I currently need to get a new front brake and was thinking I could take the standard SRAM Red brake from my 2008 Felt DA and replace it with something a little more aero. I was thinking something along the lines of what Tom A. did with his P2, but the front cable hangar is a challenge.
SO, would it be easier to come up with a novel way to mount a center pull brake that can also incorporate a brake cable hangar? Or find another option that is more aerodynamic than a standard brake?
Any ideas would be appreciated. Pictures with better options would be excellent…
Maybe I need to add a qualifier… I would prefer something that is relatively easy to source. Spending my time looking for an old school hooker style brake is not something I would look forward too. Also, your stem mods are pretty impressive. Not sure I have that level of ability. If that is what it takes to save a couple of watts, it might not be worth it to me.
Is there anything that is available new that would work? Has anyone else attempted this on a bayonet fork bike?
I currently need to get a new front brake and was thinking I could take the standard SRAM Red brake from my 2008 Felt DA and replace it with something a little more aero. I was thinking something along the lines of what Tom A. did with his P2, but the front cable hangar is a challenge.
SO, would it be easier to come up with a novel way to mount a center pull brake that can also incorporate a brake cable hangar? Or find another option that is more aerodynamic than a standard brake?
Any ideas would be appreciated. Pictures with better options would be excellent…
Try sourcing a Tektro T726R and run it on the front (replace the mounting bolt like I did with the Oval). The “straddle cable” is built in…just figure out a place to drill a hole in the stem for the cable stop.
I was about to post some pics of the Egg on my B2 (08 model, same mould as your DA), but Tom’s saved me the time, thanks! I didn’t send a front on pic to Matt, but here’s one below. Fits nicely with the bayonet fork and I havn’t got a bad thing to say about the brakes performance. Upgraded the pads to SwissStop green and braking is excellent.
This is the John Cobb modification, but the how to pdf is no longer online.
HTH
I’ve got the pdf if anyone wants it.
On a side note however, I don’t recommend it. I tried it on two brakes (a tektro and a 105) and the full modification DOES NOT stop reliably enough for serious use in anything but the least technical of tt’s. Semi-modified (as in, cutting the top off, but leaving the cable pinch bolt - not cutting it off and tapping a screw) a-la David Millar’s Felt works considerably better, but at that point you haven’t really done a lot.
I give a +1 for the Simkins. It stops great once you figure out how to get it set up correctly. I can’t notice much difference in stopping power between it and my Dura Ace.
Working/talking with Matt was a pleasant experience as well.
Pretty sure that Tom’s testing found no discernible difference in aerodynamics between the centre pull and the Simkins brake. Having said that, I can’t imagine that the Egg brake is as aero as the Hooker set-up on the P4 - that’s sweet!! But… the Egg brake actually stops really well. How important braking performance is for you, only you can answer.
In your unbiased opinion, which option would most likely provide the smoothest aerodynamics:
Why are you asking for opinion, when I have actual data? (for the first 2, anyway) The first 2 options you have listed are basically tied according to my field testing.
simkins egg brake
center pull such as the Tektro with the cable going through the stem (not sure I can do this…)
Greg Steele (gregclimbs on ST) did this when using a Hooker brake mounted to the front of his DA. You might want to search for the pics of it and/or ask him…
center pull with the cable coming from the side of the stem and hung in some fashion above the center pull brake
This one is going to be slightly worse, due to the “extra bits” hanging out in the breeze…
Quick question Tom, with your P2 setup did you have the cable go through the stem? I thought you had a cable hangar in place of a spacer and therefore just brought the brake cable from the handlebars around the stem into the cable hangar. This is what I would be doing on the DA rather than going through the stem.
So, you have data showing the simkins egg brake as being better than a center pull with the cable not going through the stem? When I look at the two options I am stuck trying to eyeball what is better between the aero of the egg brake with the cable on the side, versus the center cable but the less aero caliper of a center pull.
I really appreciate everyone’s responses. The P4 with the hooker brake and the through stem cable looks great, but I definately want a more solid brake. Also not sure I want to run the cable through the stem. I will have to go back and look at my front end setup and see what that would do. I know I would need to relocate my computer. That might be easier than I am thinking though… Maybe drilling a hole in my stem is not that complicated…
I suppose that throws out one more question. Maybe Super Dave can chime in on the relative issues about drilling two small holes in the Felt DA stem to let the brake cables pass through… Shouldn’t be an issue should it?
