Hello everyone, I have been surfing around in this forum to find a solution and got nothing, I hope anyone can help me because I don’t know what to do.
My bike uses ULTEGRA DI2 shifters. I fell in the road and the shifting got into recovery mode, usually you get out of there by pressing the reset button for 5 or more seconds, but nothing happened. I took it to several experts and they do not know what it can be. My shifting is locked and cannot move it at all and the cables are find (not broken) and the computer says everything is fine, it has battery and the mechanics I took my bike to do not know what to do.
Any help? Thanks in advance. I can send videos and such.
Hold the button often more than 5sec, the light will blink red and then will start to shift through gears, so be ready to rotate the cranks. If that doesn’t work then…
Disconnect the rear derailleur and shift your front a couple times, reconnect rear d/r, if that doesn’t work disconnect the shifters, derailleurs then hit the button on the A Junction, connect the rear d/r last. Last suggestion is if you have Di2 on another bike connect the crashed system to the good one and see if it shifts.
Some strange things work/fix Di2 issues.
Did you by chance connect the system via Bluetooth and E-Tube to troubleshoot? If so and you didn’t disconnect via selecting disconnect then the system will act bricked. Try to connect to Bluetooth and the E-Tube app then select disconnect from the menu in the upper right.
It creates a combination of lights (red - green) unknown for me and the mechanic who checked the bike. Right now the bike is in the store, they are waiting for an email from Shimano to explain them what are those lights. I am going to get the bike today and take it home to try it myself because the mechanic in the store said this is the first time he has seen something like this, a complete mistery.
Not saying you have a bad mechanic per se, but I would try to find one that has a bit more Di2 experience and is willing to phone Shimano.
Things like this are not solved by sending emails back and forth in my experience and Shimano actually have a phone number bike shops can use for support ;-).
I don’t know actually, I never got to see the lights. I am getting the bike and trying myself. Thanks Di2Terry, if you know a specialist I can hire in the distance let me know. Best
(I will upload the video soon I hope today, when I get the bike) Thanks again
I got the bike now. The mechanic couldn’t solve anything.
I have uploaded the video: when I press for 5 secs the lights start blinking (like the video you showed me about the bluetooth connection) and nothing happens.
Here are a couple of random thoughts, they may or may not apply to your situation, but I’ll list everything I can think of right now:
If you connect to the mobile app and then just close the app without using the “disconnect” button, the bike won’t work.
If you have used E-Tube Project 4 for Windows using the SM-BCR2 Charger then that will leave the bike in a not-working and battery-draining state (more here)
Personally I find the SM-EW90 / below-the-stem junction button really hard to press and keep pressed. The display button or even the bar-end junction button are a lot easier to press. I need to press the button reaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaally hard.
I would try this, in no particular order:
Disconnect the battery for 30 seconds and then reconnect it. (according to Shimano this is the closest you can get to a ‘soft reset’):
Connect the bike to E-Tube Project 3.4.5 for Windows (download link on the e-tube site, next to the 4.0.2 download button) and see what components it recognises. Double check every component is there
When you try to apply settings to the shifter, what values are you trying to set? On some bikes E-Tube attempts to use “Cyclecomputer Left/Right”, which isn’t a valid option (unless you have a Shimano “cycle computer” or E-Tube ride device paired). In order to change page on garmin/wahoo/etc you need to set it to channel 1/2.
I disconnected the battery for 30 secs (a bit more) and connected again. RESULT: Nothing new, it keeps not working.
I don’t have Windows, but I will try to run some kind of emulator if I can. The mechanic I took the bike to said he connected the bike to the computer (windows I guess) and everything was “fine and well-connected”.
When connecting it to the Etube, it says I cannot set the shifting, but doesn’t says why.
I will keep trying things.
Thanks again, this mystery is hunting me actually, so frustrating. I will upload another video later.
I have tried everything possible and it doesn’t work, at all. The back rear doesn’t move. However, I discovered an annoying and continuous “clicking sound” somewhere along the system. In this video you can hear it (volume up) a constant “click, click, click, click”
It seems like you might have a mechanically (as opposed to electronically) broken derailleur. “Clicking” sounds like the servo failing to engage properly to move the derailleur.
Thanks Fredly, do you think that changing the derailleur will fix the problem? I will take it to a mechanic of course, but do you think it can be it?
If the derailleur is mechanically broken, yes; will absolutely fix it. It’s easy to tell, just plug another derailleur in and see if it works. Based on what you’ve said on this thread, it’s definitely what I would try at this point if I was working on the bike.
A new “beeping” sound started when, while the battery was charging (I don’t know if this is related), I pressed the right swift (the one that doesn’t work). A new video of the Shimano Ultegra Di2 mystery, btw on 00:13 I receive an email and it sounds, just ignore that:
Interesting!
At first I only heard that email sound, but yeah… that beeping isn’t normal :).
Like Fredly says, the clicking means that the derailleur is trying to move, but cannot. That can be either a mechanical failure or being blocked in some other way (chain extremely short or the limits being set wrong at either end of the cassette/RD).
In your case I agree it looks like the RD is broken.
A bike shop should be able to confirm this by hooking it up to their SM-PCE1 / SM-PCE02 and running error checking/diagnostics on it. If I recall correctly this involves E-Tube telling the RD to shift and then checking whether or not that actually happened.
Note that in some cases a broken RD will still shift if there is no chain installed or when you ‘help’ it by pushing it in the direction it’s trying to shift. That doesn’t mean they’re suddenly fixed though, it should definitely shift without getting a push and should work with a chain installed. Otherwise what is the point :).
I just tried to get my older/indoor RD-6870 to go into crash mode by hitting it with hard objects, but it wouldn’t
