I did first 35 miles on my regular wheels and on the second lap I swap the wheels. Felt pretty stable although there was a strong headwind, some of the places I had crosswinds and did not feel anything. Because of the frame I guess I am used to cross winds? or maybe the winds were not strong enough, i will update later when the fronts came (HED Jet 90).
One thing, the rear wheel choice will not something I can make on the race morning. I found I have to adjust brakes and rear der. when i switch the wheels that was pain in the butt!
Sound was cool, specially if you ride close to a wall and shift I don’t know about the disk or the first time excitement but my second lap (mile 35 to 70) was way faster then my first lap.
I have couple of questions, did I install the cassette wrong or is it normal to adjust rear der. everytime you switch wheels? Same goes for the brake but I think that has to do with the rim.
One thing, the rear wheel choice will not something I can make on the race morning. I found I have to adjust brakes and rear der. when i switch the wheels that was pain in the butt!
If you want to have race wheels then you have to deal with the hassle. For me working on a bike is a pleasure, so making pre-race adjustments starts to put my mind in race mode. When you break out the big guns then you better be ready for pain.
The adjustments you are talking about are common unless you are swapping among wheels of the same brand.
No totally different wheels. I guess after couple of times it becomes as routine. I just wanted to make sure I didn’t screw anything up! Cause i installed almost everything lastnight. Sometimes I forget small things like locking scewers, closing brakes etc.
I use a Renn 575 to race on. I train on that same bike on Rolf Vector Pro wheels. I have to adjust the rear brake when I change wheels. I believe that this is because there is a difference in the width and/or angles of the rim surfaces of those different wheels. I also have to re-center my rearr caliper just a touch to ensure that my brake does not drag/rub. I have found that if the Renn disc is mounted properly, even though I have to adjust the rear brake caliper and centering, I do not have to do any adjusting to the shifting.
I use a Hed3 on the front to race on. I don’t notice a need for any brake adjustment on the front when I switch front wheels. The differences between these two wheels must be smaller than for the wheels on the rear. I still check to make sure the front brake caliper is centered properly and is not dragging when the wheels spins. This is a good habit to practice anytime you change any wheel, front or rear, or even if you just remove a wheel, like to fix a flat, and then return the same wheel to the dropouts. This helps ensure that you have mounted the wheel properly.
I have ridden the Renn disc for 2+ years now in all kinds of weather. For me, wheel choice on race day is a no brainer, the disc! Unless the cross winds are greater than 40 mph or there are significant climbs at grades of over 5%, all the research says the disc will be faster. So I ride the disc. The more you ride it and the broader the range of conditions you ride it in is, the more confident you will be when it is under you. Also, the faster you ride, the more stable the disc becomes. So go fast and quit worrying. Ride the disc! Ride the disc! Ride the disc! And when in doubt, ride the disc! You may think I’m trying to be funny, but that is not the case at all. Ride the disc!
The last weapon in your arsenal is the intimidation factor others experience when they see you with the disc. Until they discover otherwise, it means you are serious about your equipment choice and that you are probably serious competition as well.
Good luck. The Renn 575 is a great wheel, ride it and enjoy it.
I have ~6 different rear wheels that I switch between various bicycles and none need shifting adjustment. Look into cassette spacers, available in very thin widths, you should be able to change the spacing to eliminate the need for shifting adjustment. Brakes can usually be dialed in using the small lever that will widen or close the pads.
Well, not sure about the 5% comment. At the auburn half today, there are many many hills way over 5%. And, there were tons of folks with discs, 808’s in front and back, etc. Even though there may have been an issue, I saw a pro bike with a 808 in the front and a standard wheel in the back. Never seen that setup before.
I switch back and forth between Velomax Circuit, Zipp 404’s and a Hed Disc and never have to make adjustments. On the Disc I did go with a thin cassette spacer. I would check your spacers and you should be able to switch without having to make any adjustments. With the brakes it is a bit tighter with the Velomax’s and a touch looser with the Disc, but it works fine with both so I don’t even bother adjusting them.
I think it’s more of a cassette issue. One has Dura Ace the other has Ultegra cassette. I had Sram before but it was way off and I replaced it.
I have 10 spd D/A on my Velomax and Zipp’s and 10 spd Ultegra on my Disc with no problems when I switch wheels, so I don’t think it would be a cassette issue.
Here’s the link for the scientific analysis of the 5% thingie. Anyone who asks the question should do their own research and reach their own conclusions. As I indicated, “in my own experience…” One may decide to accept the cutting edge research on the subject or one can challenge it and conduct their “own” research as in I did this or that in my race even though so and so suggests that this would not have been the best choice for the conditions I raced under.
As for the 5% and the many hills steeper than 8%, short and steeper is not necessarily equal or greater/worse than long and 5%. Its not just the grade, but the length of the grade as well.
When one asks the question of others, it is generally assumed that one is in search of advice and the reasons why. To each, his own.
I don’t know about the disk or the first time excitement but my second lap (mile 35 to 70) was way faster then my first lap.
