell us what it is) folks on here might be able to steer you towards the correct replacement part.
You likely won’t have much in the way of more durable options.
There’s generally 2 or 3 manufacturers for generic or oem hubs; Joytech, Novatech and KT.
Once you’ve worked out which it is, then you have to go further into the minefield to narrow it down, 10 or 11spd? how it bolts to the hub and type of outboard bearing?
From experience Giant and Bontrager tend to be Joytechs (not talking the better quality wheels with DT freehubs) but i’ve had them with both male and female fittings.
Powertap was Novatec.
Older reynolds and cheaper Zipp were KT.
Then sourcing a replacement is something else again!
To prevent the chewing in future, buy a cassette made mainly as a block instead of all separate sprockets or soource some American Classic anti bite guards
thank for the reply - the wheel is an old Gigantex wheel from Taiwan. There are no markings on the hub. The freehub has a small stamp of BG7 on it. There are 9 peaks and 9 valleys (splines?) on it and there are 3 sets of pawls. Hopefully these pictures will help, I’m not too good with editing.
thanks for any help!
There’s nothing wrong with your freehub body.
the reason I was checking is I’ve having skipping problems when shifting up and down in a couple gears and no adjustment has helped. The chain is ok, so I thought maybe the cassette was worn and I would swap to another. I couldn’t get some of the cogs off and had to force them backwards to get them out of the groove they’d dug into the freehub. I’ve seen wear on my other freehubs, but not this bad where I’ve had to force the cogs off. I was wondering if this misalignment was causing the shifting problem. I don’t mind replacing it while I’ve got it apart, but if I don’t need to spend the $$ that’s even better.
That’s pretty bad, but it probably isn’t causing the shifting symptoms you describe. That sounds like you need a new cassette. I’d try that first.
Before you put on a new cassette, use a fine tooth file to flatten the “bumps” on the outward face of the freehub body that were raised when the cassette imbedded itself in the freehub body. This will help a lot with installation/removal.
Every one of my aluminium free hubs across 4 bikes look like that. All work perfectly well.
All I do is file down the raised burrs just to make it easier to get the cassette back on again.
(As others say its a result of the steel individual rear rings digging in - whereas a cassette with a machines Alu carrier spreads the load over a far bigger area).
Slight PITA sometimes getting a cassette off again as the rear rings can dig back into the same dents - just have to use a mallet to get the freehub body out of the cassette).
Only one thst isn’t has a steel freehub. Some freehubs (some DT ???) have steel inserts in the edges of the splines to prevent it.