Franken-Cassette

Ohh yes I did …
I wanted a 10 spd DA cassette with an 11 t …
Soooo I took a 12-27 and 11-21 and went all Mary Shelly and make a Franken-Cassette
In the end the ratio ended up …
11-12-13-15-16-17-19-21-24-27

I will test it today …

Anybody have any experience in Franken-Cassette’ology ???
Am I upsetting the natural order ???

I run a front 54-39 and like a bit of a range for climbing and TT efforts …

Tx for replying …

SMW

FWIW I like it:)

Hugh
.

I like it. Saves the higher gears(lower tooth count) that you use all the time but gives you the 24 and 27 “backup plan” gears. I use a standard 11-28 a lot and sometimes miss the lack of slow progressiveness between the low tooth count gears.

Why not just go to an Ultegra 11-28?

11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-28

Little cleaner in the middle going 1 tooth between 11 and 15, 2 teeth between 15 and 21 and then 3 an 4 for 24 and 28

Your ratios: vs 11-28
4.9 4.9
4.5 4.5
4.15 4.15
3.6 3.85
3.37 3.6
3.17 3.17

That .55 jump between 13 and 15 to me would be really annoying
The 11-28 goes .4,.35,.3,.25,.53

While the .53 jump in ratio between 15 and 17 seems equally as large as the .55 jump in the 13 to 15, I find 3.6 to 4.15 much more of a jump than 3.17 to 3.6

Good comment … 13-15 ratio jump
Just didn’t want to buy a new cassette.
Whatever way I go there will be a bit of a ratio jump …
I will see if it is a PITA today.

Why not just go to an Ultegra 11-28?

11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-28

I actually like the SRAM 11-28 better

11,12,13,14,15,17,19,22,25,28

raaaaaaattttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttllllllllllllleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
.

All a matter of preference. I tend to like a little more lower, so 21 vs 22 and 24 vs 25. By the time I hit the 28, I really am looking for more like 32, so it is mash and grind time anyway and cadence is shot.

Ultegra SRAM
1.79 1.79
1.62 1.54
1.41 1.36
1.21 1.21

25 to 28 (.15 based upon compact crank 34 small ring) to me is not a big enough step in gearing feel as the .2 of the 24 to 28

I also find the Shimano ration .17 - .21 - .20 more uniform than .25 - .18 - .15

May seem counter intuitive, but again, I find .17 from 19 to 21 more useful and less of a step than .25 from 19 - 22. Probably a feel issue

Your mileage may vary.

I was thinking about this at one point but someone said the individual cogs are designed specifically for the set and a mix/match approach probably wouldn’t work. How did you get the 11 to sit on top of the 12 - they are both “top” of the stack configuration meant to have the lock ring screwed down.

Ohh yes I did …
I wanted a 10 spd DA cassette with an 11 t …
Soooo I took a 12-27 and 11-21 and went all Mary Shelly and make a Franken-Cassette
In the end the ratio ended up …
11-12-13-15-16-17-19-21-24-27

I will test it today …

Anybody have any experience in Franken-Cassette’ology ???
Am I upsetting the natural order ???

I run a front 54-39 and like a bit of a range for climbing and TT efforts …

Tx for replying …

SMW

What was the rationale for this, from your personal preference perspective?

It looks like all you are doing is taking a standard, DA 11-27 cassette which is this:

11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-27

and then giving up the 14 tooth cog for a 16 tooth cog.

Now I can understand missing that 16 tooth cog. For me it’s always a choice between having an 11 or having a 16. I can go 12-27 and have that 16-tooth but no 11 or 11-27 and lose that 16 tooth.

But given that I often miss the 16, I think that I would miss a 14 even more than that. You don’t?

Incidentally, when Shimano came out with 11-speed, I was very excited. I figured it would be a natural for them to make an 11-27 that then had a 16-tooth. Like this:

11-12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-24-27

That’s the cassette I’ve wanted for a while. But instead they don’t offer that option in either DA 9000 or Ultegra 6800. Instead, you get an 11-28 which, once again, is missing a 16-tooth cog but gives you one extra tooth on the end.

11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25-28

Grrrr.

First world problems.

I was thinking about this at one point but someone said the individual cogs are designed specifically for the set and a mix/match approach probably wouldn’t work.

There was a time when cogs did not have ramps. You could still shift. It did not work quite as well under power so you would ease up on the pedals a bit as the shift happened.

There was a time when cogs did not have ramps. You could still shift. It did not work quite as well under power so you would ease up on the pedals a bit as the shift happened.

I still do that. I’ve wanted to Franken-ize a cassette to 11-14-15-16-17-18-19-20-22-25. Much more useful for TT’s.

What is it with people and their voodoo beliefs about the 16 tooth cog?

FWIW, you are all pussies, as I personally ride a 11-12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-27. I call it SavageMan.

DA 7800 was 12-27. Maybe he already had 7800 in 11-21 and 12-27 (like me) and didn’t want to drop extra $$$ on a new 7900 11-27? I think I’m going to sell off my 12-27 and go with an 11-28.

What was the rationale for this, from your personal preference perspective?

It looks like all you are doing is taking a standard, DA 11-27 cassette which is this:

11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-24-27

What is it with people and their voodoo beliefs about the 16 tooth cog?

FWIW, you are all pussies, as I personally ride a 11-12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-27. I call it SavageMan.

It’s not voodoo, just gearing and cadence. And it’s only on the tri-bike. On the long, relatively flat sections of a race, I find I do much better when I can keep my cadence relatively even. Without that cog the jumps are bigger than I’d like.

I can race just fine without the 16 but I do better with it.

I just did IM Austria and had to decide between the 11-27 with the bigger gear or 12-27 and the 16-tooth. I chose the 12-27. Missed the 11 a couple of times very briefly but it was the right decision. Was able to keep the effort very even without big changeups.

I was thinking about this at one point but someone said the individual cogs are designed specifically for the set and a mix/match approach probably wouldn’t work. How did you get the 11 to sit on top of the 12 - they are both “top” of the stack configuration meant to have the lock ring screwed down.

My guess is the 11 and 12 are BOTH from the 11-21

I just like the 25 next to the 28.

If I’m in that gear I’m going uphill, if I’m not going uphill I’m most likely nearer the 13,14,15 anyway.

Yeah - no idea why that didn’t occur to me.

My guess is the 11 and 12 are BOTH from the 11-21