So I recently read in Joe Friel’s Training Bible that one way to improve pedaling economy/efficiency is to ride a fixie. So being the owner of an SS commuter bike with flip/flop hub I figured why not start riding the fixed gear instead of the freewheel. I’m not a particularly experienced cyclist so working on spinning in circles should be helpful.
Now a few days in, I’m finding the gearing I have on there (53/15) is pretty hard to turn, especially after my legs are fatigued from a morning ride. I’d say my cadence is about 70 on the fixie (educated guess). Commute is 6.5 mi each way (11 each way, one day a week for my part time job).
So, since I commute as much as 75 mi a week on the bike (and will ramp up to probably a little over 200 mi /wk this summer for training, that includes commuting), should I change the rear cog to be able to maintain a higher cadence? Or should I stop bitching and moaning under the “If you want to go faster, you have to push big gears” philosophy?
So I recently read in Joe Friel’s Training Bible that one way to improve pedaling economy/efficiency is to ride a fixie. So being the owner of an SS commuter bike with flip/flop hub I figured why not start riding the fixed gear instead of the freewheel. I’m not a particularly experienced cyclist so working on spinning in circles should be helpful.
Now a few days in, I’m finding the gearing I have on there (53/15) is pretty hard to turn, especially after my legs are fatigued from a morning ride. I’d say my cadence is about 70 on the fixie (educated guess). Commute is 6.5 mi each way (11 each way, one day a week for my part time job).
So, since I commute as much as 75 mi a week on the bike (and will ramp up to probably a little over 200 mi /wk this summer for training, that includes commuting), should I change the rear cog to be able to maintain a higher cadence? Or should I stop bitching and moaning under the “If you want to go faster, you have to push big gears” philosophy?
This is obviously a relative question…what’s too hard for one person is going to be too easy for another. The other part of this is how hilly the ride is. If the ride is flat then you can gear it a little tougher.
Personally, I’ve got my fixie set up so I spin around 90 rpm on the flats at a pace that I consider on the low end of “work”.
Right, I understand “hard” is very relative, that’s a good point, let me try to clarify.
I looking to get the most benefit out of riding a fixie to work. Particular as it relates to efficient pedal stroke. Therefore, will your average age grouper (1:08:xx for 40k, 2:34:xx for 56mi) benefit more from lower cadence “harder” (for me), or higher cadence “easier” riding on a fixie.
The ride is mostly flat along the Charles river, with some hills (nothing I consider difficult on a geared bike) getting closer to home.
Right, I understand “hard” is very relative, that’s a good point, let me try to clarify.
I looking to get the most benefit out of riding a fixie to work. Particular as it relates to efficient pedal stroke. Therefore, will your average age grouper (1:08:xx for 40k, 2:34:xx for 56mi) benefit more from lower cadence “harder” (for me), or higher cadence “easier” riding on a fixie.
The ride is mostly flat along the Charles river, with some hills (nothing I consider difficult on a geared bike) getting closer to home.
Thanks.
This is a question that gets thrown around a lot here. There doesn’t appear to be any evidence that pushing big gears (for the sake of pushing a big gear) is any better training than taxing yourself the same way pushing an easier gear (with higher cadence of course).
It all comes down to the amount of stimulus and recovery to become a better rider. If you gear your fixie too hard, then you may be riding too hard too often which can lead it injury. If you gear it too easy, then you could be spinning out and not providing enough stimulus.
I’d gear it in such a way that you can ride easy spinning in the 70s and ride hard around 105 to 110. For me, that equates to a range of approx. 27km/h to 36km/h.
A 53x15 is a huge gear for a fixie. I have a 46x16 on mine, and I occasionally find that to be on the big side for certain hills when my RPMs slow down to 30 or so.
So I recently read in Joe Friel’s Training Bible that one way to improve pedaling economy/efficiency is to ride a fixie. So being the owner of an SS commuter bike with flip/flop hub I figured why not start riding the fixed gear instead of the freewheel. I’m not a particularly experienced cyclist so working on spinning in circles should be helpful.
Now a few days in, I’m finding the gearing I have on there (53/15) is pretty hard to turn, especially after my legs are fatigued from a morning ride. I’d say my cadence is about 70 on the fixie (educated guess). Commute is 6.5 mi each way (11 each way, one day a week for my part time job).
So, since I commute as much as 75 mi a week on the bike (and will ramp up to probably a little over 200 mi /wk this summer for training, that includes commuting), should I change the rear cog to be able to maintain a higher cadence? Or should I stop bitching and moaning under the “If you want to go faster, you have to push big gears” philosophy?
