I currently have a Cervelo Dual. I love this bike and it is my first real bike. I have had it for about 8 months now and since I started training for triathlons, I found out that I really, really enjoy cycling. I want to do some more road races. I’m thinking of getting a bike that is made for climbing (lightweight with a triple chainring) since I believe that it would be more versatile than a road bike with a double chainring. I live in an area where there are some hills so having this bike could come in handy.
Now, should I go ahead and get a bike that is made for climbing for my first road bike? Is this a good idea? If so, what are some good bikes out there? I’m pretty sure that I want to go with something with a carbon or titanium frame. I like my Dual, but there are some crappy roads in Austin and I want a smoother ride than an aluminum frame. I’m also going to be very patient about researching bikes for this purchase since I’m looking to spend about $2-3K on this bike.
I like compact frames for climbing although it’s probably just my imagination. Always thought my aluminium Giant TCR climbed like a billy goat so would imagine the same applies to the carbon version.
While I have not ridden it, I have heard from a few LBS sales people that the Orbea Orca is a good climber - and that makes sense judging by the short stays on it. Add in the fact that its carbon…meets your requirements except the cash.
I think that some of the Litespeeds are good climbers as well, but IANABSO (I am not a bike shop owner)
Personally, I’d consider a compact crank over a triple. But that is purely because I hate how triples look. Plus I can never get that front derailleur dialed in. IANABM either.
If you’ve only been at it for 8 months, I think you need to seriously think if you really want that triple. When I first started riding, I used the triple all the time, and I didn’t understand why someone would opt not to have it. But now I can’t imagine ever riding one again. I’ve ridden up some very steep and long hills (mountains), and I’ve never needed/wanted a chainring smaller than 39. I’m a better cyclist than a runner or swimmer, but I’m not super-strong or anything like that.
My Merckx Team SC is an awesome road bike for any purpose. It’s light and very stable, great for going up and coming back down.
What type of front end on the Dual? What seat angle do you ride the Dual?
If you have drop bars - I’d say to face the seatpost rearward - slide the seat back and you can ride about 74 degrees. Should make a fine road bike. Then you can wait a year or 2 to make a decision…
If you have bullhorns/bar-end shifters - then it is nice to have a road front end but I wouldn’t buy a “climbing” bike. Any road bike climbs fine - as do most tri bikes…just get a good all around road bike.
Triple vs. double is tough. You can get a 39 upfront and a rear cassette with a 25 or 27 and be fine in most situations. Compact is an option. Search old posts for all the pluses/minuses. I have a triple and its nice for 3000 ft climbs at an easy pace…but does create some shifting issues that are fairly mild…Compacts often give you a “poor chainline” at typical speeds. I like my triple - I like my compacts but they both have some drawbacks…
Buy extra cassettes to give you easier gears for climbing. A 21 rear vs. 25 is a big difference…
If you need a triple in any of the RR I have done, you are well off the back (except Patterson Pass, prolonged 16% climbing).
If you have a road front end, keep the bike and race that one. I raced on my CX bike for my first year and was in the top ten in most races. At lower levels of bike racing, equipment has very little advantages.
Ugggggggggggghhhhhhhhhh. It cracks me up when someone looks for something as specific as a climbing bike, or when someone will say that a particular frame “climbs like a billy goat.”
Jeez. It’s the legs, not the frame. Yeah, there are some exceptions (overly steep position, fit issues, etc), but in general any decent road bike will climb just fine. Lighter is better, but in your price range, everything is light enough and more than decent enough. Just pick a road bike that you like and that fits.
The Cervelo R2.5 Chorus comes in at $99 over your ceiling but get the crankset changed for a compact FSA by your local dealer and you are got to go for about the price of a pair of shoes over your price range. Got to be worth a look.
