Just changed my first cassette. Does the nut on the outside need to be torqued or is it a self-tightening thing. (Shimano wheel if that matters)
If you changed the cassette, that means you used a cassette removal tool. Use that tool to tighten the cassette lockring until you feel resistance (make sure you don’t crossthread it), and then maybe turn it a little more. So to answer your question, it’s not a self-tightening lockring.
The lockrings on my cassettes (9sp SRAM, 10sp DA, 10sp Ult) all have a specific torque stated on them (I believe it is the same for all but can’t be certain). So…I would say use the torque wrench.
I hand thread and hand tighten then put the T-wrench to it with the park tool attachment for removing/tightening the lock ring.
Dave
In all my years of home wrenching, I’ve never bothered w/ a torque wrench on that particular application since it would require an extra bit to adapt to the cassette tool and it’s not that delicate a job anyway (my torque wrench is geared to lower settings like carbon bars & posts, etc, that are more prone to catastrophic failure). I pretty much just crank it about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn past the point at which the little teeth on the lockring begin to bite. I could go a little more, but not much; you want it pretty darn tight. I’ve had them loosen before and it will hose your shifting because the cogs will begin to have lateral play (not to mention that will badly chew the cassette body if it’s Alu instead of steel).
What is going on if I have play in the cassette when the lock ring seems tight?
I tried another cassette on the wheel and it cinched right down.
You either cross-threaded the lock ring or you are missing a spacer somewhere.
Is it a 10-speed da or ultegra cassette? Many of them require a small steel spacer behind the cassette.
Ult 10 12/27
Why would the other 12/25 cassette I tried not need the ring also? It worked fine
If I cross threaded why would the other cassette work ok?
If you cross-threaded it, you would know when you removed the lock ring. Hopefully the next time you installed, you put it on straight. All shimano 10sp cassettes have a thin steel spacer (washer) that goes on the hub before you put on the cassette. They are interchangeable if you lost one but have one from another cassette. Dont over tighten–there shouldn’t be any play in the cassette even with the lock ring hand-tightened.
Hope this helps.
I was pretty careful about cross threading as someone alerted that to me in an earlier post. I’m thinking I have a spacer issue but I’m not entirely sure how that happened.
Make sure your cassette has all these parts:
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/Dura-Ace/CS-7800/1Z80A_EN_v1_m56577569830605972.PDF
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You are my new best friend!!!
Picture tells a 1000 words. The little inside spacer didn’t make the transfer. Works perfectly now. Thanks!
You are my new best friend!!!
Picture tells a 1000 words. The little inside spacer didn’t make the transfer. Works perfectly now. Thanks!
they like to stick to the grease on the back side of the cassette.
Anytime. Since we are now "BFF"s, I’m having a BBQ at my house tonight…stop by and bring the misses.
I was pretty careful about cross threading as someone alerted that to me in an earlier post. I’m thinking I have a spacer issue but I’m not entirely sure how that happened.
What generally happens is that the grease and grime buildup helps the spacer stick to the recess in the carrier. I have removed cassettes from my wheels many times and if I dont see it I always know where to find it. It is very easy to forget about it and put away the old unit with the spacer still stuck to it.