I’m looking to learn more about fixing a flat tire on the road, watched some YouTube videos, etc.
What is best repair kit?
Also, is there assistance on the course that can help if struggling during Ironman events?
The only thing I can think to do is simply practice. Take your tires and tubes totally off and on a few times. Once you have watched someone else, the next step is to do it yourself. Buy some cheap bulk tubes to practice with so you won’t be sad if you wreck a few.
The best kit is one you have practiced and are comfortable changing a tube with.
For all rides and races I bring at a minimum - tube, tire lever (I like pedro’s), and an inflator & C02 cartridge.
Generally there is support available if you are having mechanical issues. That being said I have been at many race briefings that state the support is for problems more severe than flats and that everyone should have the equipment to and be able to change a flat tire.
It sounds as if you want to repair the tube. Is that correct?
If you are competing in an IM use CO2, it is much faster than a pump. If you just want to complete an IM bring a pump and 3 spare tubes, you can’t go wrong with a pump and you can pump up multiple flats.
Minimum kit is:
1 tube (pre-wrapped with teflon tape or with a spare valve extender attached if you use deep wheels)
1 tire lever (unless you have tires that go on easy…and really strong thumbs)
1 CO2
Personally, my kit is the following (goal is to always be able to get to T2, not speed of repair):
1 tube (keep another in special needs to restock if needed…people who use CO2 also put in a spare cartridge)
1 tire lever (Crank Bros Speed Lever)
Adhesive patches (if things really go bad and I get multiple flats)
1 mini pump (a lot slower than CO2, but can be used multiple times)
There is neutral support on course, but it can take a long time to reach you. They are of more use if you have a major mechanical (broken chain, cracked wheel, etc.), or are in the lead group (where they shadow).
I always have the following on my bike for either training or racing:
spare tubemultitool (includes tyre level & chain link tool)2xCO canisters & an inflatora tiny pack of self adhesive patchesminipump (very small pocket rocket, won’t get much pressure but will do the job)That covers most eventualities and isn’t too bulky. You could skip the pump but it does leave you a little exposed, especially for training. Or you could the CO2 if you’re okay with spending an extra 5 mins inflating with a mini-pump and still not getting full pressure (the Lezyne Drive on my road bike does pretty well, the Pocket Rocket on the tri-bike will get it rideable)
Practice changing the tube bearing in mind the following:
Take the wheel off the bike (probably obvious!)Fully deflate the tube and push the bead to the middle of the rim all the way around to maximise slack and make it easier to get the tyre off. After you remove the tube, check if it was a pinch puncture or a penetration (2 slits side by side is tell tale sign of a pinch). If it’s a pinch just install a new tube. Otherwise check the tyre for anything that might puncture the next tube. I have a quick look first for anything obvious, then run my finger around the inside surface to see if I feel anything. Be careful not to cut your finger (that’s why you look first!)A lot of people seem to complain about repeat punctures during one ride and blame conditions. I’m always very suspicious it’s because they didn’t remove the cause of the original puncture! Speed is important, not having a repeat puncture is even more important.
I’m looking to learn more about fixing a flat tire on the road, watched some YouTube videos, etc.
What is best repair kit?
Also, is there assistance on the course that can help if struggling during Ironman events?
Phil,
While you’re at it, just as important as getting the tire on and off is getting the wheel off and on correctly. Make sure that you know what you’re completely up to speed in regard to that process. Some bikes are easier than others depending on their dropout configuration. The last thing you want is to have your brakes rubbing for the rest of the bike after you successfully get the tire changed because you haven’t practiced that part of the process.
Hugh
The only thing I can think to do is simply practice. Take your tires and tubes totally off and on a few times. Once you have watched someone else, the next step is to do it yourself. Buy some cheap bulk tubes to practice with so you won’t be sad if you wreck a few.
^^This. And as part of the practice, if you are going to use CO2 in a race, use it to air your tire once or twice in practice. Those things can be really easy to mess up (especially if you don’t realize how cold it gets and drop it), and some valves are easier to use than others.
Based on side-of-the-road conversations with people who “learned” how to change a tube from watching videos, they pretty much all leave out a couple basic things. First of all, if it is the back tire (and it will be–it always is), you need to have your back gear in the smallest cog (NOT easiest gear) before you try to take the wheel off. Putting it in the smallest chainring will also help, but the back will make a huge difference in how easily that wheel slips off and back into position.
Second, unless you are just practicing, you need to always check the old tire for debris or you will immediately get another flat. Sometimes the cut can be easier to find in the tube because a small shard of glass or thorn can get so embedded in the tire that you will have a hard time feeling it. Always pick a spot on the tire that lines up with the valve stem. For example, regardless of the brand, I line the first letter of the brand name of the tire up with the valve stem. That way, if you find a small hole on the tube, you know exactly where to look on the tire to make sure that nothing is embedded in there.
Those are the big things. There are also small things you can do like storing your tube in a bagging with baby powder so it doesn’t get a hole in it while sitting in your saddle bag and it slides into place in the tire more easily. With presta valves, you can also easily blow up the tube slightly with your mouth before putting it in the tire/on the rim to make it easier to position.
I recently bought a set of Planet X carbon wheels. They had Tufo tyres on them fixed in place with Tufo tape. I recently got a puncture that I was unable to repair with sealant so I took the tyre off to put a new one on. When I bought the wheels I also got a spare Tufo tyre and tape which I am planning to use.
After taking it off I noticed that previous tyres had been glued on with the result that there was a layer of old glue on the rim underneath the tape. I have taken all the old tape off the rim and was hoping to clean the glue off too using acetone/white spirits but the local shops don’t have any so any other suggestions for cleaning the rim are welcome.
I wanted to get everyone’s opinion on whether or not it would be ok to clean off as much of the glue as possible from the rim and just put the tape over it? My concern is whether the strength of the bond of the tape will be sufficient given the existing old layer of glue and also if the uneven surface of the rim with the glue on it will effect ride quality too badly?
In summary what are peoples opinions on fitting Tufo Tub Tape to a rim that has old glue on it?
First of all,this should be a separate thread.
I used the tufo tape at first (changed to effetto mariposa corogna) but it’s critical to use the tape on a clean rim. Don’t put it over old glue.
If acetone or effetto corogna remover doesn’t work you gotta use some solid plastic knife or something similar and take your time to clean the rim.
The EM tape is in the end easier to remove from the rim than the tufo tape cause of its thickness of glue.
To the OP…like others said practice works best and don’t count on technical support on course…they passed you a minute ago when you get into trouble.(believe me I had to walk a fair bit with a twisted chain after a chain suck)
Thanks for the reply Shoki.
New thread started. For some reason the option to start a new thread was not available to me earlier.