Well my two cents says get a Cervelo Super Prodigy. Light enough to climp with, relaxed enough for long mileage, and it’s steel so you can be comfortable all day long…
Ugggggggggggghhhhhhhhhh. It cracks me up when someone looks for something as specific as a climbing bike, or when someone will say that a particular frame “climbs like a billy goat.”
Jeez. It’s the legs, not the frame. Yeah, there are some exceptions (overly steep position, fit issues, etc), but in general any decent road bike will climb just fine. Lighter is better, but in your price range, everything is light enough and more than decent enough. Just pick a road bike that you like and that fits.
Go w/ a compact crank.
Hmmmm, so he should keep lugging a +20lb road bike up hills because it “cracks” some people up? That must be why all those pros use the exact same road bike on flat stages and mountain stages. Got news for you - it’s the legs AND the frame. Some bikes are built to deliver more punch on hills - simple as that. I dare you to climb with my 22 pound Zipp and it’s flexy back end.
The best “climbing bikes” will be similar to the best sprint bikes – very stiff. And while that’s good for climbing, if you’re a light person, you’ll get pretty beat up everywhere else.
Also, as to the triple, it depends on you. I’ve never used one on the road, and I’ve never felt like I needed it. I’ve used a low of 42x21 on some pretty extreme stuff with no problems, but I was also considered a pretty gifted climber. Others (on my racing team) suffered on the same hills with 39x25. Like some one else suggested, you might consider a compact instead.
Hmmmm, so he should keep lugging a +20lb road bike up hills because it “cracks” some people up? That must be why all those pros use the exact same road bike on flat stages and mountain stages. Got news for you - it’s the legs AND the frame. Some bikes are built to deliver more punch on hills - simple as that. I dare you to climb with my 22 pound Zipp and it’s flexy back end.
Huh? They ride the same bike? Since when? Hell, climbing is when you see more repaints with wrong brands than ever…I guess Lanced lighter downtube front shifter is just like his normal bike too? I know when I raced I have three bikes that I would ride depending on the course.
Ugggggggggggghhhhhhhhhh. It cracks me up when someone looks for something as specific as a climbing bike, or when someone will say that a particular frame “climbs like a billy goat.”
Jeez. It’s the legs, not the frame. Yeah, there are some exceptions (overly steep position, fit issues, etc), but in general any decent road bike will climb just fine. Lighter is better, but in your price range, everything is light enough and more than decent enough. Just pick a road bike that you like and that fits.
Go w/ a compact crank.
Hmmmm, so he should keep lugging a +20lb road bike up hills because it “cracks” some people up? That must be why all those pros use the exact same road bike on flat stages and mountain stages. Got news for you - it’s the legs AND the frame. Some bikes are built to deliver more punch on hills - simple as that. I dare you to climb with my 22 pound Zipp and it’s flexy back end.
Pay attention. I said there were exceptions. A bike like that is extreme, and an exception. Although the 20lbs is no problem at all.
Virtually any quality all around road bike will do just fine. Forget the pros; a tiny gain is worth a lot to them. Doubt our boy here cares about shaving 2 seconds off his local hill climb.
I ride a Cannondale R1000 and I wasn’t passed once on a climb at Wildflower but the same guys I was dusting on the way up came coasting by me on the way back down.
This leads me to believe that my bike climbs well, but doesn’t hold up quite so well on the downs and flats.
I agree with MtTamRnr. Kleins scream going uphill. Light and stiff made going up the Blue Ridge as easy as it could possibly be. Now going downhill is another matter; they aren’t the most stable bikes on the planet.
litherland
I ride a Cannondale R1000 and I wasn’t passed once on a climb at Wildflower but the same guys I was dusting on the way up came coasting by me on the way back down.
This leads me to believe that my bike climbs well, but doesn’t hold up quite so well on the downs and flats.
You guys are kidding, right? The frame has next to nothing to do with the descent speed (especially if people are flying by you). Your body shape and position DWARF the frame/wheels aero factor.
Stop blaming/crediting the machine, fellas. It’s YOU (with some exceptions from extreme bikes).