So I have a di2 ultegra drivetrain from 2017 on a speedmax, did a decent job on cleaning and replacing chain and cassette during that time. Average hours a week would be around 6 with 40% indoors.
It still runs fine, but feels (subjective I know) slower then the sram red group that I have on my new roadbike. I was wondering what gains could be had from upgrading parts or even the whole groupset. Looking for any gains, even marginal.
Start with just replacing the pulley wheels and the bottom bracket. And see if that creates an impression of improvement.
Start with just replacing the pulley wheels and the bottom bracket. And see if that creates an impression of improvement.
Quite the expensive first step. How about just taking the chain off and spinning the crank? Does it spin a few rotations on its own? And is OP saying it “feels” slower on an indoor trainer?
Start with just replacing the pulley wheels and the bottom bracket. And see if that creates an impression of improvement.
Quite the expensive first step. How about just taking the chain off and spinning the crank? Does it spin a few rotations on its own? And is OP saying it “feels” slower on an indoor trainer?
Well that really depends on what’s there at the moment. Even dura ace pulleys are only about $30USD, and a ‘standard’ bottom bracket under $50. That said I would agree that starting with some no cost checks is the way to go. So certainly dropping the pulleys out and checking/ cleaning the bearings, lubing if bushed. Ditto the cassette, take it off, and give it a good clean.
Now not sure this is the right thread for a discussion on wax vs lube, but I am now a complete convert to waxing (Silca) on all my bikes - road, zwift-trainer, TT, and even MTB. It’s simple, clean and cuts down wear enormously.
Which then brings me to the next ‘check’. No point in putting new bearings in if the chain is worn and/or the cassette (even chainrings) are worn into wave shapes. Ideally do a check of the chain with a chain wear tool, or if you’ve had that chain on for a year then buy a couple of new ones, clean them well BEFORE waxing and then install one, keeping the other ready to swap on when you start noticing any noise from the other - normally 4-500km or so in the dry. So that gives you almost 1000km between needing to break out the crockpot and rewax.
Honestly though, there’s no ‘speed’ going to come from a new groupset compared to a maintained/cleaned old groupset. Indeed, from a pure friction perspective then older groupsets in theory are more mechanicaly efficient due to the width/chain alignment, cassette sizes. But this is deep in the weeds level and not something that you’d notice IRL.