I’d recommend you take off the 53t and put on a 39t chainring.
That gear is HUGE for a street fixie. People run smaller gears than that for racing on the track.
I run either a 48x18 or 45x18 for commuting. My typical speed is around 16-18 mph with that set-up. No idea about cadence, but it’s comfortable…not too fast, not too slow.
a 53x15 corresponds to a 93.19 inch combination. Just for a point of reference, I’m training/racing at the Boulder Indoor Track with a 50x16 - a 82.46. I am not that strong of a rider, but about in the middle of their ‘Expert’ group. The strongest guys at the track ride a 50x15.
Your 53x15 is HUGH.
Listen to SuperDave and swap the 53 for a 39.
I ride my road fixie at lunch with a 45 x 17 which is a 75.83.
Thanks for all the input. I really appreciate it. Since this is the first time I’ve rode a fixie I didn’t realize that this was such a huge ratio.
So I definitely need to switch out the gears.
The cranks on the bike are actually from an old bike (frame cracked which is why I got the SS in the first place) and has a 42t chain ring on it. If I switch to this smaller ring that will put the ratio closer to some of the other set ups people have posted above but obviously still bigger than the suggested 39t.
Will this suffice?
As another reference point I don’t find the freewheel I was riding at 53/18 too bad.
use this calculator and set it to give you the speed at 90 rpm’s the figure out about how fast you typically ride on your commute and look at the combination. For example, a 53 x 19 gear would put you just under 20 mph.
I suspect you might want to get a smaller chainring in the mid 40’s
That 42 would be a good start. Like others have said, you can then have the wide selection of cogs in the back. In my experience its better to be on the small side. If you have a day where there are 25-30MPH headwinds, you will be glad ya did. I have been riding a 43/16 for years but thinking of changing to a 43/17. You will never know your legs had that much leg speed on a steep down hill…lol. Fixed gears are fun. Great rain bike option and u can learn how to track stand too at stop lights. You have to figure out what your ideal gear would be for flats on a calm day. If the course is hilly, then opt for something smaller. Sheldon Brown’s gear calculator will help. Good luck
I have used this ratio for successfully for 35 years as a rider, and coach for road, and track riders. IMHO, the road ‘fixed gear’ or ‘fixed wheel’ is the best tool for training one’s ‘pedalling’. It isn’t easy, or instant, but it works.
i ride a 46/16 in mildly hilly terrain (portland, OR) and it seems to be a good compromise for downhills (limiting out of control spin) and uphills (not killing it to turn em over)
So I recently read in Joe Friel’s Training Bible that one way to improve pedaling economy/efficiency is to ride a fixie.
I’d say Joe is reinforcing two myths here.
I tend to agree, I have ridden fixed bikes in the winter and enjoy havingthe gears so I can ride different and more hilly roads.
The main thing that give me pause is the idea that having a machine whirl one’s legs around somehow translates to a “more supple” (whatever that means) pedal stroke when the rider has to use their own mucles to do the whirling. I suspect there is about zero evidence base for this.
Maybe it helps, maybe it doesn’t. But it surely doesn’t hurt anything. I’m going to be commuting anyway and I have the gear so why not give it a try; worst case scenario, nothing happens.
I come from a swimming background (just in case you didn’t catch that) and found that drills really do help, so if this is anything like that, then I’m willing to try it.
But as for the debate as to whether or not it really works, that’s for a different thread.
Maybe it helps, maybe it doesn’t. But it surely doesn’t hurt anything. I’m going to be commuting anyway and I have the gear so why not give it a try; worst case scenario, nothing happens.
I come from a swimming background (just in case you didn’t catch that) and found that drills really do help, so if this is anything like that, then I’m willing to try it.
But as for the debate as to whether or not it really works, that’s for a different thread.
I agree there is no point debating the merits of big gear and pedaling efficiency gains, it has been beaten to death.
Fixed gear bikes are great for the application you plan to use it for; it certainly won’t hurt riding one. I ride one for work (when I can) and in the spring time when the roads are salty and dirty. Having a bike that requires almost no maintenance is a huge training benefit as it’s always ready to go.
FWIW, I ride a 48x16. In this gear I can ride on the bike path no hands drinking my morning coffee or cruise at a decent speed on the flats. Some climbs are extremely difficult in this gear though - I have been known to zigzag up a couple long steep hills in this setup.