It’s been asked a bunch but I thought I’d ask again.
I’m thinking of getting three FLO wheels.
Disc - that’s a done deal
60 front - done deal
60 or 90 rear?
I’ll be using the 60/60 or 60/90 combo in every day training along with road races. I’ll use the 60/disc combo in races.
Thoughts?
so the 60 front and disc rear is a done deal? cool. that is their fastest setup for everyone short of Tony Martin.
we need to know why you want another rear wheel.
is it cause you’re gonna go to Kona or somewhere else that prohibits discs? if so, get the 90.
is it cause you’re gonna race crits or draft legal? if so, get the 60 for the weight savings.
$0.02
ps: i had a 60 front. it looked like a really nice wheel. if i was in the market, i’d buy from FLO.
unless i misunderstood them on their blog, they said the 60/60 combo is the fastest outside of 12 degrees of yaw or something. Of course, the disc trumps all rear wheels not matter what.
This is my first post. I tried searching but could not find an exact answer. I ride in the 19-22mph average depending on course for half IM. I am looking to get a Flo wheel setup. I had thought the 60 front and disc rear would be great. On the Flo website it says the disc is not a good choice for training, why is that? I hear people getting a 60 or 90 for the rear and adding a cover for races. I would prefer to avoid that if I can. What is wrong with using a disc on training rides?
I’m waiting on my 60 to come in … but will be running 60/90 for training and 90/Disc for racing.
If it’s really windy I’ll run the 60/Disc for racing.
The 90/Disc for racing made sense for me since I generally run in the mid 27 mph to low 28 mph range for ITT’s. But since training, at least from an overall perspecitive, takes place at a lower pace … the 60/90 combo makes more sense. I also went with the Clydesdale rear for training since I’m low 190’s for race weight and I wanted the extra durability for training.
If I get around to getting some of these, it’ll likely be a 60/90 combo for me. Reason being, I understand a deeper rear than front aids stability in crosswinds. However, for crits, 60 is likely better.
Its mostly because people will make fun of you for riding a disc while training. It won’t hurt anything to use the disc if you want to, just be prepared for some funny looks from other cyclists.
Welcome to the forum Chris. I wouldn’t want to train on a disc wheel because:
Extremely, dorky. You’ll be the butt of many many jokes.Rocks will hit it.Wind will blow it around a bit. Some people say a disc “stabilizes” you, but I don’t find that entirely true.It’s generally heavier than a traditional wheel, though this is not really that major.Can be difficult to get air in on a day to day basis.If you hit a pot hole, how difficult is it to true?More expensive to replace than a regular training wheel. 32 spoke Mavic Open Pro or DTSwiss are bombproof and pretty cheap.
That 60/disc is a great combo to race halfs on, but keep a crappy wheelset to do the training miles on. I know you said you wanted to avoid a cover, but I have a PowerTap laced into a 32-spoke Mavic Open Pro. I slap the wheelcover on it when I want to race. Basically a crazy cheap training wheel and disc wheel. Good luck.
Welcome to the forum Chris. I wouldn’t want to train on a disc wheel because:
Extremely, dorky. You’ll be the butt of many many jokes.Rocks will hit it.Wind will blow it around a bit. Some people say a disc “stabilizes” you, but I don’t find that entirely true.It’s generally heavier than a traditional wheel, though this is not really that major.Can be difficult to get air in on a day to day basis.If you hit a pot hole, how difficult is it to true?More expensive to replace than a regular training wheel. 32 spoke Mavic Open Pro or DTSwiss are bombproof and pretty cheap.
That 60/disc is a great combo to race halfs on, but keep a crappy wheelset to do the training miles on. I know you said you wanted to avoid a cover, but I have a PowerTap laced into a 32-spoke Mavic Open Pro. I slap the wheelcover on it when I want to race. Basically a crazy cheap training wheel and disc wheel. Good luck.
Yeah, it’s pretty dorky, but I think 6 and 7 above are key. Discs are generally lower mileage wheels. The more time you spend on a wheel, the more likely it is to need service for some reason. (Truing, replacing a spoke, replacing a rim…) That’s going to be much more of a pain with a disc than a traditional wheel.
I ended up getting two 60s and I’ll get a disc on the next order run. So I’ll train every day on 60s and race on the disc.
Since the carbon isn’t structural it’s not the end of the world if it gets a knock from a rock. Heck, it could even be cracked. As long as the carbon isn’t going to fly into the spokes (which I don’t think would happen) I should be good.
I can also tru the 60s.
Plus you look like bad ass with 60mm wheels on your road bike :).