I’ve had several brakes on the front of my P3.- Hooker, MRC, TRP and Simkins.
The Hooker looks the most aero. The MRC was a a bit big and flat. Neither worked great and were a pain in the ass to swap over from everyday wheels to race wheels. So I sold them.
The TRP was better in stopping performance.
The Simkins is the best in ease of use, swapping wheels and performance (short of a standard dual pivot brake). Pretty aero too.
If I had a dedicated race bike that I never had to travel with that always had race wheels on it, I would still have the Hookers. I choose the Simkins for the same reasons I have a P3 and not a P4. Very, very good performace, reliable race and training setup, easy to travel with, and dependable.
Quick question Tom, with your P2 setup did you have the cable go through the stem? I thought you had a cable hangar in place of a spacer and therefore just brought the brake cable from the handlebars around the stem into the cable hangar. This is what I would be doing on the DA rather than going through the stem.
Yes. I used a CX style cable stop under the stem. If you can pull that off on the DA, great…but, I thought the bayonet fork would preclude that route?
So, you have data showing the simkins egg brake as being better than a center pull with the cable not going through the stem? When I look at the two options I am stuck trying to eyeball what is better between the aero of the egg brake with the cable on the side, versus the center cable but the less aero caliper of a center pull.
No…the data I have is between the egg brake and my Tektro “modified” centerpull using the CX cable stop. As I said, they were basically tied. My speculation about the last configuration you asked about was just that…speculation.
That T726r is a pita to find. There was one on Ebay UK last week, sold for $80? Something like that. I’ve emailed Tektro asking about availability and they never replied.
The modification isnt too hard to make though to a standard Tektro centerpull brake as Tom did. I snagged a pair off of eBay last week for $27 shipped buy it now. Maybe I’ll convert them to a center pull and resell them?
and btw, not mentioned above but Gary has said that he had that stem custom made to include the brake cable stop.
There is a thread called “New Aero Brakes” that is like very long, that discusses such things as these.
Well, as far as how to get a cable stop on the Felt DA since I cannot use one of the CX style I had a couple ideas…
I found one that would bolt to the fork - it looks to me like it might be able to be setup so that it takes the place of a spacer on the brake mounting bolt, it is only $6 so trying it out would not set me back too much.
I found one for a rear brake that is made to hang as a seat collar - might be able to modify that to hang off of the stem; do not need to drill holes in the stem, can still place computer on the stem.
take a general CX version and modify it to be epoxied onto the front of the bayonet fork - I am sure there are some high strength epoxies/adhesives that I could find to utilize; least favorite option as it really is not as easily undone as the others.
As far as finding a center pull brake - looking for the tektro or an old Oval or TRP version. Also, there is the new Campy U stlye brake I have seen. So, I think I should be able to find one that can be used (I think - I have not spent any time actually looking to find one to purchase yet…).
Once again, thanks for the comments and ideas. I think this is a fun little low cost way to sneak a few extra watts out of my race setup. When I finish, I will throw up some pictures to see what everyone thinks of the before and after - was the effort worth it???
Also, there is the new Campy U stlye brake I have seen.
Aaah yes…the “Campy” rear brake has the straddle built in just like the T726R (in fact, it’s basically the same brake), so one *should *be able to mount it to a front fork after replacing the mounting bolt.
It’s funny, Slowman first wrote about the Campy TT stuff on April 1st, and after seeing the brakes and recognizing that they were actually Tektros, I thought his review was an “April Fool’s” joke…but then I saw the Campy stuff being reviewed elsewhere…
You can remount the front TRP aero brake on the front of the fork, but you have to drill another hole beneath the existing one otherwise it will foul the front tyre. Then it works fine. Fortunately I have guys at work with a machine shop who can do a really nice job of this kind of modification for me, as long as I give then enough beer afterwards. I will post photos tomorrow as my budget Leader 720TT build is now complete (minus the front hydration system).
You can remount the front TRP aero brake on the front of the fork, but you have to drill another hole beneath the existing one otherwise it will foul the front tyre. Then it works fine. Fortunately I have guys at work with a machine shop who can do a really nice job of this kind of modification for me, as long as I give then enough beer afterwards. I will post photos tomorrow as my budget Leader 720TT build is now complete (minus the front hydration system).
Or…you could just do as I did and use a “rear” brake (since the mounting hole to rim spacing is correct) and merely swap the shorter mounting bolt for the appropriate length hex head metric bolt. Works like a charm
The first 2 options you have listed are basically tied according to my field testing.